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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title states, I have a 1999 Discovery 2, will crank strong, start and run for a couple seconds, then shut off. I've done a lot of research across this forum and across the almighty Google, but all of my lurking hasn't helped. Here's what I know:

Pulled the engine fuse/relay board out and checked for corrosion and hot spots, saw a couple threads where corrosion and different things caused some intermittent starts and other similar electrical issues, which includes some different fuel things. I also tested all of the fuses, which are good so anything here that would be a weak link would be a bad relay, but I couldn't find any specifics on testing relays. I've never been super good with the electrical side of automotive mishaps.

It has two codes (according to who I bought it from) one for the mass airflow sensor and one for intake air temperature, which could be a likely culprit. It doesn't run, so I can't go get the codes read more currently, and I don't have the capabilities to read them myself.

The odometer is flashing. Research suggests that this is due to the stored data in the ECU and dash module not lining up, however it just barely started flashing with the rise of this problem but is it possible that something may have glitched and the ECU may be locking me out and cutting the engine off because of a security thing or something?

The common answer with a no start issue is the crankshaft position sensor, but it typically deals with a hot no start problem and not a cold starting dilemma.

I'm on a super tight timeline for a move, so I would rather not have to devote any more time or money into it than necessary, (obviously will if needs be) and I'm not the kind of person to just start throwing parts at things. But I'm lost, and thought that maybe if I make a thread with my specific issue I may be able to get more information about where to start, new insights and see what happens in regards to being able to add something to this forum for someone else to search further down the road.

Best regards.
 

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If there are codes, you can still read them without it running. The OBDII port is active with the key in the 'Run' position. Pick up a cheap code reader. You're gonna need it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Could it be as simple as a bad fuel pump?
That's what I was going to start on today, once I locate the fuel pump relay and get a little bit more information about how to get to the fuel pump itself. I didn't start there originally because I saw a thread that suggested holding the throttle open while cranking to try and blow some junk out of the injectors in the case that it's those, but it hasn't helped and it smells very rich when I'm done, like it's pumping fuel. So if you have any information, it would be appreciated.

If there are codes, you can still read them without it running. The OBDII port is active with the key in the 'Run' position. Pick up a cheap code reader. You're gonna need it again.
Any suggestions on brand or where to get one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update: jumped the fuel pump relay, had very audible fuel pump noise then re-installed relay. When I energized the relay with the key in the on position, nothing from the fuel pump. So it's fairly safe to say that the relay is bad, however it is not the solution. Ordered a relay from NAPA, $18 + shipping and will hopefully be here tomorrow (I need my truck running by Sunday) but when I returned I tried starting it with the relay jumped, and still the same symptoms.

So what's next? MAF sensor? Double check the fuel pump, even though it seems fine in accordance with my experience? Test the crankshaft position sensor? Bite the bullet, tow it to a dealer and have them reset the ECU etc.? Or am I still missing something significant?

Edit: Just ordered a reader to Wal-Mart to be picked up today, will update with codes once I get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don't get too far ahead of yourself. Give us the codes first. Plan on driving something else this weekend. If you do get it fixed by Sunday, consider going out and buying some lottery tickets too.
Yeah I'm not trying to, but working for the gov has me on a tight timeline. Starting towards Pheonix on Sunday that's why. But anyways, just got my code reader.

P1230 fuel pump relay malfunction
P0560 voltage something or other, possibly because battery is low?
P1884 Engine temp or MAF sensor?
P0705 XYZ switch or smething transmission related?

Not 100% on what these codes mean, but that's what I found through searching. Cleared the codes, tried starting it, and nothing came back but I think that it might change if I could drive it down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Am in the process of trying to test the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve, but the pressure test kit I have doesn't have the correct adapter. Any ideas on where I can get an adapter or an alternate source to test the pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Could it simply be a bad battery?
I haven't had it tested, but the battery is only about a month old and it cranks fine, and it'll crank until the battery gets drained, when there is a noticeable change and I have to hook it up to a charger. Is it possible that a low battery could cause a no start like this even though all of the typical symptoms of a low battery aren't being exhibited?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay so I made the drive and got a hold of some actual tools.

Relay is fine
Battery is fine
Alternator is fine
Fuel pump is fine
Fuel pump pushes 35 psi
Spark is bright and quick
But compression is at 75 psi

long story short is that the engine needs replaced or rebuilt to a certain extent and I don't have the time or money to put into that in the middle of a move. Cutting my losses, so now I have a really attractive 2 ton paper weight with awesome tires on it I'm going to sell for parts.

Thank you for the little bit of help I did receive.
 

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before you get down on yourself for the low compression - if you have been cranking the hell out of the engine without pulling the fuel pump relay you will have washed the walls of the cylinder clean and the compression will be poor.
try squirting a shot of oil in the cylinder and crank with the fuel pump relay removed and try the compression again after that.
clean all of the ground points and clean and spray the xyz switch the xyz switch and poor grounds can cause multiple problems.
good luck
Barri
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
before you get down on yourself for the low compression - if you have been cranking the hell out of the engine without pulling the fuel pump relay you will have washed the walls of the cylinder clean and the compression will be poor.
try squirting a shot of oil in the cylinder and crank with the fuel pump relay removed and try the compression again after that.
clean all of the ground points and clean and spray the xyz switch the xyz switch and poor grounds can cause multiple problems.
good luck
Barri
Good to know, thanks. I already got my money back out of it and got rid of it so I can move, but that's definitely good to know. Thanks.
 
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