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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

After several trips to my Land Rover dealer (including numerous resets, pump/switch replacement etc), I still get an 'EAS Fault' message every few weeks, with the usual lowering to standard ride height. When this occurs, the back of the vehicle seems to jack up when parked (but not always). When I don't have a fault, at start-up, the vehicle will occasionally lean off to one side or another before eventually levelling. This thing has a mind of its own.

Other than performing an exorcism, I'm not sure what else can be done - I've had the EAS examined inside and out and spent big $$$ in a vain attempt to achieve peace of mind. I'm aware of the various emergency bypass products out there for hard fault situations, but this still doesn't solve the underlying problem, and the inevitable testbook visits to LR for lesser EAS faults.

Before I torch this impossible vehicle, I thought it might be worth trying the coil springs alternative (with EAS override). Has anyone out there converted their P38 RR to coil springs? Is this the way to go? Pros/Cons?

Even better, does anyone have a faultless EAS? If so, what is your secret? Does such an animal exist?

Cheers,
Rick.
 

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Hi Rick,
I had the same fault with my P38. On my Rangy the wires to the ride height sensors had corroded giving me an intermittent fault, My man at the garage had to rewire all the sensors and Bingo no more EAS faults, By the way it was a really interesting drive when one corner would jack up and the other corner would sit on the bump stops LOL

hope this is of some use to you pal

cheers
xboxy
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
xboxy - Thanks for the encouraging words. I'll ask my garage to check out those wires - fingers crossed. I'll hedge my bets and write to Santa as well!
Cheers,
Rick.
 

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Hi Rick,

We have fitted about 25 P38 Range Rovers with a Air Spring to Coil Spring Kit here in New Caledonia. All the owners have been very happy with the change. They can now go off around the island and know that the suspension will not let them down.

Cheers,

gemel.
 

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...never-ending alerts...

:confused

This situation sounds similar to the random and unexplained alerts I receive on my 98 4.6; "Traction Overheat Alert". Even if its cold outside with absolutely no chance / reason for overheating, I am often alerted to this irritating alert. It is very irritating and I wish that it would stop. oh well....
 

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The system is very simple, so it should not be hard to troubleshoot. Assuming you do not have any leaks, and the valve block and pressure sensor are working properly, there are really only a few basic parts. The ECU, which is in itself very reliable, takes input from the ride height sensors, and adjusts the air in each spring accordingly. You have to make sure the ECU is getting the proper data, and in your case it isn't. As xboxy said, it is most likely either the sensors or the connections between them and the ECU. A little meter work and you should be able to figure it out fairly easily!

I also strongly recommend a manual-bypass system for your RR if you keep the air springs. They are cheap (~$150.00) and can really give you some peace of mind. If you start having faults, you simply bypass valve block and fill the springs to whatever PSI you want, and ignore the EAS messages until you can have the system fixed.

-Coach
 

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EAS Replacement

I just finished 'playing' EAS myself. I agree the system is VERY simple, but cam have a few inherent downfalls that are difficult to assess without access to a testbook.

I replaced all 4 bags, the compressor (with a Thomas 337 for better duty cycle) and everything works great, with the slight exception that I need to replace a sensor, and recalibrate because my vehicle lists it as 'sensor out of range'. Apparently to even think about hooking it up to the testbook most RR dealerships around here charge about $250.

I am going to try to remove and clean the bad sensor and see what happens.

As for the Spring conversion, I have not performed it, but would consider it. Actually, hindsight, I probably should have done it instead of replacing the compressor and bags. I guess it all depends on how much you like/use the variability of the EAS. Good luck.

Keith
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you Gentlemen. You've all been a great help. I've booked my RR into LR tomorrow with a long checklist of helpful suggestions for the technicians. Will definitely get a manual bypass hooked-up, just in case (is M.A.R.S. pretty good?).

Cheers and 'Seasons Greetings' :drink1:
Rick.
 

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KARamsay said:
I just finished 'playing' EAS myself. I agree the system is VERY simple, but cam have a few inherent downfalls that are difficult to assess without access to a testbook.

I replaced all 4 bags, the compressor (with a Thomas 337 for better duty cycle) and everything works great, with the slight exception that I need to replace a sensor, and recalibrate because my vehicle lists it as 'sensor out of range'. Apparently to even think about hooking it up to the testbook most RR dealerships around here charge about $250.

I am going to try to remove and clean the bad sensor and see what happens.

As for the Spring conversion, I have not performed it, but would consider it. Actually, hindsight, I probably should have done it instead of replacing the compressor and bags. I guess it all depends on how much you like/use the variability of the EAS. Good luck.

Keith
where did you get the thomas compressor & how much & did it work & fit ok?
thanks,brian
 

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I hate to be the bearer of bad news but your air problems will only go away when you go to springs.

I switched to springs and I actually like the ride much better.
 
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