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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I got her all cleaned up and got the expansion tank replaced as well as the throttle body heater plate. Runs good but a little smoke I have a video of it running will try to put it on here. THe only thing that is getting me now is I let it run outside the garage for almost and hour with no issues or leaks anywhere. If i can get the vidoe up you can see a couple thing I can concerned with. 1) The coolant in the expansion tank is bubbling but it is not boiling as if its super hot. The thermostat is staying right in the middle of the gauge. 2) The power steering fluid looks the same as if it boiling but do not have any steering issues.
The coolant leak was after I shut it down. I looked under and coolant was puddling underneath. I pulled it back into the garage and onto the ramps got under and found coolant coming from the very back of the engine. Any ideas where to look that it could be coming from. I will pick up a pressure tester tomorrow on the way home from work. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4nMMaWe0xhvQnQ1cnJJN1RwSWM/view?usp=sharing
Not sure how the upload or links work so will research a littel more and see what to do if the link is not working...
Thanks
Joe
 

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The coolant leaking at back of the engine is a head gasket leak 99% of the time. The combustion gas test of the coolant would not be accurate if the coolant is leaking at the water jacket to the outside and not into the back #7 or #8 cylinders.

The reservoirs are supposed to be bubbling like that because those are your return lines of the fluids circulating.

The biggest concern is your temperature gauge, especially if you have coolant leaks. The temperature gauge only works on 3-positions. For the gauge to move from "normal/medium" to overheating, the coolant has to reach 240 degrees, approximately. This compromises the reliability and integrity of your motor as you don't want coolant temps over 200 degrees. Most D2 owners & enthusiasts install an aftermarket temp gauge to monitor the temps so that action can be taken if the operating temp climbs or swings too much out of the norm. This is an all-aluminum power plant known for being poorly manufactured and suffers greatly from high coolant temp. The cylinder liners for the pistons can come loose and the block itself will develop cracks. Many, many owners have learned to invest in the cooling system, getting temps down to 180-190f to prevent catastrophic faults. You should be doing a search on coolant temp, aftermarket temp gauge, and head gasket leak, headgasket replacement, coolant leak back of engine and the like. Good luck and be careful. You can easily destroy the engine in your D2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Chibbs- Thanks I am looking at all the coolant leak threads now. This is my 5th Land Rover that I am working on. I could not pass up the opportunity for the price. Going to order a new theromostat and a scanner although I am sure I have one somewhere just moved back to va from dallas and still working on unpacking my garage and all my tools.
Glad to know that it is supposed to work like that. Where you able to see the video?
Why would it only leak when the engine is shut off? Ran for over almost an hour so I could check it out but never leaked until it was shut down.
Thanks
Joe
 

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The pressure test is always a good idea when you find coolant leaks, but getting a direct visual on an external cyl-head gasket leak at the rearmost water jacket is difficult. It may be possible to get a tiny mechanic mirror that rotates on an angle with a collapsible stick which you would place directly back there aiming at the head/block juncture. There is a small chance that the intake manifold can leak water at the very front water outlets and run down the valley pan to the back but this is rarely the case. It's possible to remove the belt guard and anything else to get a visual behind that main coolant outlet elbow and look for coolant on the valley pan. I had the same coolant leak as you are experiencing and just replaced the head gaskets over Xmas holiday. Buy an aftermarket gauge that will give you coolant temps in hard numbers so that you know exactly what you have. Cold, medium, hot especially on a gauge that doesn't show hot until 40-deg beyond what you should be warned doesn't help at all. But do investigate as though you have a water jacket coolant leak and plan on replacing the cyl head gaskets. Will cost you $500-$1000 for a DIY, $2500 for a tech/garage. The cyl heads have to be rebuilt (valves cut and seat-checked, stems replaced, pressure checked, decked for straightness) gasket and seal kit, new water pump and 180-degree thermostat at the least, fuel injectors spray-pattern tested or rebuilt, etc. invest the money now and build it properly or it won't hold up or you will have more problems than what you started with. nobody wants to spend that kind of time and money on a top-end rebuild only to crank it up to a "check engine light" & fault codes haha.
 

