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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For those of you willing to read this long post and offer assistance, my thanks in advance. Full disclosure: I own a 2006 Range Rover Sport – not a LR3. I am a former Disco 2 owner, but the wife preferred the RRS over the LR3. Because the EAS is the same system, and the LR3 community is larger than that of the RRS…here I am (yes I have shared my issues and asked for help over in the RR community as well).

Because I’m deep into the issues at this point, I am not going to go into every symptom that I have experienced…but I will get you up to speed on what has been done so far (in order):

A) Attempted compressor rebuild, but snapped the 17mm bolt that holds in the ever troublesome exhaust valve.
B) Purchased a rebuilt compressor on eBay – trusting someone else to repair the part (oops)
C) Replaced the RR height sensor
D) Replaced tires (not related, but they are upsized (255/60r19) so any air dumps and I get some rubs

Current Issues:

1) Ride height is very low:
FL: 15 3/8” | FR: 15 5/8” | RL: 16 3/8” | RR: 17”
2) With the fuse removed, the system sags, albeit evenly. After 24 hours:
15 ¼” (-1/8”) | 15 ½” (-1/8”) | 15 ½” (-7/8”) | 16” (-1”)
3) At 48 hours, the front remained at the above heights, but the rear dropped another 1/8”
4) The ride is rougher than it should be
5) The compressor shuts off with the code for “reservoir filling slowly” and the reservoir immediately releases all pressure when this occurs. If I clear the code, the compressor kicks back on, the height DOES NOT increase, but the reservoir fills to 100psi, code pops, air dumps.
6) After my latest failed height calibration (again, the compressor cannot raise the vehicle enough without failing), the 4x4 screen shows my ride height slightly above the green line: which is not true – I’m low riding with larger tires…a great look.
7) When the air depressurizes a bit, the negative camber is quite noticeable. Don’t like that with new tires either…

Thoughts/questions:

* I need to bite the bullet and buy a new compressor, which should solve nearly all of my issues, right?
- I have a discount code at AB and am leaning towards OEM/Hitachi rather than AMK. Price and ease of installation are the reasons. I also am at 97k miles and the truck gets about 7500 per year. I do not really need 100k miles of worry-free driving…realistically only about 25k.

* Am I right to assume that the reservoir depressurizing is a fault with the exhaust valve on the compressor? I found no leaks using soapy water. The old P38s had a “diaphragm” issue at the valve block that caused this, but that’s different on the LR3/RRS, which leads me to:

* I know the front valve block is a weak point, and the fact that my front will not raise at all worries me, but the air loss indicates the REAR may be the bigger issues. Do I throw money at new valve block(s), or just replace the compressor and go from there? The front valve block seems to be a PITA to replace…but I have read that a faulty front block may even impact the rear…

I guess that’s about it for now. I have asked and asked about these issues, but unfortunately I think a specific diagnosis is very difficult when it comes to our EAS and it seems that throwing money and parts at the problem is the typical solution (not my favorite thing to do).

Thanks much in advance. It’s good to be posting here again. I loved this forum when I had my Disco.

PS

1) To those running Johnson Rods on a DD…any negative feedback? Seems to not be such a hot idea in the RRS community, but because of my slightly larger tires, I am tempted to get some so that if there’s another catastrophic failure in the EAS, the truck is still lifted off the bump stops. Yes I do see the two posts below this one. 

2) I hope this is due to my compressor issues, but I have had zero luck calibrating the ride height using RSW’s 4Dcan tool. This is no knock on the tool – it’s been extremely helpful getting me to where I am today. Any tips? I wish it was set in MM or inches rather than an arbitrary value. Seems to be more of a guessing game when calibrating rather than precise increments.
 

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I would just solve this by replacing the air suspension with the coil suspension system that AB has. Luckly my LR3 has not given me issues with the Air Suspension. But at 10 years old if the system was going to begin to fail at too many areas I would just switch to coils.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would just solve this by replacing the air suspension with the coil suspension system that AB has. Luckly my LR3 has not given me issues with the Air Suspension. But at 10 years old if the system was going to begin to fail at too many areas I would just switch to coils.
Dave
I've been tempted to do this...but two concerns:

1) It's my wife's truck and she likes stock (or as close as possible). I just get it for the weekends (why I didn't throw all-terrains on it like I wanted).

