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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So in my 200 D2 I've been noticing that coolant has been dropping quickly. Say in the past 2 weeks, Ive had to top it off twice. I checked my oil today and surprisingly im low on oil?? I changed my oil 1,400 miles ago. No engine light is on and I cant find any leak. What should I start doing or be looking for? Here is a little background info it that helps.

Coolant; Dexcool 50/50 mix
Oil: Castrol Full Syn 10W-40
K&N oil filter

I'll answer any questions. No phone calls please. Thanks
 

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Check ALL lines on the cooling system. Look for white crystallized spots on/near all coolant lines. Also, get rid of dexcool, its not good for the rover v8.

As for the oil, the trucks leak in quite a few places. Scrub the engine down the best you can and clean gunk so you can find where the leak originates. The most common would be your valve covers, Id find a 12point 1/4'' Drive 8mm long socket and tighten down your valve covers. Another common leak is from your front crank seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good plan, how tight should I tighten the valve covers? And what should I replace with the dexcool? I was told that by owners that its what you should use for Rovers.
 

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Dexcool is thought to be a contributing cause to head gasket failures in the rover v8's. I use Valvoline Zerek G-05 (Found at pepboys) and a bottle of Redline Water Wetter.

Factory torque spec is 6ft-lbs for the valve covers, Id suggest torqueing to 10ft-lbs every oil change, the socket is hard to find in that size, and I bought mine on amazon for a few bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just wondering, what does Dexcool do to the engine? If it's bad, why do owners choose it? I'll give that Valvoline Zerek a shot. Means I gotta do another coolant flush. Damn. What all makes Valvoline better? And what does Red Line Water Wetter do as well?

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The majority of Rover owners use Peak, but any of the green type coolants is great. Also buy a new 180 degree t/stat before you flush the system and use only distilled water when doing the flush.
 

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Dexcool turns into acid supposedly after a few thousand miles. I use valvoline's because its high quality coolant, highly rated. Water wetter decreases surface tension, which means you have more contact within the engine, allowing for a better transfer of heat from the block into the coolant, but It won't decrease operating coolant temps because we have a thermostat, just a minor increase in efficiency.
 

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Forget what these guys are telling you. Dexcool IS recommended and is just fine as long as it's changed at least every other year. The problem occurs when it's neglected. Also, forget the water-wetter. It's greatest benefit is for 100% water cooled applications. You have bigger problems than a leaking valve cover or seal if your losing coolant/oil at that rate and it's not dripping onto the ground.
Check your exhaust. Steam?, Smoke?. Is the engine running abnormally?
 

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http://www.topclassactions.com/laws...ish-paying-dex-cool-class-action-settlements/


http://www.dexcoolsettlement.com

Link to pics

http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/dex-cool_pics.htm

I've seen first hand evidence of this damage in some newer vehicles less than 5yrs old with these same problems. The problem is if it breaks down chemically or exposed to certain metals and plastics or air. These pics happen very quick and can result in even trashing a block.

Say whatever opinion is wanted. Legally proven you should stay away from dexcool...

Some claim the newer versions don't react this violently. But I don't wanna take a chance. Google it and see what pops up....

I also agree concentrate on finding the leak...throttle body heater, expansion tank. The back side of the heads are notorious for leaking or the valley pan gasket also leaks back there...almost unnoticeably drips down the back on to the exhaust and burns off. All hoses and connections. Pressure test it and stare at it with a good flashlight.
 

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GM to Finish Paying Dex-Cool Class Action Settlements


Dex Cool Litigation Website

Link to pics

Dexcool Pictures

I've seen first hand evidence of this damage in some newer vehicles less than 5yrs old with these same problems. The problem is if it breaks down chemically or exposed to certain metals and plastics or air. These pics happen very quick and can result in even trashing a block.

Say whatever opinion is wanted. Legally proven you should stay away from dexcool...

Some claim the newer versions don't react this violently. But I don't wanna take a chance. Google it and see what pops up....

I also agree concentrate on finding the leak...throttle body heater, expansion tank. The back side of the heads are notorious for leaking or the valley pan gasket also leaks back there...almost unnoticeably drips down the back on to the exhaust and burns off. All hoses and connections. Pressure test it and stare at it with a good flashlight.
If YOU Google it, you will find that Dexcool in and of itself is just fine, as long as it is maintained and used in a sealed system. The engine and it's associated seals/gaskets must also be compatible with the coolant. GM issues aside, I have yet to see any PROVEN evidence that LR head gasket failures are caused by the proper use of Dexcool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Everybody relax, lol. Sadly today I was having a little fun in the mud and.... my Rover died. She is acting like I blew a head gasket but I scan the codes and they don't tell me blown head gasket. Instead they tell me my battery is under 9V and my MAF is dirty. Sooooo I'm going to have to tear apart the engine and figure out what the hell happened.

On the Dexcool subject. I have looked at some of my coolant pipes and they ARE full of that orange gunk and rust. I dont like that and believe that it could cause future damage.

Back to the original problem of the leaks, I guess I will find them with the engine half apart. Ill test the lines, connections, and any gaskets. Maybe loosing the much oil and coolant was a sign that my head gaskets were going to go soon????
 

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I would chase down the impending codes before tearing it all apart. Did you verify the battery was low or going bad. If it is it could have caused the maf error. Just trying to narrow it down. Its gonna make you mad to tear it apart then throw it all back an still have the same problem or even worst a new problem from assembly coupled with the already pending ones will run you in circles.
 

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P0102 & P1884 are both MAF related, the other one P1562 is a transmission fault, but I'm sure it's because of your low voltage. Get your alternator tested to make sure it's working properly, then if it it is, get a battery. You can try cleaning your MAF, but it's a hit or miss and you may have to buy one.

You would have a misfire code if you blew a headgasket as you said, it's just an electrical problem.

Dane.
 

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I had a quart of oil missing on my last oil change, it drips a little in my driveway, because it's cold, but when I'm driving, the oil pressure increases, oil will get thinner as temp increases and it'll leak more. Check your oil frequently until you find and fix the leak. If your really concerned about a headgasket, get the kit that tests for carbon in your cooling system. If there is traces of carbon in your coolant than you may have a headgasket leak.
 

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Id find the leak in your coolant first. I'm sure its a pinhole leak somewhere. Look for crystalized spots on and near cooling lines, they will lead to your leak. Just trace every line from your expansion tank. If you don't find anything, do the carbon test for good measure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update: So far I've ruled out a blown head gasket. Checked my plugs and they are clean. But they are dirty and some even broke. Replacing them with NGKs. As well as changing the oil/filter/ and air filter. I think the the MAF fried out. Ordered a Bosch one.

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