[floundering]

2001 disco2. 112k miles.
After sitting for a few hours the disco will keep unlocking itself as though the unlock/disarm button on the fob is being pressed. All interior lights come on, exterior lights flash, and doors attempt to unlock. Disco will continue to unlock itself repeatedly until battery is dead, if left to sit that long. I say attempt because 3/5 door lock actuators are toast. Bad ones are front pass and drivers and rear drivers side.

Things I've done so far (one at a time)...battery from fob removed.
RF receiver in headliner disconnected.
All door lock actuators disconnected. (one at a time, then altogether)
Pass compartment fuse box removed and checked for damage/corrosion.
Checked central door lock switch.
Checked all fuses, relays.
Removed fuses for IDM, removed relays for flashers, fuse for central door lock and still I get a click at pass compartment fuse box when disco is trying to unlock/disarm...

NO aftermarket alarm is installed.

So any suggestions??

 

[Disco Mike]

That is a first, I'll have to think on this.
BCU is the first thing that pops up for me.

 

[floundering]

Thanks DiscoMike.

2 TSB's from LR were issued. 86/01/01 was first and was replaced by 86/10/01.
First one was for BCU sleep-mode issues and rf interference. Solution was to replace BCU.
Few months later the replacement TSB was issued and RF receiver replacement was the solution. I spoke with my local LR dealer (2.5 hours away) and the service manager only recalled one similar scenario but it was on a 2001 RR and the solution was replacing the bad door lock actuators, front in his case.
I'm about to throw parts at it at this point but definitely open to suggestions!!

 

[floundering]

Any new thoughts discoMike???

 

[disco biscuit]

Do you remember one of the door lock actuators going out before. Still I haven't seen this problem on here in the shorter than disco mike time I've been here. Seems like others would be having similar issues if just the door locks going bad caused rapid fire unlock mode. It does sound like a bcm issue but odd the dealer claim. A short somewhere or bad ground could be another possibility. Dig through the rave manual find connections and figure out how to test the bcm. Surprised the dealer couldn't diagnose it or fix.

 

[floundering]

Do you remember one of the door lock actuators going out before. Still I haven't seen this problem on here in the shorter than disco mike time I've been here. Seems like others would be having similar issues if just the door locks going bad caused rapid fire unlock mode. It does sound like a bcm issue but odd the dealer claim. A short somewhere or bad ground could be another possibility. Dig through the rave manual find connections and figure out how to test the bcm. Surprised the dealer couldn't diagnose it or fix.

Door locks were bad when I picked this up. Right rear has been replaced somewhere along the line but not by me. Would buying a Nanocom make sense to try and diagnose the BCU problem rather than paying a dealer? Dealer states they would probably need 4-5 hours at least to diagnose (cost of a nanocom). And would the Nanocom allow me to program a new BCU if it needs replacing?

 

[disco biscuit]

If the dealer says he had this happen once and it was the actuators...I would prolly change all the bad actuators at once, then if it still is in rapid fire unlock hurry and disconnect all of them before it burns them up then move on. At least you know for sure you have to change all these actuators and it wouldnt be wasted money. What happens if you buy the nanocom...wouldnt you have to change the actuators to diagnose anything in the first place.Have you changed any actuators yet? I would start there...I guess. I still have problems seeing the actuators causing that particular problem. But if they're bad and ones sending some signal back to the bcm or is shorting out the circuit even if it is way downstream. Maybe I do think its possible...but without downloading rave and digging through it, I wouldn't know.

I also have no experience with nanocom or any other rover specific diagnosis equipment. Sorry. I believe it should reprogram the bcm if its one of the higher end ones I've read about. But that's a question for whoever's selling it. What I was gonna say is obd2 testing equipment probably wouldn't diagnose this particular problem. If there's no code there, the ability of that box being able to run its own preconceived test on every electric circuit in the system is very unlikely. However I haven't dove into this area of the rover so that just speculation. Judging by the dealers claim of hours to diagnose I would say that's an accurate statement.

