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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I have a 2000 Disco 2 with about 150,000 miles on it. I had a HG replacement about 1 yr ago, the entire coolant system is new (rad, T/Stat, hoses, water pump). Now here is my problem. A year ago I started having problems where my fluid was inexplicably getting lower. But I didnt have any of the tell tale signs of a HG failure. So I replaced the entire cooling system (which i figured it probably needed anyway). Anyway, that didnt fix my problem at all. So i took it to a shop and they said a HG failure. Which I decided was probably appropriate consdering how much you hear that. Anyway, got the HG replaced, and when the HG was removed there was no obvious sign of failure, in fact it looked pretty damn good. Anyway, it seemed that my problem was gone, however I didnt get to drive it much as I am gone more often than not. So I get back from a trip a week ago and start up my car and plumes of white smoke come out, no odd odor that i noticed. And it does this everytime I start my car until she is warm (around 170). And I am also losing a little coolant at what seems to be an average pace for actual running time (its about 1/4 of the coolant resevoir for about 6 hours drive time). I also get a #3 misfire if I apply any gas before the car is warmed up, but if I let it warm up prior to giving it any gas I dont get any misifre. So I took it to a shop and they said that I have either a cracked block or slipped liner on number 3. However, it passes the chemical leak down test. So I am completely stumped. I have a block from a 99 Disco 1 in my garage, and I am tempted to rebuild that, but I am not sure if the blocks are exactly the same. Are they? Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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If you want some help or guidance, send me your number and we can talk about your options.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So it's been a busy week, but I finally recieved my dye inspection kit so I had a good look. First I looked for external leaks in my coolant system and could grind a thing. So next I took out every spark plug and had a good look inside, and I and behold I see flourescent green in the number 3 cylinder. So I am going t say cracked block. Which I guess makes sense, I bet my previous head gaske failure was a misdiagnosis and that's why there was no obvious failure point in the old head gasket. So now I am definitely thinking about rebuilding the block from the 99 discovery 1. The question is, is it the same block that I have? Can I rebuild it adjust put all of my ancillaries and oil pan and front cover on it?
 

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I have never seen someone so eager to write off a block without tearing the heads of and inspecting. Unless you just like wasting money, I would suggest you slow down and do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's not that I am eager to write off the block, it's that I have a spare block for a 99 D1, so my theory of "doing it right" is to rebuild that block any make it as efficient, and reliable as possible. And then when that is done I will tear into the block that I have now. It seems to me that this is the most efficient and time expedient way to get my car up and running as I can't afford a lot of down time with it. And then I still have the block to tear into and really take my time inspecting it and then I will have another engine I can rebuild in 200,000 miles if the newly rebuilt 99 engine fails for any reason. I can see how actions may seem different than the norm, but it is what makes the most sense to me. However, I am always open to suggestions. But in my mind rebuilding the 99 engine seems like the best course of action.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, so it's been a long time since this thread was active, and even then not a lot of responses. Anyway, I have struggled with what to do with it since then. Luckily I have been gone so I didn't need to make a quick decision. I just about decided to trade it in, but when I got home and went looking for new cars I realized I couldn't do it. So I finally got a decent amount of leave and decided to tear into it. But I am completely baffled. I removed the heads, the HG looked brand new, no failure point. So I took the heads to the machine shop and had them pressure tested and check the straightness. They were perfect. However the intake valve was steam cleaned, but that was the only obvious thing that showed coolant was truly getting in the number 3 cylinder. The block checked out fine too. So now both me and the machine shop are at a standstill not knowing what to do next. We know coolant is getting in the number 3 cylinder, but have no ideas. I would appreciate any ideas or advice.
 

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No, he didn't.
You are getting way ahead of yourself and this leak. Hope your pockets are deep enough for all your guessing.
 

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Ok, so it's been a long time since this thread was active, and even then not a lot of responses. Anyway, I have struggled with what to do with it since then. Luckily I have been gone so I didn't need to make a quick decision. I just about decided to trade it in, but when I got home and went looking for new cars I realized I couldn't do it. So I finally got a decent amount of leave and decided to tear into it. But I am completely baffled. I removed the heads, the HG looked brand new, no failure point. So I took the heads to the machine shop and had them pressure tested and check the straightness. They were perfect. However the intake valve was steam cleaned, but that was the only obvious thing that showed coolant was truly getting in the number 3 cylinder. The block checked out fine too. So now both me and the machine shop are at a standstill not knowing what to do next. We know coolant is getting in the number 3 cylinder, but have no ideas. I would appreciate any ideas or advice.
If you ask Discoweb.org or landroverforums.com you may have more advice and some more help, it might be your best bet to tackle your problem. Some people on this forum are a bit sour, and aren't worth dealing with.

