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Hi - my seat controller doesn't work anymore whilst my driver seat is blocked in an uncomfortable position. The wiring is complex and requires a PHD in electronics - 2 garages haven't been able to find the fault so far.
Is there a way to mechanically adjust the seat using a tool - to put it back in the good position (e.g. e.g. using the allen key)? Any other suggestion apart from applying for an Electrical Engineering degree?
 

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Typically this is a bad seat switch. Swap the switch with a known good one. OR you can apply power to the individual motors if memory serves
 

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You can't adjust the seat with tools, you need to power up the proper motors to set it right, you need a skilled electrician who can work with the diagram not electronist cos the scheme is not so complicated also the RRC has a clear troubleshooting guide for seats... if you feel handy to that i can tell you how to power up the motors, it's only about unplugging the switch and work from there with a feed and earth... provided the motors or the loom are not shot cos the motors are hardwired to the switch ... unless it's the memory seats version then that's a bit more complicated cos the motors are managed by the memory seat ECU not directly by the switch

if you want to go for it just tell is they are memory seats(which means it's an ECU underneath the seat) or simple ones
 

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OMG what a hassle ..

Any Alternative for a utilitarian seat which slides back and forth up and down ?


My seat is now refusing to tilt all the way back like it did before...
 

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You don’t need a PhD
But you do need to find a true mechanic ( not just a part replacer)😉
Or you could try as Army suggested and switch out the switch and see what happens.
If all you want to do is move the seat to the desired position you could energize the motors independently and get them to move ( some experience but no PhD required)🤓
 

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Unplug the wiring for the motor assembly (four motors right under the bottom of the seat) from the wiring harness that leads up to the switched on the seat. Pull the plug that comes from the motor assembly at the front of the seat out from under the seat as far as you can (you may need to snip a zip tie to release the wiring from the underside of the seat). Apply 12 volts to each of the four pairs of electrical pins (a small battery jumper works great for this). You will see two rows of four pins the two that are across from each other control one seat motor. Test them and you'll figure it out.
 

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I, literally yesterday, was forced to move the seats on a RRC I'm parting, in the way I just described. It worked perfectly. All four seat motors were working but the seat switch had failed. The seat switch was completely missing do I had little alternative. So, I took my handy battery jump starter and used a couple of wires to apply 12 volts to the prongs on the seat motor plug. Not only was I able to move the seat back to I could access the front bolts securing the seat to the floor but when it came to moving the seat forward to access two bolts per side on the back, I was also able to raise the seat height as well.

No need for a skilled electrical technician or schematics. In all, it took a matter of minutes and the seat was out of the truck. This was probably the 100th time I had to do this in order to remove a seat with a bad switch.
 

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No need for a skilled electrical technician or schematics. In all, it took a matter of minutes and the seat was out of the truck.
The only problem in this thread is that the OP let it go and didnt come back to it and that it was about fixing a non working thing not about removing a seat ... to fix that kind of system you need skills and schematics believe me or not, especially if they are the memory seat system which is controlled by an ECU.
 

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I can agree with you if the seat had memory but if it's the type of non memory seat that was found on the vast majority of Range Rovers, it's not a mystery to trouble shoot them. If a person, trying to isolate the issue did what I did, it would rule out any question about the seat motors and the reduce the issue to either the harness or the seat switch. With the ability to remove the seat, the harness can be inspected to see if there is any damage and the seat switch can easily be removed for disassembly and cleaning. No need to over complicate the issue.

If it's in a Range Rover with the seat ecu, the seat can be moved, exactly how I instructed. With the seat out, the ecu can easily be removed and opened. If the circuit board shows damage from a leaking battery (the most common form of failure with the ecu) there are alternatives ranging from replacing the ecu with one available from a couple of vendors (have one in particular who I can recommend who actually repairs the boards) to bypassing the ecu....enter someone with a little technical ability now, please.

So really, the only area where anyone who is reasonable handy with working on their truck would need an electrical background, would be in dealing with the seat ecu issue or when trying to effectively bypass it while still keeping control of the power mirrors.

Now, all the original poster was really looking for was a way to manually adjust the seat so he could use it without, as he stated "applying for an Electrical Engineering degree." The method I provided, did precisely that. No need to make things more complicated than they need to be.
 

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I should also mention that a '92 Range Rover more than likely did not have seat memory. There were a handful of Lightstone Classics sold in the US (Land Rovers largest market in the world at that time) that came with seat memory but the rest of the '92 MY had the simple power seat set up. I don't know where RegW is located but I would safely say it was the same for the ROW. It wasn't until MY '93 that we saw significant numbers of Classics appear with 2 position seat memory.
 

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The OP may come back. His last post was only two weeks ago. Hope so; I get frustrated when something gets resolved but it does not get written up for the rest of us.
 

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As another aside, if this problem with the seat had happened on a '95, the way the seat was mounted to the floor was changed. All prior Range Rover models with power seats had a total of six bolts, three per side, securing the seat to the floor. Inevitably, one or more bolt would be blocked because of the location of the seat on its rails. That would force the owner to employ my technique for moving the seat for access to whatever bolts might be covered.

On the '95 MY RRC, Land Rover thankfully changed that design. There are only four bolts securing the seat to the floor. Two small 10mm bolts up front that are accessible regardless of the seat position and two torx bolts in the rear that are not covered by the seat or bolted through the rails. Essentially, this was the way all Discovery models with power seats were installed from 1996 through 1999. Seeing the improvement with the '95 Range Rover I always wondered why Rover chose the method they did for trucks made from '87-'94. It was such a stupid design.
 

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Take the switch off the vehicle, get a large bowl, open the switch in the bowl..it is full of ball bearings. clean it out and use dieletric grease to set the balls where they were/go.on the little springs.you"ll figure it out. then it will work. It just gets dirty inside most of the time.
 

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Take the switch off the vehicle, get a large bowl, open the switch in the bowl..it is full of ball bearings. clean it out and use dieletric grease to set the balls where they were/go.on the little springs.you"ll figure it out. then it will work. It just gets dirty inside most of the time.
It may work out to be that simple a fix.

However, on a '93 with seat memory, the problem may reside in the seat Ecu, not the seat switch. This is why I mentioned examining the seat Ecu to check the condition of the battery and to insure that the battery has not leaked onto the circuit board.
 

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Easy enough to check...put in neutral? key on, and hit the seat memory button. It wont work while driving for safety..it should move mirrors and seat to last position it remembers. if not check the relays fuses and then look at the seat ECU.. my seat switches were not working when I purchased my 94 rrc. but when i tried the seat memory it moved them just fine, then I looked at the switches springs and ball bearings, it was so dirty in there that no contact was being made worked for 5 years then they were dirty again, lost only forward back movement. So cleaned again, works fine. the seat switches are positioned so every bit of dirt and other things, coffee soda, etc, go right in there..
 

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Thats true, I thought I read some switches worked? in any case you are correct. The ECU can be a problem, in the 5 I have owned however The ECU was not the culprit..I bought a part from you Paul Grant. Thanks.
I just ordered new rebuilt lt230 from Ashcroft for my 94 RR with the ATB center diff and steel flanged housing. Cant wait... now to figure out those switches on the lt 230 for my Borg Warner wiring.
 
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