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The CKPS is not in a water passage, so that's not it. Hard to tell from the photo, but is the drip coolant or water? How much is it leaking? Puddle on the floor leaking?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The CKPS is not in a water passage, so that's not it. Hard to tell from the photo, but is the drip coolant or water? How much is it leaking? Puddle on the floor leaking?
Thank you.
Just checked. Yesterday was a drip, today its not dripping and the reservoir is full. Could this be the reason for not starting at all. Could it be that the CKPS got wet and it is malfunctioning_ we got over an inch of rain in a few hours two days ago _and I don't have the windshield cowl on. Could that be ?
Before I change the CKPS should I test the Fuel Pump_ Can anybody share how to go about it. I already clean and open it, with a light tester in hand. Just don't know which wires to test.
Thank you very much indeed.
 

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'03 Disco SE
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1. A wet CKP (either from rain or coolant) can malfunction.

2. Even without a cowl, no rain water should have gotten down near the CKP. Was anything else in the engine bay wet?

3. If the liquid you're seeing on the CKP is in fact coolant, you probably have a HG leak. This is what happened on my '03 D2 and it was the coolant that killed my sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1. A wet CKP (either from rain or coolant) can malfunction.

2. Even without a cowl, no rain water should have gotten down near the CKP. Was anything else in the engine bay wet?

3. If the liquid you're seeing on the CKP is in fact coolant, you probably have a HG leak. This is what happened on my '03 D2 and it was the coolant that killed my sensor.
Many thanks
I'm on the finals of a complete Top overhaul...
The drip is distilled water. since I'm flushing the system a few times before I put the 50/50
The Heads were machined, new bolts with gaskets, I lower the engine to properly torque the bolts.
Everything is new incl uding chain, water pump, oil pump gears...all the O'rings are new. New kit for the power steering pump_done.
New motor mounts. New oil separator. New cables. New 180 Thermo Stat. New belt.
Everything that you recommended, plus Friends in The UK , New Zealand and Australia...and of course I cant forget Disco Mike ;>)
But it has been over 17 month since I started this project...Im really getting mentally burn...
So I sincerely appreciate any constructive advise...specially now at the end of a painful journey...
Imaging for this to happen now.... ;>(
Thank you Thank you All
 

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'03 Disco SE
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If you do end up needing a new CKP it's really not a big issue - it's a cheap part that (for the most part) is pretty easy to get to. The plug is a bit of a pain but nothing too serious.

AdvanceAutoParts.com has the CKP listed for $59.99 - however if you use one of their coupon codes for 30% off it's like $42 total. You can pick it up at a local store within just a couple days.
 

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Just a clarification. Have you started the truck in the last 17 mon? The leak may be tough to track down without starting it. I would replace the CKPS and put leak detector in the coolant, start it and see if you can trace the leak from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks I' ll change the CKP

If you do end up needing a new CKP it's really not a big issue - it's a cheap part that (for the most part) is pretty easy to get to. The plug is a bit of a pain but nothing too serious.

AdvanceAutoParts.com has the CKP listed for $59.99 - however if you use one of their coupon codes for 30% off it's like $42 total. You can pick it up at a local store within just a couple days.
Would you direct me...Where can I find this coupon...That's great !!!
Much Oblige
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Its been 17 long long months LOL

Just a clarification. Have you started the truck in the last 17 mon? The leak may be tough to track down without starting it. I would replace the CKPS and put leak detector in the coolant, start it and see if you can trace the leak from there.
Thanks. I'll be changing the CKPS...and Ill put a detector...
Many thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got a new InterState Battery.
Just checked the Schraeder Valve and I'm not getting any fuel to the Rails...
I'll be checking the Relays...I still have to learn how to test the Fuel Pump..>(
In a Comatose Estate...
Thank You...for your generous help !!!
 

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'03 Disco SE
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Did you try to reset the inertia (XYZ) switch? It's a small unit with a rubber-covered button on the passenger's side of the firewall. It's designed to kill the fuel pump in the event of a crash or a rollover - oftentimes it gets tripped during a HG job.



Just push it a few times and see if it resets. If it is tripped there will be no power to the pump relay so it'll act as if the pump is dead.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Did That !

Did you try to reset the inertia (XYZ) switch? It's a small unit with a rubber-covered button on the passenger's side of the firewall. It's designed to kill the fuel pump in the event of a crash or a rollover - oftentimes it gets tripped during a HG job.



Just push it a few times and see if it resets. If it is tripped there will be no power to the pump relay so it'll act as if the pump is dead.
I did pressed it in different occasions, but not certain if the key has to be in the ignition on the on position; also when checking the relays does the ignition key has be on too?
This was my first time doing this...I was a complete newbie, but certainly still learning thanks to you all...
Very thankful indeed
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I started the truck...This what I did, but still dripping water !