2) Resale value - although if we keep it for another 25k, it's probably near worthless anyway.

Oh and an update from the boss - she's back on her bumpstops again today. Fantastic!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
She gave me the ultimatum and was going to take the Rover to CarMax for a quote (luckily it's about 15 miles away and the truck was sitting on its bumpstops today.....wait - luckily??).

I am buying the compressor. Officially throwing money at the problem hoping to find a solution. One last chance for anyone with sage advice for me.....


(It's amazing how many suspension threads pop up on all of these forums - I feel the need to try and help now that it's been three months of just a terrible vehicle...my fault for ignoring the intermittent amber lights. Buy scanning software and a tool the day you buy your Rover. If you want to splurge, go with the IID, but buy it. Scans are your friend with these electrical piles of crap).

:grin
 

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I am also looking into buying the RSW software, since my 2006 D3 hit 120K. The RSW video said everything needs to be in working order before the software will work on the EAS. I myself am about to install a new compressor tmrw and try to clean out the front valve block before dropping a grand on that piece of plastic. I will let you how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am also looking into buying the RSW software, since my 2006 D3 hit 120K. The RSW video said everything needs to be in working order before the software will work on the EAS. I myself am about to install a new compressor tmrw and try to clean out the front valve block before dropping a grand on that piece of plastic. I will let you how it turns out.
Good luck!

I decided to just order the compressor and lift rods for now. Figured the 10% off a $150 valve block wasn't worth ordering it now just to find out that the compressor is the cause of my issues.

I used RSW to get the truck off of bump stops last night, but the wife reports that it's back down today but the fault is only occurring while in motion. Very odd. I sure hope there isn't an electrical issue hiding within the harness.
 

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I've seen these for sale. It's "OEM" in the sense that it matches the spec of the OE compressor. Land Rover is installing AMK compressors now in lieu of the out-going Hitachi. Please let us know how the Dunlop looks and performs. Several of us were curious about it a few months back...especially those of us who have RS Sliders and were struggling to fit the beefier AMK in that spot with our sliders covering it.
 

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1) Ride height is very low:
FL: 15 3/8” | FR: 15 5/8” | RL: 16 3/8” | RR: 17”
2) With the fuse removed, the system sags, albeit evenly. After 24 hours:
15 ¼” (-1/8”) | 15 ½” (-1/8”) | 15 ½” (-7/8”) | 16” (-1”)
3) At 48 hours, the front remained at the above heights, but the rear dropped another 1/8”
4) The ride is rougher than it should be
All of the above could be a result of a bad calibration. If you replaced a height sensor, it definitely needs to be properly calibrated before the suspension will function "correctly". I realize you can't do this with the current state of your compressor, so I think you're approaching the problem in the right order... get the compressor fixed first and then calibrate and then begin worrying about the above.

5) The compressor shuts off with the code for “reservoir filling slowly” and the reservoir immediately releases all pressure when this occurs. If I clear the code, the compressor kicks back on, the height DOES NOT increase, but the reservoir fills to 100psi, code pops, air dumps.
6) After my latest failed height calibration (again, the compressor cannot raise the vehicle enough without failing), the 4x4 screen shows my ride height slightly above the green line: which is not true – I’m low riding with larger tires…a great look.
Right. The suspension will not be able to raise the chassis without sufficient pressure in the system. I can't remember exactly, but I'm pretty sure the stock pressure is somewhere in the 200-250psi range. I doubt it would raise correctly if at all with only 100psi in the system.

Thoughts/questions:

* I need to bite the bullet and buy a new compressor, which should solve nearly all of my issues, right?
- I have a discount code at AB and am leaning towards OEM/Hitachi rather than AMK. Price and ease of installation are the reasons. I also am at 97k miles and the truck gets about 7500 per year. I do not really need 100k miles of worry-free driving…realistically only about 25k.

* Am I right to assume that the reservoir depressurizing is a fault with the exhaust valve on the compressor? I found no leaks using soapy water. The old P38s had a “diaphragm” issue at the valve block that caused this, but that’s different on the LR3/RRS, which leads me to:
Tough to say without more info, but the air dumping is probably just the result of an EAS system error. Certain errors release all the air and bring you to your bump stops. This is not a fault with the exhaust valve, but rather just the way the system was designed to operate. Are you able to read codes stored in your ECU? Do you get a red suspension icon on the dash when this happens?

