This thread is open for everyone to post into about any comments/suggestions you have for this section/any specific threads.
This is a new one on me, I guess it all depends on the type of mud you are talking about, some of the worst situations I’ve witnessed have been from driving over what appeared to be dry solid ground only to find it was a thin crust that the weight of the vehicle penetrated to very wet, sticky and boggy conditions just below the surface.Disco said:When you get to 'MUD' here's what you need to do:-
If the mud can be walked over without breaking through, you’re in with a chance.
I have no knowledge of using chains in the mud and I’m uncertain how they could help as there is no hard under surface for them to grip/bite into like on snow or ice which is where they are more commonly used.Disco said:If you stand on the mud and sink in your boots or ‘welllingtons’ there’s no chance for the vehicle (install chains)!
I think this is where a separation needs to be made. Mud is a very generic term and in all honesty the very vast majority of my off roading is on mud, however very little involves mud holes or bog holes.Disco said:Basically, “If you can’t walk it – You can’t drive it”, unless your highly modified.
Reducing tyre pressure can help in ‘bottomless’ mud whereas it can make things worse when a hard surface is below the mud
Disco said:Check on foot, the depth of mud or water in the bog hole. Use a wading stick. It can be left in the mud to indicate danger spots such as, unseen large rocks, tree trunks, deep holes etc. Walk down one intended wheel track prodding the ground for depth, and then return down the other track.
As this is generic advice then maybe stating something more along the lines of “ensure you recovery line or rope is securely attached to your front recovery point”.Disco said:Set up recovery gear before hand. Attach winch cable to a point on the bumper that’s going to be easily accessible.
Disco said:There’s nothing worse than groping around under the mud looking for your winch cable or ‘D’ shackles.
Engage diff lock, and lockers (if fitted).
I agree too low a gear will not have sufficient wheel speed, but this is primarily talking in terms of mud holes on a level gradient. If you are driving in very muddy conditions but with other obstacles low range would be essential as high range would be almost impossible to use without stalling (manual transmission) and could also prove very dangerous and lack control of the vehicle.Disco said:Select appropriate gear, usually 2nd or 3rd high range depending on the depth of the mud. Too low a gear will dig the tires into the mud.
Only comment would be about the chains.Disco said:If forward travel is a must and the mud is over a long stretch, deflate the tyres to around 20 psi, otherwise, fit chains. Do not fit chains to deflated tyres.
Turning on the windshield wipers before plowing through a big mud puddle does help.
Disco said:As you get underway, STEADY POWER and MOMENTUM must not be lost.
Keep wheels in tracks of previous vehicles. If no previous tracks, travel on the crown of the road if possible. If the ruts become too deep, dig away one of the sides to help the wheel to drive out where straddling is a reasonable alternative. If beginning to get stuck, swing the wheel from side to side, this works just as well in reverse.
If the wheels begin to spin, ease off the throttle.
If stuck, try reversing immediately and stay in your own tyre ruts as these will be already somewhat compacted.
If there is an incline ahead, approach with more speed.
If the wheels on one side are higher, the lower wheels will generally have better traction, as they have more weight.
Disco said:Descending very steep muddy inclines use:- low range, 2nd gear, chains on (if carried).
Are the advised gears the correct way round?Disco said:Ascending steep muddy inclines use:- low range, 1st gear, diff lock on, lockers engaged (if fitted), chains on.
Much off roading involves such activities and is in many ways a mainstay of what off roading is, so they are usually a conscious intent and not an emergency. And under the correct conditions and driving styles lesser tyres can work very well.Disco said:Do not attempt these except in an emergency unless you have aggressive tyres.
Disco said:Use gentle steering inputs, as a heavy correction can cause the vehicle to slide.
When you have cleared the mud, check if any mud is caked onto the driveshaft or radiator. If there is, clean it off before driving home as it could throw the drive shaft out of balance causing damage or overheat the engine.
Cool I'll do thatrmuller said:If you are submitting a new topic [such as the recovery points], you can just click "New Thread" in this section and it will allow you to create a thread.. the thread will then go hidden under 'moderation' until we get a chance to review it and put it live.
The tow ball is actually the preferred recovery point for ALRC events who's regs conform to the MSA (Motorsport Association) who are the British representative of the FIA.p76rangie said:RECOVERY POINTS,
300BHP. I am not sure whether you are suggesting to use the actual tow ball as a recovery point. This is generally a no no as the recovery rope can slip off.
For RTV events this is one of the recommended options, personally I see them as only being secondary recovery points. But for a "normal" recovery they should be more than strong enough. A high speed snath recovery is a different matter entirly though.p76rangie said:Are the Jate Rings rated. Not sure about using a single bolt as a recovery point. Also not sure whether those mountings weldedon the chasis are designed for the stress of recovery.
Some good info, maybe one of the mods can add it to the thread.p76rangie said:Here most tow bars have a square hitch receiver design. That is the actual bit of metal that the tow ball goes on fits into a square hole and a pin honds it in place (Pictures below). The end of the snatch straps we use will fit into those receivers (when the tow point is not in there) and the pin holds the strap in there. This has proved to be a good recovery point. They also make devices that fit into these holes which are recovery points (pictires also below). You can also remove the tow ball from your tow bar and fit a shackle through it.
http://www.alrc.co.uk/new regulations/sectionb.htmALRC said:B.19. RECOVERY POINTS.
B.19.1. Adequate front and rear recovery attachments must be provided for recovery purposes in all events. Bumpers, tie-down rings, lifting rings or Range Rover / Discovery "tow fittings" are not adequate. Factory specification (or better) trailer hitches are acceptable. If a tow-ball is fitted, welding alone is insufficient - high tensile nuts and bolts must be used for attachment. If the recovery point is attached to a bumper, the bumper must be attached to the chassis with high tensile nuts and bolts. A clevis and pin fitting or pair of Land Rover chassis-shackles (not spring shackles) are recommended.