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I just purchased a 2004 disco that was a repo. So I was able to get this thing very cheap. You could tell it had not been taken care of at all, but after further inspection and cleaning the interior is spotless and the exterior was so so only had 1 dent in the back by the tail light. But after a trip to the salvage yard and a few dollars later i had all the plastic pieces that were missing and the exterior is like new now other than the center air intake moulding. Any ways when I got the vehicle before I ever moved it from the bank I knew it had a busted hose left side top. I repaired that and thought I just needed to throw some coolant in it bleed it and good as new.Instead I pour the coolant in and after a bottle I hear it just pouring(Not dripping ) pouring on the ground. The location of this is way in the back driver side I crawl underneith but the leak is too high for me to pinpoint and looking down from up top I can not pin point it since it is so far back. Needless to say it is undrivable because instant overheat because the leak is not a drip it is a pour. Ant ideas?? Everyone with the blown head gaskets seems like theirs just dripped some here and there and they still drove the vehicle. But this thing is crazy and to throw another curve ball the oil is not milky and their is no coolant or water in the oil.And yes I have drop it some I had to get it from the bank to my house.Any ideas would be great.thanks
 

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I just purchased a 2004 disco that was a repo. So I was able to get this thing very cheap. You could tell it had not been taken care of at all, but after further inspection and cleaning the interior is spotless and the exterior was so so only had 1 dent in the back by the tail light. But after a trip to the salvage yard and a few dollars later i had all the plastic pieces that were missing and the exterior is like new now other than the center air intake moulding. Any ways when I got the vehicle before I ever moved it from the bank I knew it had a busted hose left side top. I repaired that and thought I just needed to throw some coolant in it bleed it and good as new.Instead I pour the coolant in and after a bottle I hear it just pouring(Not dripping ) pouring on the ground. The location of this is way in the back driver side I crawl underneith but the leak is too high for me to pinpoint and looking down from up top I can not pin point it since it is so far back. Needless to say it is undrivable because instant overheat because the leak is not a drip it is a pour. Ant ideas?? Everyone with the blown head gaskets seems like theirs just dripped some here and there and they still drove the vehicle. But this thing is crazy and to throw another curve ball the oil is not milky and their is no coolant or water in the oil.And yes I have drop it some I had to get it from the bank to my house.Any ideas would be great.thanks
Firstly, the temperature gauge on the dash does not properly reflect the actual coolant temp at the engine. When the needle on the gauge begins moving from "normal" toward hot, the engine is already overheated. The needle only begins to move toward overheating in the neighborhood of 240 degrees. This is well-known amongst D2 owners and everyone uses an aftermarket gauge of some form or fashion.

You won't know how much damage there is to the block or cylinder heads until the heads are removed. It was probably overheated numerous times and to the point of massive cylinder head warpage or a major crack formed. Since you have no idea of this trucks history, you will be best off purchasing a rebuilt long block. In the end, everything on your current engine will need replacing anyway. The cyl heads, valve-train, oil pump gears/front engine cover, and engine block including the steel liners are very vulnerable, especially given overheating situations. The only D2s worth anything are those that still have a solid engine. Without that, the truck is scrap or good for parts given your critique. You will have to spend at least $5000 to get another reliable engine into it. Of course, you could work on what you have. Cyl heads can be replaced with a rebuilt set, but you will have to see if the block will hold pressure and most likely the sleeves have come loose, and the block will have to be bored over and fitted with top-hatted liners, and that's only if it isn't busted somewhere. Either way the block has to be gone over with a fine-tooth comb, just like the current cyl heads if you have a notion to rebuild what you have. Unless you are doing all of this work yourself, it's going to cost you the same as buying a whole new engine, you see? If you did any research you will quickly find that there is no way in hell that you can trust what you have and that its most likely toasted from top to bottom. You can always buy a used engine, but you have to pull the trigger on terms of reliability.
FYI, 2004 was the worst of the engines that LR ever manufactured. The tolerances during manufacture was an atrocity so much so that LR ended up calibrating a new lower-temp thermostat to try and circumvent all of the issues that they were having mostly due to high operating temps. They changed the design of the truck, the name (LR3), the engine, everything they could to get away from the D2 and never looked back.

Before you do anything you can remove the upper intake plenums and verify that all of the cylinder-head and lower intake bolts are torqued to spec. This is a DIY and doesn't cost anything. But given the '04s reputation, I wouldn't put a lot of stake in this as an easy fix.
 

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The first thing you need to do is find that leak. It is obviously not the head gasket because they do not leak like that; however, you may then find that you do have a blown head gasket or two.

Locate and fix the gross leak and then get a compression check. That will tell you what to do next.

Let us know what you find.
 

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I might be off here but; My 2007 LR3, about a month ago dumped all coolant without notice and almost overheated (I was parked with the engine on). I was worried it would be serious (spendy) but it turned out to be a broken "pressure valve", small plastic release thingy. I too tried at first to find the source of the leak but was unable to. The part was $19 and the labor charge was 30 minutes...

I decided to mention this as my coolant leak gave no clue about origin.
 
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