Thank you...
This is what I did:
-I open the fuel pump cleaned everything on top there and banged on it with a rubber hammer.
-I tested the Fuel pump relay and Im getting a light on in just one of the four corners.
- Truck started ones before I changed the CPS...then the next day it didn't, so I went ahead and change the CPS.
-I haven't reinstalled back the tip that closes the Scherer valve.. Which I will do next.. I just have huge hands waiting for help.
-The truck is starting now every time and only giving one code: P0308...I let it run and It goes to the middle of the temp gage ...does not go higher but when it does I turn it off...never on for more than when it comes to the middle temp.
BUT
The mystery water drip still there...
Is dripping from the hoses that go back from the passenger side to the back of the truck. I cannt make any since of this drip
The reason is water is cause I just finished a complete top overhaul:
Machined Heads, Valve job with New Bolts. New chain with oil pump gears. Rebuilded steering pump. All the gaskets and hoses are new including oil separator...Also cleaned the fuel injectors, with battery method.
Got a 180 Thermostat. Wrapped the exhausts with silicone tape and sprayed it with 2000 degree paint.
I'm running distilled water to find any leaks before I put the coolant in.
I also put Chevron high detergent oil 10/30 for engines over 75K miles....
My next step is change the oil to 10/40 conventional with Marvel Mystery oil...to see if it helps with the P0308 code.
Any other Ideas are welcome ...
Specially about that drip
Thank you for your time and help.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you...
This is what I did:
-I open the fuel pump cleaned everything on top there and banged on it with a rubber hammer.
-I tested the Fuel pump relay and Im getting a light on in just one of the four corners.
- Truck started ones before I changed the CPS...then the next day it didn't, so I went ahead and change the CPS.
-I haven't reinstalled back the tip that closes the Scherer valve.. Which I will do next.. I just have huge hands waiting for help.
-The truck is starting now every time and only giving one code: P0308...I let it run and It goes to the middle of the temp gage ...does not go higher but when it does I turn it off...never on for more than when it comes to the middle temp.
BUT
The mystery water drip still there...
Is dripping from the hoses that go back from the passenger side to the back of the truck. I cannt make any since of this drip
The reason is water is cause I just finished a complete top overhaul:
Machined Heads, Valve job with New Bolts. New chain with oil pump gears. Rebuilded steering pump. All the gaskets and hoses are new including oil separator...Also cleaned the fuel injectors, with battery method.
Got a 180 Thermostat. Wrapped the exhausts with silicone tape and sprayed it with 2000 degree paint.
I'm running distilled water to find any leaks before I put the coolant in.
I also put Chevron high detergent oil 10/30 for engines over 75K miles....
My next step is change the oil to 10/40 conventional with Marvel Mystery oil...to see if it helps with the P0308 code.
Any other Ideas are welcome ...
Specially about that drip
Thank you for your time and help.
So far:
About code P0308, the porcelain on he plug was crack...the truck is starting every time....very steady, you could actually put a fill glass of wine on top of the engine and it would not spill.
I check all the plugs and there is no water on them and the firing chamber sounds wonderful, BUT
The water drip is contaminating the oil.. I changed the oil as I planed and it was full of water.I'm certain is not the head gasket leaking since there were machined and valves were worked on, and everything was changed new and worked on, new bolts etc. The muffler is not sucking the rag in and where you put the oil in_is normal: no sucking nor is blowing air out + no sound of water in the firing chamber, no evidence of missfiing tells me that the heads held.
Where could the water be coming into the oil from ?
Should I removed the manifold and look for what , what test should I performed...After all this time I should hold my breath and not considerer what I was contemplating...Stop leak solution, but it sounds so phenomenal that it would be a SIN...
Please HELP.
 

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My guess is the water is coming from the timing cover gasket. Pull the pan and pressure test, should be easy to verify.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
My guess is the water is coming from the timing cover gasket. Pull the pan and pressure test, should be easy to verify.
Thanks
Do you mean the oil pan...and pressure test what ? I'm sorry for my naïveté...

This pictures show the long bolt that I broke on the front cover, I mended it with the right stuff .... I didn't think it could cause this contamination. ...I could be very wrong.....Has any of you heard of this possibility ?
 

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Pull the oil pan and pressurize the cooling system to see where the water is coming from. However, I don't think there's any need to verify after looking at the photos.

Coolant travels in and out of the water pump through passages in the front cover. If not sealed properly, the water runs right down into the oil pan.
 

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That bolt goes through the water pump and timing cover. It is there to clamp the pump and timing cover against their gaskets,
I believe that that hole is wet as well (goes in to a coolant passage) as well. If you can extract it (proper repair and replace it with a new bolt, it should seal up without your current "band aid " and should seal the coolant passage and steppe rate it from the oil passages in the timing cover
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Pull the oil pan and pressurize the cooling system to see where the water is coming from. However, I don't think there's any need to verify after looking at the photos.

Coolant travels in and out of the water pump through passages in the front cover. If not sealed properly, the water runs right down into the oil pan.
Many Many Thanks
 
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