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I saw the video, nothing appears to be out of sort. The coolant leaks whenever the engine has been up to 200 degrees then begins to cool down after it has been shut off; law of expanding/contracting metals and such. Mine was the same way. When the leak very first started, I actually lay underneath for 30 minutes while the engine ran looking up the firewall for leak and never saw it. Shut it off and 30 mins later coolant dropped on the ground. I could see where it leaked, but couldn't catch it in action. you owned that many Rovers and never had a head gasket leak on the water jacket?? Supposedly all of them need head gaskets after 100K miles. Mine was right on time; no blowout or anything obvious, just a little spot washed out where the factory bead of sealant is placed on the head gasket. Obviously doesn't take much to let the water by to the outside world. I rebuilt mine with ARP head studs instead of the factory TTY head bolts. A lot of people have started using the studs. Also get a cleaning tap to go over all the threads and blow them out with air so everything is clean and dry. I got parts for the head gaskets replace from people who damaged the threads with TTY bolts attempting their own DIY HG replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The pressure test is always a good idea when you find coolant leaks, but getting a direct visual on an external cyl-head gasket leak at the rearmost water jacket is difficult. It may be possible to get a tiny mechanic mirror that rotates on an angle with a collapsible stick which you would place directly back there aiming at the head/block juncture. There is a small chance that the intake manifold can leak water at the very front water outlets and run down the valley pan to the back but this is rarely the case. It's possible to remove the belt guard and anything else to get a visual behind that main coolant outlet elbow and look for coolant on the valley pan. I had the same coolant leak as you are experiencing and just replaced the head gaskets over Xmas holiday. Buy an aftermarket gauge that will give you coolant temps in hard numbers so that you know exactly what you have. Cold, medium, hot especially on a gauge that doesn't show hot until 40-deg beyond what you should be warned doesn't help at all. But do investigate as though you have a water jacket coolant leak and plan on replacing the cyl head gaskets. Will cost you $500-$1000 for a DIY, $2500 for a tech/garage. The cyl heads have to be rebuilt (valves cut and seat-checked, stems replaced, pressure checked, decked for straightness) gasket and seal kit, new water pump and 180-degree thermostat at the least, fuel injectors spray-pattern tested or rebuilt, etc. invest the money now and build it properly or it won't hold up or you will have more problems than what you started with. nobody wants to spend that kind of time and money on a top-end rebuild only to crank it up to a "check engine light" & fault codes haha.
Researching scanners now not sure which one is the right one. Like I said I have one some where it connect to my phone for the display and gives real time info. I was fortunate to get this one for 1k and dont mind throwing money at it since i dont have much in it yet. Is in really good shape and I found a donor and Pull a part actually two that I can rob for some parts when I need them. I could not find any blinker fluid so I had to grad a couple new blinkers from there...See the pic/... https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4nMMaWe0xhvSVhtalpGWlV6SUk/view?usp=sharing

The difference in this one and the last 4 i threw money at I have no plans to get rid of this one for a very long time and by then I will have too much in it to get anything out of it worthwhile. Thanks
JOe
 

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Which year model is your D2? Have you noticed any tapping or clacking noises when the engine gets to full operating temperature??
Since you plan to keep this one there are a few suggestions I can send your way.
1) you mentioned replacing the thermostat; only buy the 180-deg made by LR. AkA "warm or tropical climate" model. It's usually gray or black and used to be/still is marketed for the TD5 but LR changed it to include the V8 as well. The old 1 allows the engine to operate at 205-ish which they finally found to be much too high. Water pumps fail regularly so replace it with a name brand unit when you do the Tstat. don't get a cheap one. Im on the 3rd w/p in 1.5 years. I noticed you have the green ethylene antifreeze; from what I have found the red DexCool recommended in the manual is corrosive. I had to replace the upper/lower assemblies, the w/p and tank 1-month after i bought it. Everything failed at the same time, just about so if you have the cash flow, just replace everything or you will be like I was that time...stopped @ a major intersection, happy as lark with my new water pump, lower hose assy and tank then I see steam coming out of the hood. Pulled into the store after light turns green, temp gauge finally starting to move and found the upper hose assy busted at the Tee. That red coolant corroded everything from the inside. The factory fan doesn't pull enough air so replace that with a Heavy Duty fan clutch. Most big box retailers have an aftermarket HD unit made by Hayden or Import Direct (Oreillys) and will keep coolant temps more consistent at idle, city/traffic driving. Back Flush the engine & heater core before doing the radiator really well. Get a sprayer nozzle and while the fan is off, shoot the radiator fins from the inside of engine bay; make sure it's clean between the radiator and condensor too. I have dropped operating temp a few deg just by cleaning the system inside and out. You want the temps between 180-190 and it's really all that you can do to get it there, so starting fresh with everything new is mandatory. A healthy cooling system is key to reliability and longevity of these Rover V8s. If you ever get obsessive about it, you can switch over to an online thermostat modification that works a lot better than the factory design with that extra bypass loop in the upper coolant hose section. Decide what you want to do on that before buying another Tstat because most will switch over if they are keeping the truck for the long haul. Finally, an ECU tune/reprogram will really put it over the top. A couple of co.'s have really figured out what they are doing there. Lower coolant & combustion temps, economical fuel consumption, more HP, and cutting the power when shifting into Reverse as the D2 is bad about a "CLANKK" over time and wearing the driveline out.

