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First, a thank you to everyone that help my son and I with our six month odyssey in rebuilding the "free" land rover discovery 2 with a slipped 4 cylinder sleeve that my son was given.
We finally got the engine back into the carcass about 3 weeks ago, hooked everything up, and viola, it started right up with 55psi of oil pressure (my biggest concern).
Frankly I was amazed and thought that it would be my $3,000 car education investment in my son that we would then spend another 6 months trying to get to running before giving up and hauling it to the recycler. Needless to say a pleasant surprise.
Of me of little faith. After the break-in process -- 3 20 minute cycles of running the engine up and down between 2,000 and 2,500-3,000 rpm with a cool down period between each cycle -- we then ran it on local roads for about 200 miles to get continue with the variation in rpms, then took the plunge and drove it over 500 miles up and back from Austin to Dallas.
No leaks, no ticking or other unusual sounds so far, and we probably have about 1,5000 miles on it now.
We followed the rebuild procedure in the shop manual pretty much to the letter, replacing what they said to replace, e.g., rings, bearings, big end bearing bolts, head bolts, etc, and reusing what they didn't explicitly say to replace, e.g., crankshaft cap bolts, valves and springs, etc. The only thing we didn't replace that the manual explicitly said to replace were the 4 air injection adapters that go in the heads: after cleaning them in chemdip, I just didn't see any reason to replace them (someone tell me I was wrong here).
We also replaced those maintenance/troublesome items like the oil pump gear, timing sprockets and chain, etc. We exchanged the 195 thermostat for a 183 version (assuming the best $48 investment you can make) and didn't replace the water pump or serpentine belt as it was only a month or two old when the slipped sleeve happened.
One thing I wished someone had given me but which I had to create on my own was a comprehensive parts list of EVERYTHING needed to do this rebuild.
So as a small, small token of my appreciation for everyone help on this adventure, attached is the complete list of parts, any notes about what I used and why, where I sourced them from and what I paid. I wanted to post it as a native excel spreadsheet but it would only let me upload a zip (sorry).
All in, it cost me a just over $2,900 for all the parts for a complete slipped sleeve rebuild, with more than 60-65% of that being for machining alone. For reference, I also show my original estimate which was closer to $3,300 dollars. Most of the difference was reusing parts (especially the main cap bottom and side bolts) that I initially thought I would need to replace.
I hope this helps the next person who decides to take on a slipped sleeve rebuild.
We finally got the engine back into the carcass about 3 weeks ago, hooked everything up, and viola, it started right up with 55psi of oil pressure (my biggest concern).
Frankly I was amazed and thought that it would be my $3,000 car education investment in my son that we would then spend another 6 months trying to get to running before giving up and hauling it to the recycler. Needless to say a pleasant surprise.
Of me of little faith. After the break-in process -- 3 20 minute cycles of running the engine up and down between 2,000 and 2,500-3,000 rpm with a cool down period between each cycle -- we then ran it on local roads for about 200 miles to get continue with the variation in rpms, then took the plunge and drove it over 500 miles up and back from Austin to Dallas.
No leaks, no ticking or other unusual sounds so far, and we probably have about 1,5000 miles on it now.
We followed the rebuild procedure in the shop manual pretty much to the letter, replacing what they said to replace, e.g., rings, bearings, big end bearing bolts, head bolts, etc, and reusing what they didn't explicitly say to replace, e.g., crankshaft cap bolts, valves and springs, etc. The only thing we didn't replace that the manual explicitly said to replace were the 4 air injection adapters that go in the heads: after cleaning them in chemdip, I just didn't see any reason to replace them (someone tell me I was wrong here).
We also replaced those maintenance/troublesome items like the oil pump gear, timing sprockets and chain, etc. We exchanged the 195 thermostat for a 183 version (assuming the best $48 investment you can make) and didn't replace the water pump or serpentine belt as it was only a month or two old when the slipped sleeve happened.
One thing I wished someone had given me but which I had to create on my own was a comprehensive parts list of EVERYTHING needed to do this rebuild.
So as a small, small token of my appreciation for everyone help on this adventure, attached is the complete list of parts, any notes about what I used and why, where I sourced them from and what I paid. I wanted to post it as a native excel spreadsheet but it would only let me upload a zip (sorry).
All in, it cost me a just over $2,900 for all the parts for a complete slipped sleeve rebuild, with more than 60-65% of that being for machining alone. For reference, I also show my original estimate which was closer to $3,300 dollars. Most of the difference was reusing parts (especially the main cap bottom and side bolts) that I initially thought I would need to replace.
I hope this helps the next person who decides to take on a slipped sleeve rebuild.