If your HG is fine and your heads are fine, get the block pressure tested and look in through the sparkplug hole in #3, if its leaking, you have a pinhole in your block and its trashed, unless you swap flanged liners in. I'm not sure though.

Good luck finding a solution to your problem. I hope its something stupid and easy to fix. :drink1:

Dane.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the advice Dane, I might just post my problem on the other sites too and see if I get any helpful responses there. I did completely tear down my block and sent it in to be pressure tested, if it checks out ok I am going to have the top skimmed, cylinders honed, freeze plugs replaced, have the pistons and crankshaft polished, then I already bought a new timing set, oil pump set, camshaft, lifters, bearings, ring sets, etc. I guess if the block checks out I am just going to completely rebuild it and hope for the best. By to be honest, I am extremely concerned that we haven't been able to track down the problem.
Mike, sorry I didn't call before but I am gone a lot, and I save my phone time for the family. And I don't know how I am getting ahead of myself and the problem. I know what the symptoms are (coolant in. #3). I checked the head gasket, which would have been everyone's first guess. I checked the heads. Now I am checking the block and the inlet manifold just out of paranoia. And I suppose that my pockets are deep enough to do it right. I am not a fan of fixing only what is broken. I am a fan of fixin what is broken, and replacing items that are prone to wear and/or failure with parts that are known to be good. You can't fault a guy for wanting a vehicle that runs flawlessly without any leaks, can you? I need a reliable vehicle as I am often on a 2 hour recall, so I am willing to spend money to ensure it's done properly so that it is reliable for years to come.
 

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If it were me I would rebuild it all while its part too. Since you already have it apart. I can see trying to pinpoint it before its all apart...but if I take everything off I'm gonna do what I can get to.

Sometimes its not easy to pin point a gasket leak. If the bolts were just loose by chance even by a little sometimes it can just seep by. Its a good call to pressure test the block without evidence of leak otherwise. Stay the course. If you wanna make sure, top hat it if you got the money. Best any non professional can do is the best of their abilities and not short cut, research...even if this thread was full of replies they would still be educated guesses since even the best mechanic would have problems guessing based on descriptions by you and tests/inspections done by others with some possibility of mistake.

I think sometimes mike prefers the call on things like this cause it would take a week to ask all the right questions, wait on responses...no gauge of confidence in answers like with voices.

I would save some money by spending it on your phone to take up on offers of help. Also I wouldn't stop with mike...he is good but get as many opinions as possible. Look up Ptschram and preorder parts from him and try to pick his brain too as far as testing procedures to verify slipped liner. Mike can tell you just get all angles if possible.
 

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Thanks for the advice Dane, I might just post my problem on the other sites too and see if I get any helpful responses there. I did completely tear down my block and sent it in to be pressure tested, if it checks out ok I am going to have the top skimmed, cylinders honed, freeze plugs replaced, have the pistons and crankshaft polished, then I already bought a new timing set, oil pump set, camshaft, lifters, bearings, ring sets, etc. I guess if the block checks out I am just going to completely rebuild it and hope for the best. By to be honest, I am extremely concerned that we haven't been able to track down the problem.
Mike, sorry I didn't call before but I am gone a lot, and I save my phone time for the family. And I don't know how I am getting ahead of myself and the problem. I know what the symptoms are (coolant in. #3). I checked the head gasket, which would have been everyone's first guess. I checked the heads. Now I am checking the block and the inlet manifold just out of paranoia. And I suppose that my pockets are deep enough to do it right. I am not a fan of fixing only what is broken. I am a fan of fixin what is broken, and replacing items that are prone to wear and/or failure with parts that are known to be good. You can't fault a guy for wanting a vehicle that runs flawlessly without any leaks, can you? I need a reliable vehicle as I am often on a 2 hour recall, so I am willing to spend money to ensure it's done properly so that it is reliable for years to come.
Why do you feel the need to try out another site when you really haven't even tried taking our advise especially when some one like, ;like myself with 30 years in running shops can usually give you advise that most others can't
You might want to tell your kids they are going to loose a little phone time so you can get the help you need to fix your truck.
 

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Different perspectives on this could bring a solution to his problem. He wouldn't abandon the tread, Im sure he'll keep is updated and continue to take others advice. Let us know how your pressure test works out.

Also, I agree with what disco biscuit says, if you have the money, get those top hatted liners. You would only have to worry about a head gasket failure in the distant future. I'm not sure if a top hat can cure or cover a leak behind the liner, you might be able to reuse your block if you could. I'd ask around about that.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I thought about top hat liners, and turner sells them for 65 euro's or so. It seems like a decent price to pay for peace of mind, my problem was that no shops within driving distance have ever machined a block for them, and I don't want to be their first. And as much as I would like to ship out my block and have a well known shop with some experience do it, I just can't be without a car for that long. So I am hoping it doesn't come down to that. But if my block is compromised, I'm going to have have them pressure test the one I have from a 99 and go from there. I will have an answer on the block Monday. I'm hoping it's good.

