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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I changed my water pump a couple months ago and just today I noticed leaking coolant. Form what I can see, it's not coming from a hose although I'll have to take the fan off probably to see. Question is if it is leaking from the pump seal, what would you recommend? Take off and try using more halomar?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
One more question. Is it usually easy to see where the seal has failed and where the leak is coming from or should I warm up the engine to force it to start freshly leaking prior to removing the fan for inspection?
 

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Don't remove the fan and run the engine. Try to diagnose it with the fan installed. It's not worth the potential overheating. Are you sure the leak is coming from the water pump and not the head gaskets? If it is the pump, the only fix is the replace the gasket and, like you said, use some RTV sparingly to ensure the leak doesn't come back. It's also very important to follow the installation procedure outlined in the RAVE manual - follow the bolt order and make sure you torque them down correctly. If some bolts are tighter than others it could cause the pump to sit askew on the block, creating some gaps that could cause the coolant to leak.

If the leak comes back after proper installation, I'd test the system for hydrocarbons and overpressurizing. Exhaust in the coolant system can cause the pressure to spike and the coolant will look for the easiest possible exit, frequently the water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks.

When I replaced the pump, I tightened down the bolts in a cross patter, similar to bolting on a wheel to try and get everything bolted down evenly. I receded the rav and I can't find where it talks about a bolt pattern for installing the pump. It just says to reinstall the bolts. If I'm missing something, please let me know.

I'm not sure it's the pump but I do not think its the head gasket. The leak seems to be coming from the right side of the pump which is totally blocked from sight by the fan. The other possibility might be that the outlet hose is leaking from the pump attachment point. I guess I'm just going to have to remove the fan and inspect the thing. Hopefully it is clear where the leak is coming from.

If I'm on the wrong track here, please let me know. Thanks!
 

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Drive somewhere, get groceries or whatever, drive home, put groceries away, then take your fan off and inspect while engine is warm. It could be a hose, or gasket, but its unlikely to be your pump if you just replaced it with formagasket and all. my truck was leaking from the throttle body heating plate, check that out also, its very common in rovers, it normally leaks on the driver's side valve cover, makes a pool of coolant up there, and then finds its way down to the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good thought about the heating plate. This would have been easy to fix but unfortunatley it's not the problem. I'll need to get the fan off (hopefully tomorrow) and take a look at the right side of the water pump. From the looks of things, this is where it has to be leaking unless there is a bad hose or something somewhere and the coolant is just traveling along to that area.

If it is my water pump gasket leaking, which it looks like it is, what in the heck did I do wrong the first time? I want to make sure and not do it wrong again. I will say that getting the old gasket off was really hard. I ended up having to use a metal scraper. I tried to be easy on the block so hopefully I have not scored it to the point of leaking. I did use a very small amount of hylomar so I wouldnt' think there would be any leaking. If I likely did something wrong the first time. what would it have been?

Thanks,
 

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Did you use thread sealant on the three longer water pump bolts that have the larger heads? They go through a coolant passage and will leak if sealant is not used, mimicking a gasket leak.

If you need to go back and add thread sealant there's no need to remove the pump and gasket. Just remove the three bolts one at a time, add a thin layer of sealant, and replace, torquing to the spec. This happened to a friend a few months ago and that's how he addressed the problem. No trouble since then.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you use thread sealant on the three longer water pump bolts that have the larger heads? They go through a coolant passage and will leak if sealant is not used, mimicking a gasket leak.

If you need to go back and add thread sealant there's no need to remove the pump and gasket. Just remove the three bolts one at a time, add a thin layer of sealant, and replace, torquing to the spec. This happened to a friend a few months ago and that's how he addressed the problem. No trouble since then.


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Great Idea!! I did not use thread sealant. Hopefully I can get the fan off tonight and take a look. It would be an easy fix if the leak is simply coming from one of the long bolts instead of the gasket.

Would hylomar make a good thread sealant or is this a specific product I need to pick up?
 

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Ah, no thread sealant that could be the culprit. When I did my water pump about two months ago I GENEROUSLY put forma-gasket on each bolt and on both sides of the gasket. I used Permatex Ultra Black Hi Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker. You can buy a tube of it at AutoZone, or an entire caulking looking bottle for like 19$, I bought the larger one because I was also doing the oil pan gasket and oil pump/timing cover along with the water pump! I would wear gloves if your going to take this route; this stuff is messy! I did use a lot though on the water pump so I'd suggest buying two tubes or getting the larger bottle.

Hope it all works for you.
Dane.
 

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There is a specific thread sealant and that's what my friend used. You can buy it in a tiny tube about half the size of a travel tube of toothpaste. That's what I would use also, but from what Dane! reports it sounds like other products like RTV or Hylomar will work okay too.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys.

With RTV/Hylomar/Thread Sealant, is it necessary that the area needs to be dry? I would imagine that it's going to be hard to totally get all the coolant out of the bolt hole so it's absolutely dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Took my fan off last night and really couldn't tell exactly where the leak is coming from. It's not coming from the bolts. Due to the dirt, I couldn't feel where the leak is coming but it looks like it is probably from the bottom right side of the water pump where you can't see. The coolant appears to be running down the block from that area. Anyway, I using some engine cleaner to wash things up a little and will check after work by warming up the engine and then taking the fan back off to have a look.

I can't think of where else the leak could be coming from other than the pump seal but we shall see. If it is the pump seal, I don't know what else to do but order another gasket and use more hylomar this time.
 

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Save a lot of time and do a coolant pressure test, this will always show a leak. You may have a head gasket leak, a front cover leak , a bad reseal at the pump or a failing hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Mike. I'm guessing that I need to make an appointment at my local shop to get this done. No Land Rover Indy's in the area so it will just be the local guys that service my GMC. Anything special they should know or that I should pass along in doing the preassure test?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, I took the rover to a shop and had the coolant pressure tested as Mike suggested. It turns out the leak is coming from the timing cover gasket. The shop is quoting $540 is parts and labor to fix this. Obviously, I'd rather do the job myself if I can.

So, is this a difficult job requiring specialized tools and lots of skill? Or is this something a novice with a willing to learn could reasonably do? How long does this job take and what does it entail?

Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I took a look at the RAV and it doesn't appear to be a real complicated job. I'm at 120k for mileage so I'm thinking this might be a good time to do new oil gears and timing chain. The most complicated thing I've done is change the water pump. Is this project going to be way over my head?
 

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I did it, you have to remove you water pump you just put in though. I suggest getting timing gears along with the chain, it's a long job, took me roughly 9 hours,because you have to drop the oil pan to remove the pump. I spent arpund 300$ for oil pan gasket, timing gears and chain, oil pressure sensor, oil pump rebuild kit from bputah and an aftermarket water pump. I cleaned the living hell out if everything also, the pan, oil pump intake line, timing cover, etc.
if you follow the instructions on the race you should be fine, or get the DIY manual.
 

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Also, the timing cover gasket? From what I remember, I don't recall having coolant running over the timing cover, that's oil running through that, I think it's your water pump gasket, it's directly above the timing cover. I'm going to check my engine to confirm.
 
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