* I know the front valve block is a weak point, and the fact that my front will not raise at all worries me, but the air loss indicates the REAR may be the bigger issues. Do I throw money at new valve block(s), or just replace the compressor and go from there? The front valve block seems to be a PITA to replace…but I have read that a faulty front block may even impact the rear…

I guess that’s about it for now. I have asked and asked about these issues, but unfortunately I think a specific diagnosis is very difficult when it comes to our EAS and it seems that throwing money and parts at the problem is the typical solution (not my favorite thing to do).
It's difficult because there are a lot of components to the system, but once you examine a drawing of the EAS and understand how everything is supposed to work in concert, you can begin to develop a plan of attack. The valve blocks are, I suppose, weak points of the system, but generally their failure is the result of system contamination. Typically, this is in the form of broken down dryer desiccant from the compressor that has pulverized itself into a fine dust and spread throughout the system (and all over the o-rings in the valve blocks). All together, there are actually three valve blocks, a front, a rear, and a reservoir block (located with the compressor).

1) To those running Johnson Rods on a DD…any negative feedback? Seems to not be such a hot idea in the RRS community, but because of my slightly larger tires, I am tempted to get some so that if there’s another catastrophic failure in the EAS, the truck is still lifted off the bump stops. Yes I do see the two posts below this one.
I don't use Johnson Rods because I don't want to drive around at +2.5" all day, every day. However, I do run at about +25-30mm normally through the use of my Gap IID tool. I can feel a little more body roll at this height, but it's nothing to be worried about. Car still feels and drives great. Some people worry about the wear and tear on the CV joints due to the extra articulation of running lifted all the time. I've been under the truck and examined the angles when running at +2-2.5" and I honestly don't think it's an item of concern, but who knows... maybe I'll find differently in 50,000 miles. :p

2) I hope this is due to my compressor issues, but I have had zero luck calibrating the ride height using RSW’s 4Dcan tool. This is no knock on the tool – it’s been extremely helpful getting me to where I am today. Any tips? I wish it was set in MM or inches rather than an arbitrary value. Seems to be more of a guessing game when calibrating rather than precise increments.
You won't be able to calibrate properly until you get the right pressure in your system... 250psi or whatever it is. Fix the compressor first, then worry about calibration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just wanted to drop in and close this thread out. Seems like there are countless new EAS threads on this and RR.net. Well here's how to fix it once and for all:

Buy a new compressor.

Compressor + Johnson Rods installed yesterday. Since this was my 3rd compressor, I'm getting pretty quick at the swap. Whole thing took under 3 hours and the Rover is a new beast. The aggressive stance looks stock and the upsized tires (255/60r19) don't come close to rubbing.

My wife always says "buy nice or buy twice" and that's the truth. $700 upfront would have saved me a rebuild kit ($70ish?) and a "rebuilt" compressor ($250). I now have two old broken compressors for sale however. Hope to recoup some of that.

Oh and with the rods at off-road height, the rear deck is about at my waist. Pretty cool for camping etc. Won't be all that cool when one of our old dogs tries jumping in. Funny? Maybe...

I am going to recalibrate the height this weekend and take it in to an indy for an alignment this week. This spring I may need to replace the struts or sway bushings as all of this time with no air may have killed those - the ride is less luxurious than at purchase. That said: the Rover works again and we are happy. 3 months of issues solved.

So to all you noobs out there: don't ignore intermittent amber suspension lights for months. Rebuilding a compressor sounds great in theory, but just buy a new compressor and save months worth of headaches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
1) Ride height is very low:
FL: 15 3/8? | FR: 15 5/8? | RL: 16 3/8? | RR: 17?
2) With the fuse removed, the system sags, albeit evenly. After 24 hours:
15 ¼? (-1/8?) | 15 ½? (-1/8?) | 15 ½? (-7/8?) | 16? (-1?)
3) At 48 hours, the front remained at the above heights, but the rear dropped another 1/8?
4) The ride is rougher than it should be
All of the above could be a result of a bad calibration. If you replaced a height sensor, it definitely needs to be properly calibrated before the suspension will function "correctly". I realize you can't do this with the current state of your compressor, so I think you're approaching the problem in the right order... get the compressor fixed first and then calibrate and then begin worrying about the above.

