Land Rover and Range Rover Forum banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm replacing the cam and lifters on my 2000 4.0. While looking for a noisy tappet I found 2 that were not rotating and the cam lobes had begun to wear. But that's beside the point right now...

I see from previous posts that the recommended method to immobilize the crankshaft for crank pulley removal without the special Land Rover tool is to drop the sump (which you have to do anyway) and position a block of wood between a crank balance weight and the block. I've tried this with other engines and typically splinter the wood before the crank bolt breaks loose. I typically use an appropriately sized socket in place of the block, but that was in cast iron blocks and I'd worry that I might damage the aluminum block in the Rover. Is this a legitimate concern?

Is this really the recommended home mechanic procedure, or is there someone out there with the proper tool that will loan or rent it out? I promise I am the trustworthy type. :)

After that is the camshaft itself. The manual doesn't mention any need to remove the radiator. Is there enough room to withdraw the cam without removing the radiator? It doesn't look like it, but I still have a lot of engine to remove.

I will also be replacing the oil pump gears, timing chain and timing gears while I'm in there.
 

·
certified idiot
Joined
·
694 Posts
easiest thing to do is put a 24" breaker bar on the crank bolt and spin the starter, breaks it loose every time, I generally use my rattle gun but you have to raise the radiator about 5 inches if not removing it. The block of wood method does work too, the crank bolt is only at 200 ft lb and with a 24" breaker it breaks quickly. If I was you though just rest the breaker on the frame and crank the starter over once.
The cam itself is quite short (only 4 cylinders long) and should fit without taking out the radiator but when I did mine I removed the radiator so cant be certain.
good luck
Cheers
Barri
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
I've heard about the starter trick working for all sorts of cars and trucks. I've never tried it, maybe next time my crank pulley needs to come off.

Unfortunately it doesn't help you with re installation where you'll need the tool or a block. When I did my front crank seal, I popped out one of the rubber plugs on the back side of the sump. Through that you can access the torque converter bolts. I just popped one out and threaded in a long one of the same thread size. I don't remember the size off hand. This bolt will lock up on the side of the access hole when you work the crank pulley bolt off.

It worked great for me, I don't know if anyone else has an opinion on if it's okay for the torque converter threads or not but I'd say it's fine. Plus it will work again for tightening the 200 ft.lbs crank pulley bolt.

There's a description on removing and refitting that torque converter bolt in the Rave somewhere, probably under transmission removal. I think its 32 ft.lbs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
770 Posts
To remove the camshaft the radiator has to come out. Also, the a/c condenser has to be moved/swung out of the way but no need to disconnect the lines.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top