So start with the cooling system then start looking into this:

http://www.landroversonly.com/#/topics/45362?_k=71b99c

http://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/major-service-29020/

http://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/full-power-steering-flush-disco-2-a-82162/

These trucks are just so unreliable and the parts poorly manufactured, at 100K they just start falling apart 1-thing after another. I have replaced everything on mine. I highly suggest you do the power steering pump ASAP too. Mine started whining and the flush didn't help; there was a ton of contaminant stuck to the filter on bottom of reservoir including black from hose/seals & some shiny metal flakes too. Better to be proactive on everything because replacement parts are so expensive, or at least it adds up when you are having to fix something every week. Better to just invest $150 up front on fluids than $1000 on parts over a year. Because they WILL fail.

Then you get to the steering bars. New track rod and drag link tightens up the feel; Look for a HD set with greasable ball joints. If the tracking is still off, like the truck shimmys and even makes a noise when hitting bumps/ridges in the road, especially can be felt driving over RR tracks, then the main Upper & Lower ball-joints of the front knuckles have to be replaced. A new set of those will have the truck handling like brand new. Rebuild or replace the front and back driveshafts with greasable Ujoints: the factory units are not greasable and often destroy the transmission by busting a hole in it when the front 1 goes out.

The links will tell you everything else that needs to be done.

I suggest that you do everything prescribed, perhaps at least 1-2 items each week. Like I said, after 100K miles everything goes out or is nearly worn out anyway. There's more but all of this will probably keep your truck on the road, off of a flatbed. If and when you decide or have to replace the cylinder head gaskets, also replace the oil-pump, timing chain/sprockets and oil seal simultaneously. It's preventative maintenance. The oil pressure gauge and warning lamp is identical to coolant: once its there, it's too late. You don't want to overheat and you don't want to lose oil pressure and neither gauge will help, just tell you that it's already happened.

I'm just sharing with you in this post that took me months of reading and research to find for myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks that is alot and I appreciate it. I will update as I go that is pretty much what I have done to the other 4 I owned. Got lots of help from PT and Disco Mike for the others.
Mine is a 2002 and has 120k on it. The powersteering was whinng a bit when it was first started but it sat up for almost 3 years added some fluid to it and cut it out for the most part. Just have to budget in the parts as I go.
Got new ball joints coming and brakes to take care of those really quick and go from there on the list. Got some feel good look good stuff to work on while i wait for parts to throw at it. Headliner, visors and arm rest are going True timber Camo...LOL ordered the headliner fabric last night..New tires right after the brakes and gonna pic up a camera from HF since they are on sale to see if I can find the leak on the back of the engine bc it will drive me crazy. HEading out to find my odb sensor in the Manrage as well got to get those real time temps and pressures.
Thanks
Joe
 

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You know more about these trucks than you let on!
I'm no mechanic, but like I mentioned before, I have spent a lot of time browsing, reading, researching, addressing a lot of the anamolies specific to the model. Have had everything that can go wrong or fail and repaired myself so Im here to offer any suggestions or help that I can. I won't BS you if it's something that I don't know or not familiar with. Private message me any time. And I just did the head gasket replace as well so if you have any questions about that or your coolant leak I can surely be of assistance. Wish you the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I have had a few of them...Been using this site since 2012 i think yep that is what the tag says...I was wondering about that thermostat you put in your thoug. I was reading about a modification for it and I saw one on amazon that is inline and not in the waterpump housing. Just wondering what you have there. I sent you a message about it so if you get a chance take a pic for me so I can see what you did.
THanks
Joe
 

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I found some pictures from my setup.
 

