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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have to say, I'm very happy with outcome. Compared to my Motorad 439-180 I'm seeing more stable temps. Temps are now 185-203 (Down from 195-221 max idle with dual AC on in Florida 97 degrees.) Cruising temps are now 19x. 80-90 mph i used to be in the 215 range now 200 + or - 5 degrees. I was able to install using only the BMW lower rad hose and cutting only one factory hose to water temp sender.
 

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Where did you source the petcock fitting installed in place of the original bleed screw? I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I couldn't find anything online I liked. This was in the "HELP" line at auto parts store under 1/8th radiator drain. Makes bleeding super easy. Honestly I think the the hole drilled in tstat you could be ok without petcock.
 

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When quoting temp changes from this mod, you have to be careful that you are simply not quoting the drop in temp through the heater circuit. The standard system attempts to keep the temp of coolant going through the heater as high as possible. It actually restricts other flow at idle. That is why you will often get higher temps at idle.

By doing the bypass you could be just bringing down the temp in the heater circuit (where the temp sensor for the ECU is located near) rather than actually changing the main running temp of the engine. You really need to understand where the temp sensor is and what it is actually monitoring before quoting changes at that point as being across the whole cooling system.

For those that may not realise, the heater core in your car has coolant running through it all the time, whether you actually have the heat idled up on the heater control. The heater control simple opens a flap that allows heat from the heater core to enter the cabin. It does not control the flow of coolant through the core as some other vehicles do.
 

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Have to say, I'm very happy with outcome. Compared to my Motorad 439-180 I'm seeing more stable temps. Temps are now 185-203 (Down from 195-221 max idle with dual AC on in Florida 97 degrees.) Cruising temps are now 19x. 80-90 mph i used to be in the 215 range now 200 + or - 5 degrees. I was able to install using only the BMW lower rad hose and cutting only one factory hose to water temp sender.
That's great!!! Good Job. I was thinking of doing this, however I pulled the trigger on the Soft Open "Desert Rated" 180 "Gray/Black" Thermostat and it has worked wonders for me. I actually haven't seen my Disco 2 hit 200 F not even while idling. The max i see at idle is 195 F. The electronic fan never turns on now and while driving I see 183-187 that's it! I'm really impressed.

I'm a newbie but have always loved LR finally at 30 years old I have my first but I did know of the cooling issues so I took care of it immediately!

Thanks!
 

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what's wrong with the factory setup? i run a factory setup with a 180 degree stat.. i run 188 while driving and 194 at idol.

truck has 190k+ on her
 

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what's wrong with the factory setup? i run a factory setup with a 180 degree stat.. i run 188 while driving and 194 at idol.

truck has 190k+ on her
That is the point. There is nothing wrong with the standard set up, as long as you change the thermostat to the later 180F ones.

We run the D2's in temps well above 100F on a regular basis and I not aware of anyone feeling the need to change the standard system.
 

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As I see it there is some confusion
The link flamandj referred to is (I believe) a factory setup non modified 180 thermostat.
I run a 180 degree non modified setup in my 2001 and never higher than 195 (extended idle) and normal 185 to 189

I am a firm believer in "if it's not broke don't fix it"
 

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Have to say, I'm very happy with outcome. Compared to my Motorad 439-180 I'm seeing more stable temps. Temps are now 185-203 (Down from 195-221 max idle with dual AC on in Florida 97 degrees.) Cruising temps are now 19x. 80-90 mph i used to be in the 215 range now 200 + or - 5 degrees. I was able to install using only the BMW lower rad hose and cutting only one factory hose to water temp sender.
Your operating temps are still too high and inconsistent with this inline-type of stat. What else have you replaced? There may be a fault with the radiator or fan clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Your operating temps are still too high and inconsistent with this inline-type of stat. What else have you replaced? There may be a fault with the radiator or fan clutch.
Radiator is a few years old. fan clutch is ok, but out of a 2001. Eventually will put an HD clutch on. My temps have been in the 190 range typically. Only time it goes above 200 is at idle in 100 degree heat for extended periods.
 
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