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Discussion Starter #1
My 2002 D2 intermittently refuses to start. It seems to usually happen after having driven for a bit in the day...I hear the starter cranking strong but it just does not start up.

i have tried on a couple of these occasions holding it cranking for like 45 seconds to no avail....

It seems to do fine in the mornings or after she gets about an hour break from driving about town but mid-day (usually in the middle of shuttling kids from school to various after school sports) she craps out on me.

This truck has 168K miles and I have read here in other posts that the "crank shaft position sensor" is a suspect part that might lead to this....do my symptoms sound like they fit this issue?

Are there other typical parts that fail around this mileage that would cause a starting problem?

Is this a dealership only part or are there reliable sources that are less expensive?

:drink1:
 

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If it's typically doing this when warm, spray cold water on your coil packs and try it. If it cranks and won't start warm, but does after cooling down the coils than that's your problem. CPS can also do goofy things. Unfortunately, checking for tach bounce while cranking does not work on these since the pick-up is in the alternator. I can't remember, but I think the check engine light will go off while cranking if the cps is bad. It's not a bad job to change out and probably a good thing to change out anyway at your mileage. I just replaced the one in my 96, took maybe 15 minutes. It's just above the oil pan on the driver's side (LHD) facing rearward into the bell housing under a cover. Two 7mm screws. It is possible to remove it with a 1/4 drive ratchet and short extension and just clear the exhuast downpipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
it looks like the coil pack is pretty well burried in the back of the engine compartment. Is there any risk or haard to getting that all wet back there? If that is the issue, how much labor is involved in swapping out the coil pack?

I took it to the local independent LR shop where they read the codes: P1884, P1590, and P0102.

They said that P0102 was "airflow signal voltage low" and recommended that I replace the airflow sensor. They did that and threw in a new air filter as well.

I drove home from the shop (which was about a 40 minute drive) and when I got home the truck was nice and warm and again would not start. When I called the shop this time the mechanic is now saying that there is most likely a fuel pump/fuel pressure issue.
 

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Sounds like cps to me you will need 7&8 mm sockets . Don't think it would be coils you have two . Can't believe it would be both . If you do replace them don't forget the plenum gasket & you would be crazy not to change your plug wires . Check the forum thats who to get the deals from.
 

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Unfortunately, checking for tach bounce while cranking does not work on these since the pick-up is in the alternator.
Not on a DII.

We don't even know if it has spark or fuel.

Cue the Waylon and Willie!

Got spark? Got fuel?

Don't go back to a shop that sells you parts and then surmises what's wrong, go to one where they know WTF they are doing and can explain their troubleshooting/diag to you.

I'd rather spend ten minutes on the phone teaching someone to diagnose their truck than sell a part they don't need.
 

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If it's typically doing this when warm, spray cold water on your coil packs and try it. If it cranks and won't start warm, but does after cooling down the coils than that's your problem. CPS can also do goofy things.
Coils on these have a reputation for being pretty reliable. Crank Position Sensor on the other hand has a reputation for being anything but.

We don't even know if it has spark or fuel.
Yeah. What he said!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Am I getting spark and fuel? I think so.

When the truck was cold this morning, it fired up beautifully. I am not sure if this can change as it warms up though. That is when it tends to not start.

The sensor seemed cheap enough and the time investment didn't sound major so I just picked up the sensor. I am looking under my truck on the driver's side and I think I should see the cover for it with two nuts somewhere near the catalytic converter... like this:

http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/attachments/f40/25794d1278381627-crank-position-sensor-help-ckp.jpg

but I don't see it.

Is this video applicable?

D2 CPS install - YouTube

BTW, my DII is an '02 SE automatic.... I am not sure that makes any difference.
 

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Look at the left side of the oil pan, now looks back to the horizontal portion of the oil pan parallel to the axles, now look up. That's it right there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ahhh, I am clearly pretty mechanically retarded.... I was looking in the wrong direction from the exhaust down pipe.

So once I found it, I got the cap and sensor off and put the new one in place but I am having difficulty unplugging the cable of the old sensor. Is it simply supposed to pull straight out or is there a trick to it?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks PT! now that I got my arm unwedged from the exhaust, it's is miraculously up and running again. I think it will be an hour or so before we will see if this fixes the starting issue when it is warm.


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Thanks PT! now that I got my arm unwedged from the exhaust, it's is miraculously up and running again. I think it will be an hour or so before we will see if this fixes the starting issue when it is warm.


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I take it my coat hanger idea didn't work too well for you then, eh?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, I'm just kidding about getting stuck in the exhaust. It worked great. If I ever have to do it again I'll be able to knock it out like a pro.

I had read it could be done with the exhaust in place but dropping the exhaust makes a big difference in the frustration level of the job too.

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, you're in my neck of the woods. That might be mine.

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The manual says it has to be reset with Testbook after you replace the crankshaft position sensor. Is that necessary? What do us normal guys use?
 

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Not required.
 

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crank sensor rarely throws a code.
 

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I am having a few issues, sometimes wont start but will crank, others are it missfires and dies sometimes when i stop at traffic lights etc.
Mechanic's who deal with land rovers a very far and few between nearest to me is 2 1/2 hours away.
One who plugged it into the scanner said i have missfire issues but couldnt help any more. I suggested Crank Sensor but he said there would be a fault code.

Does it sound like i might be on the right track? I am happy to swap it and see, is there anything else needed to be done or just a straight swap etc? I have read that settings need to be reset? Thanks
 
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