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The factory fan doesn't pull enough air so replace that with a Heavy Duty fan clutch. Most big box retailers have an aftermarket HD unit made by Hayden or Import Direct (Oreillys) and will keep coolant temps more consistent at idle, city/traffic driving. Back
The Chevy S-10/Blazer/Astro fan (Non AC) is a direct fit with a little shroud alignment work. Dirt cheap and pulls a ton of air.
 

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My guess would be a failed head bolt. I've seen three this year where the left side lower bolt all the way to the rear has failed. All three had head gaskets done previously. Unless you drop the mounts, it's very difficult to get an accurate turn on the TTY fasteners in that location. My guess is that whoever did them figured "good enough". It wasn't.

The "only leaks when shut off" is a bit baffling though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My guess would be a failed head bolt. I've seen three this year where the left side lower bolt all the way to the rear has failed. All three had head gaskets done previously. Unless you drop the mounts, it's very difficult to get an accurate turn on the TTY fasteners in that location. My guess is that whoever did them figured "good enough". It wasn't.

The "only leaks when shut off" is a bit baffling though.
I will take a video of it running for a while and show that there is no leak and then do another when i shut it down and it leaks,,,,,
Joe
 

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My guess would be a failed head bolt. I've seen three this year where the left side lower bolt all the way to the rear has failed. All three had head gaskets done previously. Unless you drop the mounts, it's very difficult to get an accurate turn on the TTY fasteners in that location. My guess is that whoever did them figured "good enough". It wasn't.

The "only leaks when shut off" is a bit baffling though.
I would think a slightly compromised gasket before a head bolt. Some of them don't blow out. All I could find on mine was a little spot washed out on the factory red sealant designed into the gasket @ the back water jacket opening. That stupid gasket not once leaked while the engine ran. Not only that, it would go weeks & months without leaking at all then just reappear 1 day.
 

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My Rover experience is much more limited than my total engine building experience, but it doesn't take an expert to notice that the water jacket openings in these blocks are awfully close to the deck shoulder.

A tip I picked up long ago was that when disassembling an engine, always do the critical fasteners with a torque wrench. Since adopting this practice, I have found that in virtually every incidence of a head gasket failure on a passenger vehicle, I've found that the bolts adjacent to the failure to have less torque. Specific to the Rover, it's been every time. Once I had two bolts fractured right at the deck- the head and a portion of shank were just sitting in the hole. Maybe it's a chicken and egg situation- the head gasket failure caused the clearance to change.

This probably doesn't help the OP but maybe it's food for thought. I'd suggest measuring the break-free torque when pulling the heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I got a couple videos that I will put up later tonight when I get the chance. When I started up this am to go to Pick a part ( MY new favorite place) I took a video after I started the Disco up no leak and the reservoir is full of coolant. Drove 14 miles to the yard and took another video of it running no leak....Shut it down to video the leak and wouldnt you know it no leak. Pulled a couple parts off the donors there and drove back home to pick up new brake pads and more fluid, then to wal-mart for oil for a oil change and again everytime I shut down i look under and there is no leak. I get home and there is a bit of fluid dripping but I think it was the puddle I went through to get in my driveway...ANyway I am not seeing any leaks right now but will keep looking and post video when it happen. Must be one of those PFM things right now....
What I did today...
1) New Brakes all around waiting for wife to get home to help bleed them down.
2) Oil Change with New K&N filter and T6 oil...SOunds better already.
That is about it. Have new thermostat and water pump supposed to arrive tomorrow.
Next up is the upper and lower ball joints and picking up that camera to find the leak when it ever comes back along with the SCANGAGE..
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I would stop driving it if I were you. It will likely get worse. And when it does, it goes quick. The rover doesn't have a temperature gauge. It's a Replace Engine Indicator.
Oh I know...it was not losing coolant and no leaks at any time so I am good. GOing back to Yard on monday to pull the heads off the donors and get them to the machine shop and order the gaskets sets so i have spares when/if it decides to go. I ordered the gages since I cannot for the life of me find my others one I had....Has to be in a box somewhere with the rest of my tools I cannot find. Any idea how hard it is to work on these things and not have the right tools handy,....So my daughter has the bug as well and is on the lookout for another DIsco since she traded hers last year when I was living in Dallas and could not be here to help work on it. SInce we are back in Va she is itching to find one.
Anyone know of a Indy shop in Hampton Roads area? Just in case I need something.
Thanks
Joe
 
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