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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So im trying to get past my Immobilizer and alarm issue. I don't have a Fobb and want to be able to lock the truck with just the key. 1 door at a time.

Right now when i lock using the key. The truck is immobilized and the alarm goes off. i leave it for a day or two unlock again and the alarm is off and truck runs fine.
im hoping if i cut the wires then there is nothing to set off the alarm but the lock mechanism will not allow the door to be opened untill i unlock it.


Has anyone ever just taken off the all door panels and cut the wires to the locks so its just a manual process?
Im hoping that doing this would fool the truck into not knowing weather or not it is locked? Good idea bad idea? anyone tried something like this
 

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Which Land Rover do you have?

Not sure what problem you have. I lock and unlock mine all the time with a key; wife has the fob. Are you saying that when you lock with a key the alarm goes off and continues to sound? Is that the problem?
 

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The D2 has key barrel only on the driver's door, how do you intend to lock/unlock the others with cut wires to the actuators?, you can simply disable the alarm/immobiliser with dedicated tester cos it seems you dont need them if you want to cut wires but this retains the central locking as to let you unlock all doors... to make it work with fob you need dedicated tester as well to synk it and eventually see why it wasnt working.... cutting wires is not the way to fix things on a D2 IMO
 

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It would be dealer-only. Or you can buy a used one. Maybe Ebay. Either way, they have to be programmed to the car by either the dealer or a specialty shop with a properly capable and configured scan tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Which Land Rover do you have?

Not sure what problem you have. I lock and unlock mine all the time with a key; wife has the fob. Are you saying that when you lock with a key the alarm goes off and continues to sound? Is that the problem?
Yea tyl604 thats exactly what happens - i lock and unlock using the key and then i can not start the vehicle untill i leave it for a day and turn the key to unlock again. then i can open the doors and start the vehicle no problem.

I Have a 98 D1 and my friend has a 2000 D2 with the same issue (he has the fobb and it does the same thing he will lock it with either the fobb or key and sometimes the alarm is still set of) we haven't locked our doors in a long time.

I want to either disable the alarm and immobilizer on my D1 or make it so the truck doesn't know when it is locked or unlocked (aka cutting the wires so it gets no signal of either?).
 

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Anyway you look at it, you're going to be visiting a professional with the tool needed to either properly repair the system or as Sierra wrote, disable the system. That is, unless you want to drop $4k on the tool.
 

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It's about connecting a proper tester which can comunicate with the D2's BCU and modify the factory settings to no alarm/immobiliser that's all, even some advanced multivehicle tools can do that so you'll have to find somebody who has it unless you want to pay a main dealer
 

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Any shop with a proper scantool can do this. The $4k is for my Snapon Solus with the import pack. I've never seen the Nanocom, but then again, I'm not shopping for a scantool.

I looked at it and it does list key reprogram. Sierra: is that a function of the system interface that allows immobilizer defeat?

OP: You're going to spend half the cost of this tool on a reprogram by a shop- and that's if you can find one that will work on your Rover. You're going to need a scantool in the future. Without question. This one will do WAAAY more than a $35 code reader and likely more than a all-makes unit that has advanced capability and costs in the $200+ range. You should consider it. I'm going to order one just so my son can keep it in his glovebox.
 

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On that nanocom site in the "downloads and support" section you can download the guide for what it can do in any ECU... in the BCU it can do more that testbook T4 main dealer's tool cos it can program used keys based on the short code from inside no need for the barcode, also it can record live data logs on SD card, upload fuel maps and used as instrument for engine sensor's monitoring ... IMO it's the most comprehensive tool for D2 on the market, see here https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads then download what you want to see, Valeo BCU for example: https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/download/valeo-bcu-disco-ii

here's how easy is the key programming: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zgjgt2ilEgE

i dont have shares in it believe me
 

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I was going to swing by and have a local independent code a used fob for my son's when I was out to see him a couple weeks ago. I don't like taking the scanner from the shop- surefire guarantee they'll need it. Anyway, I'm glad I forgot to take the fob- saved me $125 that's going towards ANOTHER TOOL!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Fery,

i can definitely see how that would be helpful for a DII but i have a DI, would this also work for my rig? i have a basic scan tool right now just for code checking and basic diagnostics might be worth looking into getting another one.
 

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Code checking is a big-box parts store's dream come true. It has an O2 code, so it must need all 4 sensors, right? $400 later, the problem is still there. There's a huge difference between codes and data. With our O2 example, they'll set a code simply because they are reading outside of a parameter programmed into the ECU. They're working fine and doing their job in alerting that something is out of spec. Reading data may tell you that the O2 is showing a lean condition which leads you to maybe finding that you have some dirty injectors, a plugging fuel filter, or maybe just got some bad gas.
 

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Fery,

i can definitely see how that would be helpful for a DII but i have a DI, would this also work for my rig? i have a basic scan tool right now just for code checking and basic diagnostics might be worth looking into getting another one.
So were we speaking about a D1 untill now in the D2 section without even knowing it? :eek all that was said untill now is valid only for D2 not the case for D1 as you didnt mention that in your first post cos then maybe a moderator would have moved the thread to the proper section., nanocom doesnt have tools for D1 only Hawkeye covers them but for key programming it's not so smart like nanocom though it should be able to disable the immobiliser but for D1 there are cheap ''invasive'' methods too depending on modell
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So were we speaking about a D1 untill now in the D2 section without even knowing it? :eek all that was said untill now is valid only for D2 not the case for D1 as you didnt mention that in your first post cos then maybe a moderator would have moved the thread to the proper section., nanocom doesnt have tools for D1 only Hawkeye covers them but for key programming it's not so smart like nanocom though it should be able to disable the immobiliser but for D1 there are cheap ''invasive'' methods too depending on modell
No worries Fery. Post #8 i mention that i have a D1 with this problem and my neighbor has the same problem with his D2 so everything is still valid lol!! and ill send him this thread so he can fix his thanks for all that info!!

As for the D1 what are these cheap invasive methods? i dont care if it never works again i actually prefer the imobilizer never ever bother me again haha. My Truck is a 98 D1 LSE 50th anniversary if that narrows down my options
 
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