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Discussion Starter #1
Just spent the last three hours reading about distributor swap options and was surprised to find no consensus on the best replacement that didn't require heavy modifications (aka, machining distributor shafts to fit the gear is out of the question). Having spent years wrenching and sharing on the Subaru forums, I can't tell if there simply aren't enough RRC owners to come to a general consensus or if we simply are all too partial to the way we fixed our own unique problems, but it seems our forums in general lack consensus and objective discussion on which replacement parts are superior and why... or am I the only one that feels this way? I suppose most agree the original parts are superior, but that is becoming an ever irrelevant point as they become harder to find and more expensive each year we all keep eating up those parts on the road.

Back to the topic at hand... there must be a distributor replacement for my 1995 Range Rover Classic 4.2L which is generally considered the best replacement option? In my 3 hours of research I've seen people go a few directions without any one option sticking out as the most reliable or preferred:

1) Get the Pertronix D175520 and easily modify to work with a remote ignition amp module (IAM). Easiest swap option, yet it seems to have very poor reviews on Amazon and bipolar reviews on the forums with some folks having great luck and others getting poorly produced products.

2) Get the Pertronix D175510 (version without the IAM for non-EFI Rovers) and a matching epoxy 1.5ohm coil and modify it to send the pulse to the ECU for the EFI to be in sync. Personally a little surprised this even works, as Pertronix techs certainly didn't recommend this setup and I'm just having a hard time believing that the pulse output of this dizzy is within the specs to provide input to the ECU for EFI triggering, especially since our original set-up provides the triggering after the IAM. Although overall I certainly LOVE the idea of getting rid of the IAM if possible and this dizzy has also great reviews - thus I am still interested to hear if it's possible or recommended.

3) Mallroy Unilite. Requires shaft machining for gear pin installation ... off my list unfortunately.

4) Buick HEI Distributor and matching ignition amp. I haven't seen anyone post a complete instruction on the parts needed and modifications required for this to be possible. Sounds fairly do-able, upsides are a setup with more commonly found parts, downside is modifying a bigger heat sink for the GM IAM.

5) Find a used original Lucas replacement. Certainly an option, however I was hoping to get something new so I could confirm the longevity of the part I was purchasing. Being in Nicaragua, I really have only one shot at getting it right unless I want to spend 4 weeks stranded waiting for the next option... which is why used scares me.

I've blown two IAMs in the last few months, stranding me in difficult situations. I can now hear something loose rattling around in the lower part of my distributor, but the car is currently running great with a new IAM and my rattling dizzy. Certainly this loose part may be the cause of the IAM failures so I want to get a replacement ASAP. Not in a position where I can disassemble the dizzy to learn more of this rattling part... can't risk stranding myself at the moment. Even after replacement, the current dizzy will remain in current status as a backup. 205,000 miles and am guessing the dizzy is the original.

Thanks crew! Certainly still learning these vehicles ... at least they are an absolute pleasure to work on compared to the cramped Subaru where three difficult things have to be removed to replace one simple thing!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Appreciate the thought, but those both look quite a lot harder to source out here. I still think the source of my ignition modules going out is likely distributor related, which is why I'm asking for replacement advice on the dizzy. I just have a hard time believing that I've fried two OEM modules simply due to single point failure.
 

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I just went through a distributor replacement on my 1994. I ended up with 3 defective or improperly assembled (stripped screw on one) Pertronix D175520 units. Rather disappointing as it was an easy swap and the first unit seemed to run really nicely for about 5 miles.

So, JC's British here in Denver recommended the Proline unit (PLI019) from RoversNorth (I'm not allowed to post links) and, so far, it's performing really well. It was a direct drop-in for the 1994 genuine LR unit that finally gave up the ghost at 160k.

My recommendation may not work so easily for a 1995 as this unit has the amplifier on the side... but I'd think a workaround could be devised. Perhaps the remote unit (that's how the 1995 is laid out, yes?) could be bypassed?
 

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For my 95 LWB I put in a replacement 35dlm8 with the side mounted amplifier. I took the amp off, and plugged the wires from the remote in to the connector on the dizzy. I soldered blade connectors filed down to fit the plug in socket. Works great.
 
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