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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there-

A few days ago I noticed the Low Coolant message. Added up some Dex-Cool -- message went away. Next day, driving down the street, and I notice the Reduced Engine Performance come on -- lost power (couldn't go more than 10mph), and pulled over. Noticed white smoke coming out of the engine, and the coolant was very low.

I just had the vehicle towed to my Rover shop, and they won't be able to look at it until Monday AM.

I'm sitting here fretting over what the possible outcome is -- just wondering if anyone can provide some feedback as to what the problem could be.

Thanks
 

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As long as it was shut off before it got hot enough for damage to be caused from overheating, it shouldn't be too bad. There are a few very common coolant leak issues on these engines that are relatively minor when it comes to repair cost, usually worst case would be radiator, best case a sub $20 bleed valve.. Considering it did overheat, I would recommend replacing the t-stat housing as preventative at this point, along with repairing the initial leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Dave-

I appreciate the feedback. The coolant reservoir was not completely empty, but low. The car has been towed back to the shop. I went back many hours later. Added coolant to the reservoir. Started right up and no smoke, but the Reduced Engine Performance Light was on, and I could notice that there was definitely some loss of power. I didn't drive anywhere and immediately turned it off.

Given the notice of loss of power, what would be the worst case scenario?
 

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Loss of power, and reduced engine performance message are most likely due to the overheat, the PCM will go into a default mode to limit any damage that may be caused. These are more so symptoms and don't play much part in the problem itself.

Most common issue for that quick of a coolant loss is the bleed valve in the t-stat bypass hose. Easy and cheap. However, I would still recommend replacing the t-stat housing. It getting hot enough to trip limp-home mode, is hot enough to melt the plastic housing, which can cause plastic to go all throughout the system. Since you shut it down quickly, I wouldn't worry about that too much(I've seen them driven til they shut themselves off, and plastic gets into everything, coolant passages in the heads, radiator, oil cooler...) but still worth changing it to be sure. This is also a common leak source, where the plastic housing meets the heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got it. This is so helpful. When the LR3 goes into "Limp Home Mode" from the PCM due to overheating, is there no way to get it back into default mode without a computer? Is that why when I started it hours later it still felt like it was in limp mode?

I'm definitely going to replace the thermostat housing when this is sorted out. I was just hoping that it didn't overheat to the point where I warped the heads, or blew the head gasket.

Also, would this issue related to why the Heat in the LR3 hasn't been working?
 

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It throws a coolant temp sensor out of range fault, which is self healing once it sees a proper response from the sensor. So, if you were to do the leak repair yourself, and then start it up from cold and let it just idle til it gets to operating temperature, the fault would change from current to historical, and reduced engine performance would go away.

This is assuming that it is solely due to the temperature getting that hot, and nothing else was damaged, which I doubt there was based on the timeline.
 

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Heat uses coolant, so no/low coolant means no heat. See what they find with the leak, and I still recommend replacing the t-stat housing(not just the t-stat)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dave,

I just wanted to thank you for your help on this issue. You are a true Land Rover expert.

It indeed was the bleeder valve. I'm extremely impressed that you could correctly diagnose this over the internet. I've gone ahead and requested that they replace the thermostat housing as well, just as a preventative measure.

You are the man.
 

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Glad to be of help, and good to hear it was nice and simple.

If nothing else, think of replacing the t-stat housing as putting off having the P0128 fault that is pretty common on these for a couple of years.
 

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My LR3 coolant problem is a little different, I had the same issue with reduced engine performance and the LR3 (2006) was in run home mode. I lifted the hood and there was coolant everywhere, I got it home hosed down the engine and then looked for the problem, changed the water pump, changed all the hoes, repaired what looked like a leak on the face of one of the cylinder heads where the ABS manifold screws into the heads, I used gasket cement. Restarted the LR3 and ran it for 20 minutes before I had the same issue again, lifted the hood and saw coolant spraying out under pressure from the brass coolant temperature sensor that sit in the middle of that ABS manifold. As our LR3 has 200,000+ miles on the clock, and this is the first issue we've had with it, I decided to change the temperature sensor. I put a new one in, started the LR3 and the temperature stayed cold for the first 10 minutes of engine run, then it just shot of the gauge. I shut the engine down opened the hood and it was leaking again from the same place, and when I pushed the temperature sensor around it didn't seem tight, so I'm wondering if I need to change out that manifold.

I also suspected that I might have a leaking head gasket, my old Rover cars used to have this same issue and it was a leaking head gasket, but there's no oil in the coolant, and no coolant in the oil.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Thanks, Chris
 

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Very Old thread.

Perhaps post some pictures of where it is leaking from. And stop overheating it until you resolve the issue. If it is clearly overheating and leaking, what different result would you expect with a different temperature sensor?

Here is what we do know-- There are plastic couplings on about every radiator hose on the LR3.. Presumably you have changed them out, if not... that, along with the thermostat housing (the part the temp sensor is on) should be changed. There is also a line that runs under the manifold. That is the part with the plastic T connector on it. The "T" is know to give way.

At this stage, if you do not plan on doing the work yourself, take (or have it flat bedded) to a shop and let them evaluate it and disassemble before you warp the heads, or worse. If it's just a head gasket or something else, it could be fixed if you don't repeatedly overheat it.

By all means, post back and fill folks in, provide more information, ask more questions, etc.
 

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Dave:

I just had an induction/injection service done at Dealer. Sure enough, the check Engine light came on. I have read all your comments on this. Dealer suggests that I replace the catalytic converter to solve the problem. Spark plugs have not been changed. Do you think the catalytic converter needs to be changed?
 
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