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My 1995 Disco 1 languished all winter in the car-port because I'm too cheap to shell out $250 or more for a rebuilt alternator. The fact that many owners report refurbished alts going belly-up within six months of replacement was also cause for hesitation. Here's my solution.

John Brabyn, at rangerovers.net, has some very useful info about RR, including a link on its alternator conversion page to John Purnell's site, jpurnell.com/RR/repairs/DelcoAlternator.htm. Refer to "Trent's" conversion on Purnell's site.

I bought a Delco cs-style alternator (Delco #321-1086 or GM #10463624)from a salvage yard that is supposed to put out a little more power than our 100-amp LR specials. It requires a four-wire pigtail (part # EC268) from NAPA to wire in correctly. The pully off the Disco alt was a direct swap to the Delco.

Bolt it to the top of the factory mount, using a spacer or washers, then make a small tab from flat steel to bolt the stud on the other side of the alt to the bottom hole on the mount. I had to file the top side of the mount to make the alternator fit.

I used washers to align the alt pully with the rest of the serpentine system.

Wiring is easy. Here's how Trent explained it:
Wiring up the Delco meant ID'ing the PLF/IS connections on the clip and the pigtail. When assembling, F (field) & I (ignition) are the same pin. Here's how it went:

1. P gets wired to the white rover wire which feeds the tach. 2. L & I/F get joined to connect to the yellow rover wire. 3. S gets bold to stud on the back of the alt along with the 1/2 inch braided rover wire.


The wiring identifications are located on the pigtail clip - like i said, easy. I haven't soldered the wires yet - wanted to make sure it all worked. The crimp connections I used, including a three-way for the L, I/F, and yellow rover wire, are holding together.

It took some heft to twist the tensioner far enough to get the belt back on. Maybe locate a slightly longer belt later? The fan cover also needed a small notch to fit over the alt pully, which is about 1/2 to 1 inch higher than the old pully location.

After charging the battery, the Disco fired right up. The tach works, and I'm getting about 14 volts out of the system.

I can't make any guarantees about this conversion, as I'm no great mechanic, but it seems to be working fine. The battery is charging and electrical systems still working after about a week of use.
 

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This is really interesting thread, I am curios if anyone else on this site has tried this and if so if they have a little more historical information. Roverbot, have you tried to turn on all your electrical gear.....wipers, heater, defrost, etc... at idle?

Sounds like a great solution. I had a dead alt a couple of months ago and ended up buying a salvage alt off of newer model LR Disco1 for $100.00 bucks from Greenleaf auto salvage. They have warranty programs which gave me a bit of peace of mind but, this sounds like a good solution to high dollar problem.

Anthony
 

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I ran to work the other day with the defroster, heater, headlights and radio on. Seemed to charge just fine. One thing I am concerned about is the belt. I may try to re-align the alternator a little bit to reduce pressure from the belt tensioner.
 

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Solihull Society, CO and High Desert Rovers, NM
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My rig has been running an alt from a late 80's Caddy (sorry no more details) for at least 5 years.
 

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Hi Roverbot,
the reason asked the question about all the equipment running was specific to trying it while you are at idle. I read on some other LR forums from the link you provided that one concern was apparently some alternators do not charge at 14 volts at idle. i am really uneducated on the specifics of the electrical workings of alternators, beyond knowing that they need to be putting out 14 volts to charge. So I was hoping to learn from your labors about performance.


Thor,
Do you have details about the installation of your alt? I used to have one of those 80's Caddies and it sure makes sense that it would put out a good amount of Amps.

Anthony
 

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Solihull Society, CO and High Desert Rovers, NM
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I don't have any specific info, my mechanic does all my work, and the alt was there when I bought the rig. 140 amps sound about right?
 

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It does. I think that the stock runs about 100 AMPS....Although there are many on this site that can probably be much more accurate.

If this is correct then the 140 AMP would be perfect.

Anthony
 
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