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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm currently searching the site for my answers, but in the mean while maybe I can get faster help by posting. I drove my disco home from work this afternoon, about 45 min, no probs. I get it in it to leave again it drives for about 200 feet and dies. At first it didn't run at all, and now it tries and dies. No rpms over 500, with little response from pressing gas, mostly some sputtering and popping sounds coming from intake. TPS, crankshaft sensor, stepper? What do u think. Thanx in advance.:dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Should I have fuel pressure at the valve on the rail, with engine off but key on? Is there a way to check if pump is getting power when key is on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, if I did it right, I put a lead from bat +, and lead to ground, on the posts on the fuel pump plug that would have the green/wht side of plug(being pos) and black side of plug(being neg). The pump never turned on. Is there another way to test the fuel pump to see if it's no longer working? Or did I do something wrong with my direct lead hook ups?
 

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There is a shrader valve on the pass side of engine on fuel line. Use fuel pressure gauge and look for 40lbs. pressure with key on and also with engine running. No pressure or low check fuel pump for volume. Inside frame on right rear wheel is fuel filter check for clog and can check flow if pump runs. Check fuel relay in fuse box in engine compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have no pressure at the valve key on or key off, and rover will not run at all. The fuse is good, but I'm not sure if I'm finding the correct relay. The only relay I can feel clicking when turning key on is on bottom row closest to fire wall. When I turn key on and run to the back I don't hear anything happening. That's why I tried to wire it direct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't know if I'm jump earring the fuel pump correctly. If I am then the pump is no good. Ocean say when I put my test light on the power wire and turn the key and run to the back, the light comes for 3-4 secs like it should. Does that mean the relay is ok?
 

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Light on for a few seconds is correct. Replacement doesn't take long just be careful taking off locking ring so not to destroy it unless you order another with pump. Don't forget external filter on frame by right rear tire, kit replacement might be necessary as line really degrade over time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did the cheap fix, by replacing pump only. It would prime but not start without priming a few times, and it was not holding pressure. Since most write ups in here were pointing towards fuel lines on pump housing, I pulled it back out and replaced the lines. Now it's holding pressure enough to crank, but the pressure is only 20 psi, which it could've been before it died, cause my lazy ass has never changed the filter, which I'll be doing today or tomorrow. I'll see if that helps the pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll hold on to it(why may I ask?) Update on pump, it's only holding pressure for a few hours, then bleeding down to 0 again. I have hard time leaning towards injectors leaking or bad regulator, since I've never had a problem like this before, the pump just stopped, nothing leading up to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've read all over this forum that I should have 30-40psi, and I've read where people are using the same pump replacement as I did, but I just read that pump specs out at 15-25psi. So why is everybody using that pump, and how are they getting higher pressures then me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Final update, I found an airtx pump that actually produces the pressure needed for a disco, I hooked it up and the pressure went to about 40, and my disco cranked on the first try, and maintained 30-35 psi while running. The pump number is E3240, and pump filter is FS30. Cheers
 
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