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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm hoping that I can get some troubleshooting guidance to get our 2003 Disco 2 running. To start we bought the rover about 18months ago not running and discovered that is was just a bac fuel pump. We replaced the fuel pump and we're able to get the rover running with the exception of a severe knock that quickly turned into a thrown rod.

We let it set for about a year and just replaced the engine with one out of the same year with less that 70k miles on it. The rover will turn over and occasionally sputters for a few seconds before dying. I get a rpm reading when trying to start the vehicle of appox 180rpm's which lead me to believe that the cps is functioning. I have fuel at the rail but don't know the exact pressure, and pulled one of the wires to confirm that I'm getting spark.

Are there any significant steps that I'm missing with regards to reprogramming, ect after an engine swap?
 

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That reading is too low, should be above 300 to start, you should try with a new crank sensor IMO, even if it's not that it's good to have a spare within reach anyway
 

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Sorry to do this again Sierrafary but I'm going to have to disagree with you. I know you run a diesel,
I don't think a crank sensor is the immediate fault. Especially not knowing the battery state and condition. Also the scan tool being used.

David013, you mentioned the truck has not run in over a year and has not run well in more than a year and a half. How familiar are you with these trucks?
Knowing that you have good fuel pressure AND good quality fuel would be a smart starting place in my opinion.

Also review that you have not missed anything on the engine swap (connector left unplugged, ground wire left off etc)
If you are confident that everything it put back together correctly and that you have good strong spark on All cylinders ( don't forger you have 2 separate coil packs -1 feelding each bank of cylinders)
you could try an external fuel source (such as propane or areosol such as brake parts cleaner into the throttle body. See if it fires on the external fuel source.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply. I have tried spraying some starting fluid into the intake which also didn't allow the vehicle to start which makes me believe that its not a fuel problem, although I was concerned as it was just topped off right before the thrown rod with 93 octane 16 months ago but does have a can of seafoam it to hopefully help stabilize the fuel. It seems this evening to chug more often and also more consistently although only for a matter of seconds. I'll validate the spark on both coil packs in the morning as a starting point.
 

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Sorry to do this again Sierrafary but I'm going to have to disagree with you. ...
No probs, we are all just trying to help :smile
I have a close friend with a V8 and found that kind of problem with my Hawkeye as it didnt start after an engine swap and the engine speed was up to 190 rpm then...the problem in his case was that the engine came off an automatic one and the sensor's spacer was too thick, we swapped the crank sensor with spacer from the manual one and fired on first attempt but the crank signal(engine speed) was above 300 from the beginning(didnt see it well cos it rose after the engine started) ... also if the crank signal didnt fail while the engine was running the ECU will not register a fault code... so that's why i said that
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here's the scanner output if this helps.


Pending Codes
P1514

P1668

Monitor Status
Monitor Name Monitor Icon Status
MIL (Check Engine Light) OFF
Misfire Monitoring Complete
Fuel System Monitoring Complete
Comprehensive Component Monitoring Complete
Catalyst Monitoring Not complete
Heated Catalyst Monitoring Not Supported
Evaporative System Monitoring Not complete
NMHC Monitoring Not Supported
NOxAdsorber Monitoring Not Supported
Secondary Air System Monitoring Not complete
Oxygen Sensor Monitoring Not complete
Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitoring Not complete
EGR System Monitoring Not Supported
Boost Pressure System Monitoring Not Supported
Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitoring Not Supported
PM Filter Monitoring Not Supported
 

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That P1514 = IACV(inlet air controll valve) opening coil malfunction and the relevant symptoms for you are:
In the event of an IACV signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed:
- Either low or high idle speed.
- Engine stalls.
- Difficult starting.

- Idle speed in default condition.
-Blocked IACV – rev/min error low (engine speed must be 100 rev/min less than the target speed, engine load less than 2.5 and the measured air flow more than 10 kg/h less than the expected air flow for a fault condition to be flagged).
... as we saw the engine speed lower than the target speed which should be somewhere close to 300

the P1668 might be the result of cranking but not starting cos it's about the immobiliser security code but if it was for good it shouldn't have cranked then

deffinitely the IACV needs to be checked IMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, We've replaced the CPS, and fixed an issue with the fuel pump. We've made progress as the Rover now starts and idles very roughly for a few minutes. The full diagnostic output for the current issues is below.