 

[floundering]

I have not replaced any actuators. The Nanocom does allow one to lock/unlock doors, roll up/down windows with feedback. Nanocom will show a 12V signal as normal than a GROUND signal when a button is pressed to unlock. It also allows one to turn off the alarm function from what I've read. I feel that my problem is 100% alarm/BCU but it could be caused by bad actuators. Cost to replace 3 actuators new would be roughly $450 for parts. I don't need doors to lock, but I would like to fix the issue!!! So my thought is if I could turn off the crap that is causing this issue with the Nanocom, I should have the desired results while not actually FIXING anything.
I've read all I can in the RAVE and electrical circuits, checked headers, connecters, splices, you name it.

 

[disco biscuit]

Sounds like you've made your mind up. If you wanna cheap out on actuators, which is one of the things I would, contact one of the used parts people here. Window regulators and various parts like that are a safe bet and not critical. I guarantee you it won't be near that much. There's a few parts breakers in mikes SIG under his post.

The statement "without fixing anything" kinda rubs me the wrong way on this deal. What if the nanocom don't fix it. If it was that easy wouldn't they have turned it off at the dealer...or if they suck maybe an independent rover mechanic could just push a button on their nanocom and charge you 100$. I think you're headed in the wrong direction. Lock and unlock on the key is such a nice option. What if it somehow gets super locked without a key fob. Have you made sure this decision isn't gonna effect anything else. Not trying to ride you, just point out the obvious logical flaws in your current train of thought. I want a nanocom too(or similar) but every instance I thought I was gonna be able to justify one, the solution came from logical troubleshooting and some process of elimination parts changing. I think throwing parts at it for a min was a better alternative for you. Sounds like the mechanic knew what it was when he found out your actuators were fried. That's fairly convincing in my mind.

 

[floundering]

I doubt a dealer would turn off the alarm system for liability issues. I figure "not fixing anything" would be the same result as taking it to a dealer. I'm 2.5 hours away from the nearest dealer or indy LR shop, so I'm kinda stuck with DIY.

Nanocom will allow one to disable superlock in the BCU settings...and turn off sunroof controls etc. Almost all things are configurable. Which is cool. Still trying to justify one myself.

I talked to Paul Grant a couple weeks ago and I think he said $75 per actuator. About half price. I will probably go the door lock route at some point, but I just still think BCU. Here's a little more background, sometimes sunroofs work flawlessly, sometimes not. Turn off truck and restart and sunroofs may or may not work, do it again and the result is opposite. Same with front wipers... Took apart the wiper switch and cleaned, nothing got better. Ordered a wiper switch from Paul and it worked for a day. Now same issue with not being able to turn off wipers. Park switch tested fine.

This truck did not run at all when I bought it, and despite being told it was the crank position sensor, all of my troubleshooting led me to believe it was the fuel pump. I replaced the crank sensor to no avail. Fuel pump was the issue. I say all that because I still want ideas from those who have them.
So I appreciate your advice. My big reason for not being concerned about door locks is because I live in an area where I can leave my keys in the ignition and not worry. I haven't locked a car in over 10 years!!! Feels good.

 

[disco biscuit]

Used to be like that here. Now we double check locks. Well with the history it sounds like maybe your on the right track. You've gone past my experience. Hopefully someone will chime in. Maybe you could get the bcm from Paul or something. Good luck.

 

[KyleT]

This is not actuators. A d2 doesn't rely on the actuator like the p38's did.

I would put money on a bcu acting up. Also check the interior fuse box for corrosion.

 

[floundering]

This is not actuators. A d2 doesn't rely on the actuator like the p38's did.

I would put money on a bcu acting up. Also check the interior fuse box for corrosion.