I have also been reading a lot about a product called evans waterless coolant. It is a lifetime coolant that has a boiling point of 315 degrees so it won't pressurize the coolant system like regular antifreeze. Not to mention that without water there is never any corrosion or anything. I think it may be worth it. Has anybody here ever used it? I did a quick search for it on here and didn't find much. It would also let me put the regular thermostat in without worrying about running at the high temps the car was made to run at. And the engine will be more efficient at the higher temp. So I am not really seeing any downsides, except maybe the fact that nobody on this forum has used it before and is able to say if the product is good or not. I am not a huge fan of being a test dummy, but this product may be worth it.
 

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Evans waterless coolant seems to be 100% propylene glycol. It will not remove as much heat as a water/coolant mix. Your operating temp will most likely be higher. Make sure your radiator doesn't have any build up.
 

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Being a first isn't a bad thing, an experienced machine tech should be able to machine them given provided specs or a liner as a sample for them to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, it took me longer than expected to get an answer, but the pressure test on my block came back good. So I guess my block is good to go. I should be able to pick it up tomorrow. Unfortunately I am still waiting on a few parts, I still haven't received the piston rings, rod bearings, and engine mounts. I was surprised when I pulled my block that both of my engine mounts were snapped in two, but I hear it's a common problem, but was wondering why it wasn't noticeable. I would think you would get a lot of vibration with both mounts snapped.

A couple of good things did come out of the long wait for the block though. Ashcroft sells a rebuild kit for the transfer case. And they also sell an updated version of the cross gears called the hd cross pin so that they don't sit atop each other like Lincoln logs. So I took the time to tear apart my old t/c that failed on me and I was able to rebuild it for only about 200 bucks. So for 200 bucks I was able to replace every gasket, o-ring, and bearing and replace my broken cross shafts with the hd cross pins. They also sell a shim kit for around 35 euros which you may or may not need depending on when you do the bearing preload. And it seems the cross pins are the only thing that really break. So if anybody ever breaks their t/c, you know you have the option to rebuild it for the cost of a used leaky unit. Just something for everyone to keep in mind. Ashcroft also has all of the directions and they are well enough written that an idiot like me was able to understand them and get it all back together. And it will be nice to have a t/c that doesn't leak.

I also did the filter/gasket kit for the transmission, and changed the filter for the ACE (who knew there was a filter for that?). And tomorrow I am going to put all new plastic tubing and heat shrink on the wiring loom where it's needed, as most of mine is brittle and falls apart whenever you touch it. So, why not? Ya know?

Anyway, I am excited to get this thing back together and see if she works. Does anyone have any advice for the rebuild? Is there any specific additives anyone reccomends for the break in period? Is there a specific grease or anything that goes on the rod bearings or crank bearings or anything when putting it together? Any advice greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Ok, so I finally got my car back together. And I go to start it, and nothing happens. Everything fun tionc normally until I turn the key to position 3 to actually start it, it doesn't attempt to start or anything. So, what did I do wrong?

So I have been pouring over all of the posts on this site for people who have had problems with their car not starting. Now, the vast majority are posts that don't really apply to my situation. But, I figure I will check out all of the common sense things when I get home tonight. I will check the battery just to be safe, then I will remove the starter and see if it is good (I am going to have to google how to inspect a starter). But after that, there isn't a lot of information out there for a vehilce not starting. I have seen many people have problems with the CKPS, but mine is only a few month old and I doubt it is the culprit, I just dont see it going out during the rebuild process. I am still thinking I messed something up, I don't know what or see how as I had the rave with me every step of the way, and I paid careful attention to the harness section, and it is pretty easy to figure out what goes where after you lay out the harness properly.

If anyone has any ideas they would be greatly appreciated. In ignition position 1 and 2 the car functions and acts completely normal. But when moving the ignition to position 3 to start the vehicle it completely shuts down. After reading other posts I see how similar this symptom is to having a dead battery, so I will check that first thing when I get home and update this post. However, I don't see the battery being dead, as it was removed from the car and kept inside, and I charged it once a week for the four weeks it was out, and the battery itself is only maybe 6 months old. But I suppose stranger things have happened.

This is completely random, and I dont think it is possible, but I thought I would ask people who know better than I do. Could the alternator be the cause of this problem? I only ask because it fell off the shelf a week ago when I was getting some stuff off of there and it landed hard enough to crack the black case. It didnt look like there was any other damage so I changed out the black case with my spares and just figured I would see if it functioned properly once installed.

Anyway, I appreciate all of the help on this site, and the ability to search previous posts. Thanks.
 
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