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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've gone through every thread relating to this issue but after finally seeing the prices on new CV Joint kits I want to give my own description of the sound and be 110% sure before I go and spend several hundred $$$.

Well...

When I place the wheels at full-right or full left and get the truck (96 D1) moving, my front left emits a sound similar to that of creecking wood from an old ship, just not so highpitched (some description eh..lol). Yes it does have a bit of a vibration to go with it and yes I know this has CV JOINT wirtten all over it...lol I was hoping It'd be something else, like tire rub ( even though I have stock size )

I've spent hours looking at the Shop Manual and I think a CV joint replacement would take a whole day and maybe even two (for me, I'm very meticulous).

Any other suggestions would be TOTALLY welcome and considered.

Thanks
 

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stupid question but have you checked your wheel bearings? Not quite sure what kinda noise they're making but bad wheel bears will have a kinda grinding noise. plus they're cheaper and easier to replace.
how about recording the sound for us so we can hear it? :eek:
take care
sam
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey guys, thanks for the replies...

Disco, I consider myself an Intermediate mechanic, I come from a Muscle Car building background...I'm only meticulous the first time I do things because I'll begin to look at how everything goes together, what connects to what, be amazed at how different LRs engineering is from other vehicles, and finally begin to slowly dissasemble, while taking mental notes about everything I'm doing. When time comes for reassembly, and for second times around in the future, I work quicker. What should have been a 15 minute job to change the dampener, took about an hour because I spent a lot of time looking at the underside of the engine and front end since it was my first time under the Rover...MUCH different from what I was used to in pre-73 autos.

Hank, I've never touched anything down there so I'm guessing it still has the stock Oil...or actually, I've never had a leak from there so as the saying goes, "If its not leaking, its empty"..lol

Dent, you know I have not checked the bearings. I do apologize because I should have mentioned this when I noticed but, the sound only comes on a FULL Left when backing up, and then when straightening out when moving foward. It barely sounds when at FULL Right and backing out. And what you said about recording it, I was thinkin about doing that today on my drive home, just need to find my recorder.
 

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Well, if you have never changed it, it's due. Just pull it apart...You will need a 17mm, 13mm 12-point, snap ring pliers, and a hub nut tool (2 1/16" I think). Sometimes the drive falange can be a pain to get off/on if it has never been removed, so a dead blow hammer may be needed.

Just pull the wheel, brake caliper, snap ring and two spacers, drive flange, two hub nuts, hub/rotor, and spindel. The spindel does not have to come off, but you may as well look things over....Everything can be sealed back up with gasket goo. Be sure to use blue loctite.

I use 90w oil, but you can also get the grease packs sold by AB, Rovers north, Nathan, etc...

You will have to look up all the tourque specs...First side may take you an hour/hour and a half to rebuild, seconds side will be half that... I can get em done in about 20 minutes or less, start to finish.

You won't leard unless you try. Just take your time. It's hard to f'''k up.

After writing this, I forgot to ask what year your truck is....This applys to 97-mid 99
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
BTW, yeah mine's a 96. Dude, really appreciate it! I'll look into that as soon as I get some spare time. Hell, If I'm on here at work all day, might as well do it while I'm "working"...lolol
 

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Your description of the sound is nothing like a faulty CV joint. Replacing them should take 2-3 hrs tops, unless you get all cramped up sitting on the ground like I do. Best if you have a friend with a lift and you can work at belly height.

A Dry CV and one which is heading south make a speed dependant clicking sound, and usually only at extreme angles, as thats when the balls are the furthest out of their races.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
TerryS said:
A Dry CV and one which is heading south make a speed dependant clicking sound, and usually only at extreme angles, as thats when the balls are the furthest out of their races.
Terry, you nailed it!...That's exactly it! So it's only dry and my CV isnt a total goner?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Nevermind my above comment...its a TOTAL goner...lol...every day the clicking/clunking gets worse and I dont even have to turn the wheel all the way to the left to hear it. A normal left hand turn is enough. I've noticed that it clicks more when I press the accelerator than when gliding through a turn.
 

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Just a thought..but if you look at that picture..directly to the left of your circle. at the end of the bracket..it looks to me that there is a "witness mark"
It's possible that on full left turns for the right side tie rod sleeve clamp to hit in this area. This can and does happen on that model..the fix is to loosen the clamp and rotate the adjuster so it doesnt hit anymore..basically so that the nut/bolt is on the front side.
Not sure if this is your problem or not, but its worth a look.
good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Son of Lucas, I do appreciate your response, but I really cant locate the witness mark you speak of...can you point it would for me with a mark or something...or if anyone who knows do so as well?? Thanks guys! The tab keeps growing for many of your, are Coronas fine??? :drink1:
 

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01001010 said:
Son of Lucas, I do appreciate your response, but I really cant locate the witness mark you speak of...can you point it would for me with a mark or something...or if anyone who knows do so as well?? Thanks guys! The tab keeps growing for many of your, are Coronas fine??? :drink1:

Well, unfortunately, i'm nowhere near talented enough with a computur to be able to show you..but try this..
start the car(so you have the benefit of power steering)..have a helper get in the car and turn the wheel fully left(foot on brake, trans in park, etc. etc. blah blah)
locate the front passenger side tie rod end..now check to see if the collar is hitting on the bracket right near the bolt you have circled.
it should be obvious if there is any interference.
hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
wow, there must be some devine intervention here from the Rover Gods....I just came in from checking...

Unfortunately, I've got a bad CV for SURE. I dont feel too bad about it since I've been dyin to work on ANYTHING on my truck (it runs so well I only do reg maint. lol) and this gives me a reason, and one hek of a valid excuse to spend 300bux on a new one with the rebuild kit, and the LR Gear Lube. Should be a fun and educational repair. Since I'll be using the new LR Gear Lube for the new one, I'll also go ahaed and drain the RH swivel and Lube that one up as well. I have pics...I'm resizing them now....I'll edit this post and put them up.

brb...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ibjettin said:
well it does sound a lot funner than just tightening a bolt :D
LOL...yep..LOL... I did find the spot he was lookin for though...



Guess that was a trail-inflicted scrape. My LH CV is a goner though, I've been makin REEEAALLY wide turns to avoid the sound. It's a dreadful one. :rolleyes:
 

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01001010 said:
wow, there must be some devine intervention here from the Rover Gods....I just came in from checking...

Unfortunately, I've got a bad CV for SURE. I dont feel too bad about it since I've been dyin to work on ANYTHING on my truck (it runs so well I only do reg maint. lol) and this gives me a reason, and one hek of a valid excuse to spend 300bux on a new one with the rebuild kit, and the LR Gear Lube. Should be a fun and educational repair. Since I'll be using the new LR Gear Lube for the new one, I'll also go ahaed and drain the RH swivel and Lube that one up as well. I have pics...I'm resizing them now....I'll edit this post and put them up.

brb...
You can get the CVs for a lot less (check out RN). If you plan on doing some water crossings I would not use the grease in the swivels, it'll be a PIA to drain the grease when water gets in the CV housing.
 
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