Fuse box was checked and it was OK. Just went out to the truck and the lights were flashing (unlocking) every 10 seconds. Opened the drivers door and the lights stopped for about 45 secs to a minute and started flashing again with the door open. Every time I open the door the weirdness stops for that same duration but then comes back. I know there is a 45 sec delay when the drivers door is opened for adjusting seats (BCU). Not sure what else is control during that 45 secs....

 

[jafir]

I'd check the BCU for corrosion. Especially if you have sunroofs, or if the windscreen has been replaced.

I'm not sure if nanocom can program a NEW bcu, but it can certainly let you use a USED one. Sometimes brand new computers requires initial software setup that the cheaper scanners just cannot do. For example, if you put a used SLABS computer in a D2, you can use nanocom or hawkeye to program it. But a new out of the box computer requires some learning of things like wheel sensors and stuff that might require a better tool.

Where do you live? I have a nanocom, and would be willing to help someone close, maybe someone else would too.

(and I vote driver's door actuator or the wiring going to it from the body, as the problem)

 

[floundering]

I'm in northern Michigan...that's pretty close to Arkansas right??? I'm surprised a self proclaimed "computer nerd" like yourself has not developed a program for remote diagnostic troubleshooting. Plug in a laptop to the problem truck and let the nanocom or hawkeye access and configure from a remote location...I see a million $$ in your future.

BCU was removed a bit ago when removing the HVAC blower, no obvious corrosion. Jafir, when you said "wiring from the body", were you referring to the BCU or the truck body itself??

Would a replacement actuator actually have to be fully replaced/mounted in order to troubleshoot or just hooked up to the wiring connectors?

 

[jafir]

I was think more places where the wiring might get damaged like at the door. I'm just thinking out loud though, because I've never heard of the problem. But it kind of fits when you say it behaves differently when the door is open.

Some people have had problems where the alarm would re-arm when the driver door would close, before you could start the car. It was usually the actuator.


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[floundering]

Thanks Jafir. I just bought a used passenger compartment fuse box/IDM for $29. I'll try that and contact Paul for a drivers door actuator. If those don't fix the problem I'm in for a used BCU and a Nanocom, which I expect would be cheaper than driving 5 hours total and LR's diagnostic time. Plus I'd have a nanocom... Is the nanocom all it's cracked up to be?

 

[floundering]

One other random thing, the speed locking works sometimes and other times it does not. Just thought I'd add that to the list. Oh, and the reverse wipe works sometimes....

 

[jafir]

I don't want to make you throw parts at this problem because it will get expensive. But sometimes even the best troubleshooting only goes so far.

If you do decide to get a BCU, make sure it has less miles than what is on your odometer. It stores a back copy of the odometer. You can only sync the miles "up."

I love the nanocom. It's expensive, especially with the value of a D2 these days, but I honestly think it's worth it if you ever have to replace a key or a computer. You'll save the cost in about two trips to the dealer. The company is also working on and update for it, so eventually I'll be able to use it on my LR3.


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[disco biscuit]

That's a good piece of info right there.

Regarding the nanocom deal I think its definitely worth your while to research. I can't tell you the best one available and don't own one...but here's another option.

http://blackbox-solutions.com/products.html

My intentions aren't to argue one better than other...I too, hope to hear pros and cons of all available options as 700$ is a lot to spend on anything. I paid 400 for a program for my '10 TDI vw jetta that will change every single imaginable thing on the car. I knew going in, through research, every thing it and its competitors were capable of. I knew this program allowed the car to be completely hacked. I have researched and come up short of knowing every accessible features of each model in the land rover world, the info just don't seem to be there or be comprehensive enough for to make a valid choice...even from the manufacturers. It seems you just buy the one available for lr and deal with it. I have heard good things about blackboxsolutions and think I made my mind up it would be the one I went with. I can't remember the exact reasons...I think the decision was mostly made by a few here recommending it, one in particular was trusted opinion and had used both and preferred black box over the other.