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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 1992 Range Rover County has basically a shot 3.9L EFI V8 with 190k on it. The rest of the truck seems ok-trans, diffs, t-case, etc. The car was always a little noisy (engine) with tapping / knocking sounds-but always ran good. It was extremely slow on hills, but a good highway cruiser. Just recently, I noticed pressure building up in the coolant tank, even if the engine was only running for a short time. SLOWLY releasing the cap would result in the hiss of escaping pressure, and then a kind of bubbling sound from the tank. The coolant smells like gas. D.A.P. says the engine is shot (phone description only) I agree, even though it doesn't overheat. A short drive, when the engine gets to normal temp, going up a hill blows tons of white vapor out the back, and there is a bad smell. So anyway, I think the engine is junk, and I have found a 1996 Discovery with a 4.0 V8 in it with only 50-60k on it. I want to transplant the 4.0 into the RR. I can get it very cheap. The problem is, the Disco is a 96 with OBD-II computers, electronic distributorless ignition, etc, and a serpentine belt. What is the cheapest way to do this transplant?

By the way, being in the States, I hear and read a lot of British people talk about the power and speed of the "big V8 Rovers." Even the 4.6 seems a little slow! There are so many American SUV's that can blow the doors off any Rover! (V8 Explorer, Trailblazer, Tahoe, Suburban, Escalade, Yukon / Denali, Expedition, Excursion, Durango (5.7L 345bhp HEMI!!) and others I'm not thinking of. I know that any Rover is far better than any of those, but still...

In addition to fixing the Classic, I will probably be purchasing a 1995 RR 4.0SE within a week for the "reliable" winter Rover. (It has 132k on it, new BeCM, converted suspension, new Bilsteins, new Batt, new radio, alarm reprog, new oil pan, etc) This RR seems vastly superior to the Classic in all areas.
 

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please please document and take pics...

troverman said:
My 1992 Range Rover County has basically a shot 3.9L EFI V8 with 190k on it. The rest of the truck seems ok-trans, diffs, t-case, etc. The car was always a little noisy (engine) with tapping / knocking sounds-but always ran good. It was extremely slow on hills, but a good highway cruiser. Just recently, I noticed pressure building up in the coolant tank, even if the engine was only running for a short time. SLOWLY releasing the cap would result in the hiss of escaping pressure, and then a kind of bubbling sound from the tank. The coolant smells like gas. D.A.P. says the engine is shot (phone description only) I agree, even though it doesn't overheat. A short drive, when the engine gets to normal temp, going up a hill blows tons of white vapor out the back, and there is a bad smell. So anyway, I think the engine is junk, and I have found a 1996 Discovery with a 4.0 V8 in it with only 50-60k on it. I want to transplant the 4.0 into the RR. I can get it very cheap. The problem is, the Disco is a 96 with OBD-II computers, electronic distributorless ignition, etc, and a serpentine belt. What is the cheapest way to do this transplant?

By the way, being in the States, I hear and read a lot of British people talk about the power and speed of the "big V8 Rovers." Even the 4.6 seems a little slow! There are so many American SUV's that can blow the doors off any Rover! (V8 Explorer, Trailblazer, Tahoe, Suburban, Escalade, Yukon / Denali, Expedition, Excursion, Durango (5.7L 345bhp HEMI!!) and others I'm not thinking of. I know that any Rover is far better than any of those, but still...

In addition to fixing the Classic, I will probably be purchasing a 1995 RR 4.0SE within a week for the "reliable" winter Rover. (It has 132k on it, new BeCM, converted suspension, new Bilsteins, new Batt, new radio, alarm reprog, new oil pan, etc) This RR seems vastly superior to the Classic in all areas.
Smells like gas? And did you test it for gas or oil in there? How much white smoke on the hills? A lot? Any PICS of it? So what if it has 196k.. that is when my 3.5 really showed me some interesting ability. How many mods did you do to your 3.9 to get it up in power? Cam? Exhaust? Intake? I know there are 3.9 Rover engines out there making over 250hp, easy. I would love to see you on the highway with my old tired 3.5 300kmi motor on 91 north.

What kind of hills, what altitude? So. VT hills? U talked to D.A.P. and they just told you... oh well, this is shot. Bring it to them and have them explain to you why.

If you can get the 96 for cheap, then take everything you can out of the motor with you.. You have what a 14cux in your RRC? Do the serpintine belt conversion. Also get the ECU, Airflow meter and intake. Leave nothing behind. Before you drop the 4.0 in there, drop a new cam in there to give you a little help on those hills. For the exhaust, do the headman headers into high flow cats and some kind of free flow exhaust. Check out a Jacobs ingition too. that will help with some help on those hills.

And if you are so spent on the hemi, just go to summitracing.com, get a crate engine and put a hemi in your Rover. Just tooling on the little underpowered Rovers is not going to get you any respect here or on any other BB.

Also I am sure you know this, but the Rover motor started out as a Buick here in the states. Rover bought the engine plant from GM.. so a knock there is a knock against the Detriot peeps.

The 5.0 litre TVR Griffin Rover motor puts out 370+ and that is a Rover 4.6 (a buick) A guy on another BB just put it in his d110 and has it going over 90 MPH all day long.

If you MUST get the 1996 4.0se bling bling mobile for the winter for a "reliable" car that has 136k mi on it.. my prayers are with you. You will need them.
 

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Sounds like you have blown a head gasket - coolant is entering the combustion chamber (hence the white smoke), and combustions gases entering the coolant.

My best advice is the 4.6 short block conversion, though not sure if available where you are. A massive increase in power and torque, better economy, and probably one of the most cost effective conversions around. I think a company in England specialises in exporting short block conversions of this type. I can follow up with a name if you wish

/viz
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did just buy a 1995 Range Rover 4.0SE. Its black with the dark tan leather, 133k on it, brand new Dunlop tires plus a set of like new Nokian WR-H tires. (Huge 255x65x16) So far its great, smoother, quieter, seemingly more powerful. (Than the Classic) The previous owner did a lot to it: New BeCM, coil conversion, 4 new heated windshields, oil pan, entire new LR genuine exhuast system and cats, O2 sensors, New radio, new fuel injectors, new intake manifold, hose recall done, replaced most of the dash lightbulbs, etc.
It does need a little work: rear tailgate button needs replacement, overriding with custom interior switch for now. Needs blend motors on CC. Needs new sunroof cables. Has a dent in one of the castellated edges on the hood. (Prev owner did some light off-roading) Other than that, very nice, extremely clean interior, not all scratched, looks great. As for the Classic, yes the motor will still run, even start promptly. But when it is warmed up, going up a short (100 feet) hill, say 18% grade incline, when the motor is turning low RPMS (~2000) in drive on auto trans, it will blow enough white smoke out the back to cover both lanes. It vapors when you start is up and stays vaporing (burning coolant, I presume) the whole time. The exhaust smells really bad. D.A.P. says putting a new headgasket on might fix for 3,000 miles or so but than the pressure would blow it again. I think probably cylinder walls are scored. The deal with the 96 4.0 engine is this: It is in a 1996 Discovery SD which has some light damage on the side. The engine ECU's are gone. The engine, trans, t-case, diffs, etc are all intact with 50k miles on them. Cannot here the engine run (no computers) but it will turn over freely, has oil in it, and is totally sealed with everything under the hood as it was before the accident. I can take the whole truck away for $600 US. All I want is the motor, and could probably part the rest off for a refund. D.A.P. says cam must be changed on 4.0 to one for 3.9 due to distributor drive, plus a new front cover and a few other odds and ends.
 
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