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Discussion Starter #1
First time here and looking for some help. We have a 2011 RRS with 99,005 miles on her. The other day we got some message about "optimal performance" and the vehicle shaking. Parked it and called a tow truck. After sitting there for 5 minutes, I checked the oil level and the temp gauge, both were within normal limits. No leaks... yet! When the tow truck put the Rover on the flatbed, I could see coolant at the front of the engine and leaking.
Question, why when I try to start her, I have nothing!! Battery is charged and I have 12.94 volts. I push the Start button and the radio comes on, dash lights up. Put the foot on the brake to start it and it shuts everything down when I hit the Start button.

I've contacted a dealer 2 1/2 hours away and they say there's no safety feature that would explain this. Motor seized? I would expect a little more noise like from the starter.

Thank you.:eek
 

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unfortunately that's not a lot of information to formulate a sensible opinion from.

if you decide to DIY, the first step should be to obtain a LR specific code reader and see what the truck has to say
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you.
My code reader told me misfires on #2 , 4, 6, and 8 cylinders. I pulled the #2 and 4 spark plugs and found nothing out of the normal. Plugs looked great but the #4 plug was wet with fuel. I'm able to turn the motor over by hand so no welded rings to the cylinders!! We found the mega fuse at the battery was blown and we replaced it. Still nothing. Took a break to eat dinner and came back out and the #4 cylinder was filled with fuel spilling out. Now I'm really confused. What would cause the fuel system to be activated? I'll pull the #2 spark plug again and check to see if it's filled with fuel. Maybe it's isolated to the #4 cylinder? I'm going down this rabbit hole!!!
Any other suggestions? A short some where?
Haven't even tackled the coolant issue. I'm replacing the water pump and the front and rear crossover tubes.
 

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have you tested the fuel delivery circuits during power off and during IGN2?

also, which code reader are you using and can you provide the actual codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That I have not done. Where would I start that testing?
The reader is a cheap Innova 3030. I was just looking at the Foxwells to get one specific for Land Rover.
The codes were:
P0300
P0302
P0304
P0308
P0340
P0345

So misfires and camshaft sensor codes.
Thank you. I'm not going to give up on this... maybe? :)
 

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don't give up! you should consider getting an LR specific code reader, because i've seen autel and other generic readers give totally different (and inaccurate) codes than my foxwell.

check at the junction and relay boxes that the fuses and relays aren't energized (+12v) when the car is off
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was trying to decide between the one you have or the NT624 Elite. I would hope the later would diagnose more than just one vehicle!! I'm seeing that I have no DTC's now. :eek
I will check those relays and report back!
Thank you.
 

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Good deal.

Have you tested your battery voltage?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
don't give up! you should consider getting an LR specific code reader, because i've seen autel and other generic readers give totally different (and inaccurate) codes than my foxwell.

check at the junction and relay boxes that the fuses and relays aren't energized (+12v) when the car is off
Battery tested great!!
Started looking at the fuel relay and is it normal to have 9.3v going to it with the key in the off position? I have 12.3 going to it with the key in the on position. Starter relay and the fuel relay were tested and both are working. Still have nothing when I go to start it. Everything just shuts down! I left the Fuel relay out for now until I figure that voltage thing.
Also had a loud buzzing sound coming from the throttle body when the ignition was on. Never noticed it being that loud before but maybe the engine drowned it out.

I got the same code reader you have in your signature. Will be here on Wednesday! :)
 

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excellent news about the foxwell.

do you have the shop manual for this rig?

it sounds like you have some electrical issue. any heavy rain or water on the roadway when it happened? any other circumstantial things worthy of note?
 

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Does your fuel still fill the cylinder while off with the fuse removed? If not, it will reinforce the electrical perspective, corroborated by the main fuse event
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No fuel in the cylinder the last two days.
I'm definitely thinking electrical as well. I was afraid the engine might have seized with the coolant leak we found when putting it on the tow truck. I called the Indy guy here and he said unless you watch the temp gauge 24/7, you will never see it over heat! No idiot lights.
I'm able to turn over the engine by hand. I had the wife look into the cylinder yesterday and I went through 3 cycles with her seeing the piston.
I'm trying to get the engine to turn over with the starter before I even start on the water pump and front and rear tube replacement.

Have you heard of crossing the + and - terminals on the battery to do a "hard reset"? The local Indy guy told me about that. Sounds risky. The Interstate battery people I took the battery to did not like that idea at all!

Thanks for all the help. I will not give up on this!! :)
 

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NONONO!

Disconnect the + and - leads from the battery, and bridge the CAR side cables not the battery side. Bridging the battery side is definitely dangerous.

This can discharge your computers and reset them, but just wait for your foxwell and do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I thought I responded last night but the laptop is old and finicky!
So it can be done but not the way I worded it. I must have misunderstood the guy.
I was meaning to ask you if the Foxwell will be able to point me in the general direction of locating this issue? I read in another post from 2017 that a guy had a similar issue and it was a ground issue. Said it was a pain but save him a lot of money finding it himself. He said start at the negative terminal and work your way back!!
 

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the code reader can help. sometimes it requires a bit of clairvoyance to see the forest for the trees

sometimes codes are super helpful, but sometimes the codes are symptomatic of the cause... sometimes loosely connected
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I got the code reader the other day and boy do I have a lot of faults! A lot that have nothing to do with my issue, I think. I did find a high voltage alarm at the fuel circuit and a low battery. The high voltage was permanent and the battery was intermittent.
I went out yesterday to test the fuel circuit and I got no reading across the fuse or across the relay with the key off. So something happened there. I'm going to go out today and test the same circuits with the key in the on position and see what I get. Hopefully when I turn the key off I will continue to get nothing across these circuits. As for the battery, when I had the reader hooked up, I got the "Battery low start your engine" message. That to me doesn't sound like a very strong battery but it tested fine. I had the reader hooked up for about a hour.
Any thoughts?
I posted yesterday but the "going live" thing happened!!
 

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what are all of the faults? while they may seem overall unrelated, there may be a common theme to draw from them, such as all units on medium speed can bus, or high speed bus, etc.
have you tried putting a trickle charger on the battery overnight? it doesn't take a huge drop in voltage to piss these things off
 

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Just a quick suggestion, did you check to ensure that all your battery grounds are OK? When you get all kinds of unrelated error codes that is usually highly indicative of electrical grounding problems...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just went out there and tested the fuel relay again. After the key is in the off position, I'm still getting 9.3 volts to the relay!!
Faults...
PCM-powertrian module, I have 6
Throttle/pedal position, circuit low. Because I unplugged it?
Throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A/B voltage correlation
TCM, Transmission control module, I have 1
ABS control module, I have 1
RCM, Restraints control module, I have 1
IPC- Instrument control module, I have 6

This is to name a few. Am I reading the reader right? Under description it states "Fault I6" Is this 6 faults or a certain fault?

enb54, I hear you about the ground issue! Where do I start? Follow the negative battery down and I see it connected to the body. I'll try to wiggle every connected ground I can see. They're everywhere!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Found from other searching Range Rovers... Electrical issues! Start with testing the battery, my voltage was 13.4. I had it on a charger all night. It gave me the green light saying it was charged. Turned the key on with no start, obviously, and turned the lights on, heater on blower full blast, high beams, hazards for 30 seconds. Turned everything off and tested the battery and it read 12.3 volts. According to this article the battery is not well enough. But look for other issues, ie. alternator. Hard to test alternator without a running vehicle!!
Still not explaining the voltage to the fuel relay with the key in the off position.
 
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