You don't know what your talking about. ARB's are nice, but expensive and useless when your compressor takes a dump. Tru-Tracs are cheaper, transparent on-road and off-road they work exceptionally well, especially with the traction control. If you get a tire in the air and the TC doesn't catch it, just step on the brake and they lock right up. And for toughness? I had one in the rear of a 240 Volvo sedan (Dana 20) that I dropped a Ford 302HO into (400hp/300ft/lbs). I ABUSED that thing, and that Tru-Trac worked flawlessly.airlockers. Trus are nice but you don't really want them on the street. Air will let you keep the stockish ride. I would think there might be some crap to deal with when the traction control and the trutrac engage at the same time but I could be wrong.
Tru-Tracs front and rear. Least expensive, transparent on-road, great off-road, intall and forget, always work, tough. No brainer.Looking to install lockers myself after i do a front half CDL swap. What do u guys suggest would be better; TT front and rear, ARB front and rear, or a combo of both?
I'm mainly doing trails (mud/sand etc), going up steep inclines, and camping . Nothing as serious as rock climbing or anything. Also gonna put a snorkel on it and have "Cold Air Intake" stenciled on it for shits and giggles.Kinds of depends on the type of wheeling you do, how hard are the trails and your budget.
What will you be doing with your truck.
As for me, I run a T.T. in the front and a Detroit in the rear with H.D. axles and 4:11's.
For most people, T.T.'s front and rear are great, less expensive and will pull you thru most anything.
A solid locker is consistent and can be gotten used to to the over plow steering as it pushes a corner when in the rear. A true trac is intermittent and when a tire slips it differs power around so if the front is pulling your fine as soon as leverages change in rear it gets really weird.Can someone explain why they think TT's are worse in the snow/ice then the stok open diff's?