Engine/Transmission Diagnostic Trouble Code Information
MIL DTC
P1300

Stored Codes
P0301
Misfire - Cylinder 1
VIEW
P0303
Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0307
Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P1300

P1510

P1551

Pending Codes
P0134
Lambda Sensor Upstream Catalyst, Bank 1 - Signal Missing
VIEW
P1117

Freeze Frame Information
Parameter Description Results
DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P1300
Fuel System 1 Status Open Loop
Fuel System 2 Status Open Loop - due to detected system fault
Calculated LOAD Value 10.59 %
Engine Coolant Temp 123.80 °F
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 0.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 0.00 %
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 0.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 0.00 %
Engine RPM 850.00 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor 0.00 mph
Monitor Status
Monitor Name Monitor Icon Status
MIL (Check Engine Light) ON
Misfire Monitoring Complete
Fuel System Monitoring Complete
Comprehensive Component Monitoring Complete
Catalyst Monitoring Not complete
Heated Catalyst Monitoring Not Supported
Evaporative System Monitoring Not complete
NMHC Monitoring Not Supported
NOxAdsorber Monitoring Not Supported
Secondary Air System Monitoring Not complete
Oxygen Sensor Monitoring Not complete
Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitoring Not complete
EGR System Monitoring Not Supported
Boost Pressure System Monitoring Not Supported
Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitoring Not Supported
PM Filter Monitoring Not Supported
 

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Whoa!

The very first thing that you need to address is the catalyst-damaging misfire. You can't make any type of progress until you are running on all cylinders so from my experience I would go mostly in this order

Smoke test for vaccum leaks. You can also use a carbureator-type solvent if you know that method. check around the intake, brake booster, PVC areas. If you didn't use new intake gaskets then that may or may not be a contributor.

Make sure the coil-packs are bolted down at all 4 securing points: 2 in the bottom, 2 in top. I had misfires on brand new plugs, wires and intake gaskets because it wasn't bolted down securely at the bottom.

Check spark-plug wires one-by-one for continuity with a multimeter because then if you don't get spark after the wires are connected, you have narrowed it down to faulty coils in a quick manner.

Once you know the wires are good, check each spark plug using the grounding method. If you aren't getting spark on one plug, you can easily exchange it with another to see if a different plug will spark on the same wire and coil to eliminate a faulty spark plug or coil.

When you are certain there are no major vacuum leaks, that all plugs, wires and coils are in good, working order, move on to fuel pressure at the injector rail and while you are pulling the upper plenum, you check that it was seated properly and the gasket was holding pressure.

If your fuel pressure at the rail is over 40 then you need to check all of the injectors and/or pressure-test the cylinders.

I honestly hope you resolved the misfire at a bad coil or wire so that you aren't dissassembling the top-end.

If you have a compression gauge, you may even go ahead and test the cylinders after coils, plugs and wires if you didn't do that when you bought the engine

If you can get your hands on another idle air control valve that is known-to-be or guaranteed "good" then replace yours and see if that does anything but I would check everything that is free, first.

Spark at one wire doesn't mean you are good on spark and any fuel pressure whatsoever doesn't mean you have good fuel pressure. Give it fresh gas so that you can rule that out as an issue as well. Now get to work!

Multipe cylinder misfires are going to be root cause for most other fault codes, open loop monitoring, offline statuses, poor trim, O2 sensor faults, etc I wouldn't run this engine except a minute to check for vacuum leaks and after finding at least one thing that is faulty or out of order.

Is all of the secondary-air plumbing and valve work complete and intact?

Did you keep the old engine? Hopefully you have it on-hand so that you can quickly and easily swap parts if needed. A lot of stuff on the intake and ignition will probably work OK, especially for diagnosis purposes.
 

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The missing signal from the Bank 1 upstream oxygen sensor is worth a look.

Pending Codes
P0134
Lambda Sensor Upstream Catalyst, Bank 1 - Signal Missing
VIEW
P1117

If you have another to swap out - that is worth a try. Also, sometimes the O2 sensor wire or connection is not good.
No O2 signal for the engine managment system could be a reason for your problems.

Hope you find a resolution and let us know.

JK
 

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I had a similar problem on my Disco at ~80K miles, i.e. mis-firing on multiple cylinders. I chased down everything on the ignition side and nothing worked (new coils, plugs, wires). Scratching my head?!?!?!? On mine it turned out to be a worn camshaft. I guess some of the factory supplied camshafts were made from softer material and had an issue with the lobes wearing down/off prematurely. To check you can pull off the valve/rocker covers and watch the movement of the rockers as you turn the engine over. If I was to replace the camshaft again I would go with a Kent 180 high torque cam that can be obtained thru either Rimmer Bros or Turner Engineering UK. It supposedly adds ~20+ hp in the low/mid rpms. Good luck.
 
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