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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have a Land Rover shop in Northern Thailand
We service all types of Land Rover
We have just had a customer tow in a Disco 2 Td5 2003
He smashed his remote in the door jam--only has one of course
Can get in but engine immobilized
Put in EKA and checked with LR that it is right EKA and still can’t get the immobilizer to release its devilish hold.
We have T4 and Hawkeye and another Omitec diagnostic scanner but Hawkeye and Omitec will not connect with security but will connect with other functions-Have not tried T4 yet
If it was Disco 1 we can override easily
Any suggestions would be welcomed
Clive
 

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No tester will communicate with the BCU while it's immobilised, the EKA can be changed with tester and as some codes have too big numbers like 14, 15 etc in them it's possible that one of it's owners asked for that and it's not the original one, in this case the only way is to replace the BCU and sync/set the replacement to the car's equipment cos the immobilised one is good for garbage.
 
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Is that a function of "superlock " mode?
Would a hard reset possibly reset it?
I have been using the keyhole and my key fob on the key has not worked since I had the truck. Works fine.
A hard reset might be worth a try
 

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There's no such thing as "hard reset" for D2 believe me, if youe fob doesn't work your car has the immobiliser disabled that's a fact. A D2 with working immobiliser is unstartable if the fob doesnt communicate with the receiver
 

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Sorry to disagree sierrafery and no I do not "believe you" about the hard reset.

The way I see it a smashed Immobilizer should be no different than a dead or missing one.
You are saying that a vehicle will be unstartable if the fob does not communicate with the receiver, and if the fob is missing / broken then this function is disabled.
This one is history, smashed to pieces I assume.
The way I see it is how to disable the system may be the real question.
And
If you cannot get into security with your scan tool.......
Try a hard reset��

Anyone not familiar with hard reset
Discontect both terminals from the battery
Hold both positive and negative cable ends together making a good contact for about 5 minutes.
Holding them together will discharge all capacitance from all systems allowing a complete erase of any keep alive memory.
Reconnect battery, unlock drivers door with the key, attempt to start the vehicle.

DEFINATELY worth a try and can't hurt anything. Believe me������
 
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I'm up to have a friendly chat about that and i dont want to offend with my demonstration, the D2 is a very special one and it's immobiliser is unique compared to other L.R.'s, so one by one:
You are saying that a vehicle will be unstartable if the fob does not communicate with the receiver, and if the fob is missing / broken then this function is disabled.
This one is history, smashed to pieces I assume.
The way I see it is how to disable the system may be the real question.
What i meant is that if the D2 is on factory settings and the immobiliser was not disabled with tester in the BCU settings by the owner smashed/missing fob or failed receiver will make it startable only using EKA code provided it's the good one and accepted by the BCU as in the insert procedure... no other way, te fob sends a signal to the receiver on passive remobilisation exciter coil request(around the key barrel) and without that signal the vehicle stays immobilised
If you cannot get into security with your scan tool.......
Try a hard reset
....Holding them together will discharge all capacitance from all systems allowing a complete erase of any keep alive memory. Discontect both terminals from the battery.......
Reconnect battery, unlock drivers door with the key, attempt to start the vehicle..... worth a try and can't hurt anything.
IMHO that "hard reset" when it comes to a D2 is a false myth and has no technical or scientific backup , all the ECU memories of a D2 are EEPROM type which is not affected by residual capacitance whatsoever on the contrary disconnecting battery on a not previously unlokced/disarmed vehicle is not recommended for vehicles equipped with OBD protocols cos it can lead to loss of on board "domestic' memory(not EEPROM), so it will not help with the immobiliser which is in BCU's EEPROM, any EEPROM is erasable only with dedicated software for that, disconnecting the battery it's an accepted method only for older vehicles with rudimentary electronics, if it happened to help with a D2 in some cases it was some coincidence with something else which was not noticed or neglected... the web is full of well sustained scientific arguments for that, one example from many How to Reset a Car Computer | DoItYourself.com
also disconnecting the battery on a immobilised D2 will trigger the alarm, so will that "unlock with key" thing IF the settings in the BCU are factory mode(which is "key never") and it wasnt set by the owner to "Always disarm with key"

i've spent 5 years in a ''old school" college 6 hours a day 6 days a week with the teachers learning applied electronics(for aircraft avionics) and this D2 electronics thing is my hobby so better believe me though :wink
 

