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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have become the proud owner of a 2000 110 300TDI HT. Great machine but there are one or 2 teething problems (arent there always!!)

1. The drivers side door doesn't seal properly. If you look through it you can see a shaft of light. It's about an inch above the bottom of the window and is about 3 inches big. Is there an easy way to seal this? (It's about to get bloody cold in Ireland!)

2. The drivers side window rattles a lot, even when fully closed. The passenger door doesn't do this.

3. The passenger door doesn't lock/open via the key but does work from the inside latch. Is there an easy way to fix this?

4. The rear window demister switch is broken. Had a look and it seems that there is a part missing (at least if you open the switch panel there is a gap that is enclosed between the switch and the rear panel). Anyone one know what this is? (So I can order the part! Sorry if this is not explained well!!)

Thanks all!!

bf
 

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1.Only Defenders built between 1983 and 2005 have leaky door seals. If the bottom of the door seems to be tight against the weatherstrip, giving the door a bit of a "twist" may bring in the upper edge. Mine weren't evenly tight against brand new weatherstripping. Duct tape the entire seam on the outside and climb in thru the other door might give you the best solution.

2. Not to bother about one window rattling, eventually they both will rattle.
In the meantime, check to see that the window trackss aren't worn out, or loose. You can take an ice pick, or awl, and find the selftapping screws holding the tracks to the frame, remove them, and reset them in another spot, 1/2" away is good, while moving the tracks inward, or outward, whichever tightens up the seal.

3. The outside lock tumbler is turning right and left OK, correct? Then you need to remove the interior panel and adjust the linkage to move the lock quadrant. The linkage may also have become detached from the tumbler stem. That not fixing the problem, refer to the method in 1, above. Lock the door from the inside, and climb out the other door.

4. The rear window heater switch is cheap. So are all the other switches. Throw it out and buy a new one. Or get someone to ride with you, holding the button in till the window is fog free.

And, Yes, Thank you for asking. I did have a big bowl of WIZASS for breakfeast
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1. Hmm....Mine built in 2000. Bugger. I have a big roll of Duct tape that I could use - but it's black and the Landy is green. Wouldn't match.

2. Mmmm...stereo rattling!

3. Might work, and to be honest the Dukes of Hazzard-ness of it appeals to me but the significant other it a little too vertically challenged to make this feasible.

4. Sourcing parts here (that the dealer doesn't add about 800% (no joke!) to) is the pain in the arse. Might see if I can get one posted. If not I could just take the window out and rely on the cage. But then again winter is coming!

Hmmm...might have to look into a change of cereal! :beer:
 

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Chilly here this morning too, so I had oatmeal instead of Wizass.

Matt Savage, in Ashborne (Derbyshire, +44 01629 55855, www.mattsavage.com) is quick to get stuff out. The switches are made by some French company (tho LR sources them from anybody) and As I recall, we had nothing but lousy luck on our old Peugeot wagon too. The problem with the one on my 110 is once pushed in, it's hell to get back out. Methinks a good toggle switch is in order.

Use enough Black Duct Tape and you could get that Zebra stripe effect so many others actually pay for.
 

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Only Landrover could get away with making such a quality (sic) product and still have owners raving about how good they are. :drive:
 
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