5) The compressor shuts off with the code for ?reservoir filling slowly? and the reservoir immediately releases all pressure when this occurs. If I clear the code, the compressor kicks back on, the height DOES NOT increase, but the reservoir fills to 100psi, code pops, air dumps.
6) After my latest failed height calibration (again, the compressor cannot raise the vehicle enough without failing), the 4x4 screen shows my ride height slightly above the green line: which is not true ? I?m low riding with larger tires?a great look.
Right. The suspension will not be able to raise the chassis without sufficient pressure in the system. I can't remember exactly, but I'm pretty sure the stock pressure is somewhere in the 200-250psi range. I doubt it would raise correctly if at all with only 100psi in the system.

Thoughts/questions:

* I need to bite the bullet and buy a new compressor, which should solve nearly all of my issues, right?
- I have a discount code at AB and am leaning towards OEM/Hitachi rather than AMK. Price and ease of installation are the reasons. I also am at 97k miles and the truck gets about 7500 per year. I do not really need 100k miles of worry-free driving?realistically only about 25k.

* Am I right to assume that the reservoir depressurizing is a fault with the exhaust valve on the compressor? I found no leaks using soapy water. The old P38s had a ?diaphragm? issue at the valve block that caused this, but that?s different on the LR3/RRS, which leads me to:
Tough to say without more info, but the air dumping is probably just the result of an EAS system error. Certain errors release all the air and bring you to your bump stops. This is not a fault with the exhaust valve, but rather just the way the system was designed to operate. Are you able to read codes stored in your ECU? Do you get a red suspension icon on the dash when this happens?

* I know the front valve block is a weak point, and the fact that my front will not raise at all worries me, but the air loss indicates the REAR may be the bigger issues. Do I throw money at new valve block(s), or just replace the compressor and go from there? The front valve block seems to be a PITA to replace?but I have read that a faulty front block may even impact the rear?

I guess that?s about it for now. I have asked and asked about these issues, but unfortunately I think a specific diagnosis is very difficult when it comes to our EAS and it seems that throwing money and parts at the problem is the typical solution (not my favorite thing to do).
It's difficult because there are a lot of components to the system, but once you examine a drawing of the EAS and understand how everything is supposed to work in concert, you can begin to develop a plan of attack. The valve blocks are, I suppose, weak points of the system, but generally their failure is the result of system contamination. Typically, this is in the form of broken down dryer desiccant from the compressor that has pulverized itself into a fine dust and spread throughout the system (and all over the o-rings in the valve blocks). All together, there are actually three valve blocks, a front, a rear, and a reservoir block (located with the compressor).

1) To those running Johnson Rods on a DD?any negative feedback? Seems to not be such a hot idea in the RRS community, but because of my slightly larger tires, I am tempted to get some so that if there?s another catastrophic failure in the EAS, the truck is still lifted off the bump stops. Yes I do see the two posts below this one.
I don't use Johnson Rods because I don't want to drive around at +2.5" all day, every day. However, I do run at about +25-30mm normally through the use of my Gap IID tool. I can feel a little more body roll at this height, but it's nothing to be worried about. Car still feels and drives great. Some people worry about the wear and tear on the CV joints due to the extra articulation of running lifted all the time. I've been under the truck and examined the angles when running at +2-2.5" and I honestly don't think it's an item of concern, but who knows... maybe I'll find differently in 50,000 miles. :p

2) I hope this is due to my compressor issues, but I have had zero luck calibrating the ride height using RSW?s 4Dcan tool. This is no knock on the tool ? it?s been extremely helpful getting me to where I am today. Any tips? I wish it was set in MM or inches rather than an arbitrary value. Seems to be more of a guessing game when calibrating rather than precise increments.
You won't be able to calibrate properly until you get the right pressure in your system... 250psi or whatever it is. Fix the compressor first, then worry about calibration.
Thank you for the responses - very helpful for those who are bound to ask the same EAS questions daily.
 
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