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When you put in the EKA did you get either the horn or the BBUS to beep? if not what is the led on the dash doing? the timing of the flashes will tell you the state of the alarm system.
Also if the battery is not fully charged and the drivers door key lock is not returned to center every time them the EKA will not work - that's why you have the beeeps.
cheers
Barri
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
answering your Q's
There are no beeps at all
Led flashes fast after EKA code inserted then goes to flash every 2-3 secs
For your info I have received the following advice from Nick at www.discovery2.co.uk

"As you have found once the immobiliser is activated, then without a working key fob the transponder part of it that excites the coil in the ignition lock won't send a signal to allow the bcu to accept an eka code.
If the remote is smashed beyond any function, then the only answer would be a spare working key, or to replace the bcu which has a key already programmed to it. This is a function of the security system to not allow any key programming whilst the immobiliser is active.
So, my suggestion would be a "used" replacement bcu (body control unit) and key fob. I must stress if you source one from a salvage vehicle that was immoblised when the power was removed, then the bcu is useless and is in a locked out state and cannot be ever used"
 

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As you have found once the immobiliser is activated, then without a working key fob the transponder part of it that excites the coil in the ignition lock won't send a signal to allow the bcu to accept an eka code.
That's completely wrong, cos the EKA is especially for the fob or receiver failures, an accepted EKA by the BCU would make the car startable with a failed roof receiver or non working fob that's the gist of it and it's description:"If the handset fails to operate, the engine can be remobilised by using the key to enter a unique four digit Emergency Key Access (EKA) code.", and one way to the fob to fail to operate is by being smashed ;) also that quoted statement is against all logic cos it implies to have a working fob in the ignition which means that the car was already unlocked with fob and not immobilised or even if it is immobilised how would you insert the EKA while the key is in the ignition ???
that remobilisation exciter coil is to make the car unstartable without the original fob in case it's left unlocked that's all, and the coil excites the fob to send a signal to the receiver not vice-versa

what's a good advice is that if you can't manage to remobilise it with EKA replace the BCU...but i think i've already said that
 

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the EKA should over ride the need for the fob - thats what it is for.
I have attached the procedure for you just to confirm that you are doing it as per the book - the beeps and the timing is critical.
Can you confirm that you are doing it exactly like the procedure and you still get no beeps?
If that is so then something else may well be wrong
Please let us know
cheers
Barri
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Barri
Just to help understanding-we are servicing and repairing Disco 2's quite often at our shop and we have all diagnostics 2 of which we can use for programming.
This is the first time we have come across this problem where the EKA is correct for the VIN# but we get no blips when entering the EKA code. Even if its the wrong code or the code is entered in the wrong way you should get blips.
One possibility is EKA code may have been changed in past and no records kept.
We also notice that the smashed remote does show red signal light when pressing either of the buttons but pressing has no effect on the receiver in the vehicle.
Clive
 

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Thanks for the info Clive good to know you know the process
even if the EKA code had been changed you should get beeps or see the LED speed flash get quicker for a few seconds.
No beeps points to some other problem associated more with the BCU and the receiver.
Have you tried using the drivers door lock instead of the computer to enter the codes?
Im sure you know that the power split requires a 12v feed from the drivers door lock feed to the bcu - have you checked that when the fob smashed the door lock feeds fuses didnt blow - that could be one reason for not getting any beeps
It could also account for why you get no response to the fob - when the light flashes on the fob you are sending a signal as the led light on the fob is the last step in the send logic so you know the signal is sent - just not received which would indicate a problem with the receiver not the sender.
I would concentrate first on your receiver in the truck and the power to the bcu from the front door lock feed first and make sure both are getting power. without a beep showing you can initiate the EKA the system probably isn't primed to accept the code.
cheers
Barri
 

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Guys, i know this system by heart, the signals from the door lock switch to BCU are both earth not feeds, if there is no beep while using the key in the lock there are the following possibilities:
- the earth input doesnt reach the BCU
- the door lock switch doesnt close either way(quite unlikely)
- there's earth missing to the door lock switch
- the BCU is missing feed or earth
- the alarm is set to silent
- the alarm is set only to horns or own sounder or BBUS(not all) and the one it's set on is not working
- the BCU is fubar'd
to check that beep thing you have to give earth for 5 seconds with a wire to BCU connector C0661 pin 22 somehow with everything connected and if no beep it's one of the last 3 scenarios i wrote... if you dont have RAVE see connector details download this https://www.dropbox.com/s/l91909h3d...ectrical Library (LRL0529ENG 3rd Ed).pdf?dl=0

i hate to always contradict people but for a proper diagnose it's good to have accurate info, i want only to help... the fact that the LED is working on the fob doesnt mean it's transmitting signal, it's connected to the PCB feed not to the RF output
 
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