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· 1993 range rover lwb - Roman Bronze
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, Its about that time for me to replace my ECU. How do I know? The check engine light will not go off, when Im at a light, the rovers RPM goes below 1000 and acts like it wants to shutoff..I just got a tune up. I found a good deal on a used ECU but I do not know where it is located on a 1993 range rover county. Can anyone help me? Pictures would be a great help.
 

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First of all, Ali, if the check engine light is on there will be a code or codes displayed under the passenger seat on the OBD display unit. It you're not familiar with this display after all your years of owning these trucks this will go a long way in helping you to diagnose your engine problems. Frankly, from the way you describe the idle issue it sounds like you more likely need an IACV or stepper motor (same part, different names) than a new EFI ECU.

To view the OBD display you need to remove the passenger outer seat frame cover. If the display is still where it should be, once the side cover is removed you will see a black box smaller than a cigarette pack staring out at you. Turn your key to the accessory II position and you will see a red LED number. You may have more than one code. Use the link below to help you identify the LED number(s).

Land Rover Troubleshooting: retrieving fault codes

The EFI ECU is located under the passenger seat. To access it you need to remove the front seat frame cover. IIRC the EAS ECU sits on top of the EFI ECU so you'll have to remove it first to gain access. On your truck the EFI ECU is secured to the floor with two large Phillips head screws. They most likely will be rusted in place to use PB blaster or an equivalent and also use the largest, longest Phillips head screwdriver (#3 ) to help with leverage. If you wind up stripping the screw you can also try using a set of vice grips. Clamp them firmly to the head of the screw and turn.

HOWEVER!!!!

Don't get ahead of yourself. Start with the simple stuff first. Check the OBD and learn what the codes mean. If you have questions post up here. I seriously doubt the problem is with the EFI ECU unless there's more to this story than you've posted so far
Cheers,
Paul
 

· 1993 range rover lwb - Roman Bronze
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks a lot Paul I appreciate the advise.... I do remember about the codes but totally forgot to check it because I haven't been with my truck for about 3+ years..so I'm learning my truck all over again...I'll check it and update you


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Another person here just pushing a business.
As you will know, LanD rover only maintain spares for 10 years, so genuine parts for any vehicle older than this are no longer made.

So people claiming to have genuine parts for Series Land Rovers would have to be viewed with some scepticism.

Non-genuine aftermarket parts are often better, but not always.
 

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Another person here just pushing a business.
As you will know, LanD rover only maintain spares for 10 years, so genuine parts for any vehicle older than this are no longer made.

So people claiming to have genuine parts for Series Land Rovers would have to be viewed with some scepticism.

Non-genuine aftermarket parts are often better, but not always.
Golf clap!

Well said Ian, well said.
 

· 1993 range rover lwb - Roman Bronze
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533 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@Paul Grant and PT Schram: do any of you guys have the ABS brake booster... I know you had it before Paul but I need it because mine is failing. How do I know? I took it to the mechanic and he put it on a lift with me in it, he then told me to put it in drive then hit the brakes... When I hit the brakes the front brakes stopped but the back would still roll... Did it again and both front a rear stopped.... Third time only front brakes stopped. Keep in mind , before this test the brakes were bled and new rotors and pads were replaced


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@Paul Grant and PT Schram: do any of you guys have the ABS brake booster... I know you had it before Paul but I need it because mine is failing. How do I know? I took it to the mechanic and he put it on a lift with me in it, he then told me to put it in drive then hit the brakes... When I hit the brakes the front brakes stopped but the back would still roll... Did it again and both front a rear stopped.... Third time only front brakes stopped. Keep in mind , before this test the brakes were bled and new rotors and pads were replaced
Does your brake pedal feel firm when braking or does it feel soft and goes nearly to the floor.
Just because they were bled does not mean that they were bled properly.
Also ABS does not have a brake booster. It has a pressure pump.
 

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This is the ABS Booster Unit (STC886/ ANR1118) he is talking about>>

STC886 | Abs Booster Unit
My mistake, I would not have referred to that piece as a booster unit, but that is what it is referred to in the RAVE CD.
It is not the most common thing to go, so I would be looking at other reasons first. I would start by bleeding it as per the RAVE CD.
 

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If the people who did your brakes did not follow the procedure EXACTLY as is stated in the manual you will never get correct pressure at all four corners. Print out the procedure in the RAVE and bring it along with you to the shop that did the work and request they rebleed the system.
 

· 1993 range rover lwb - Roman Bronze
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
@paul grant
Thanks a lot... Will do.... I'm now going to hijack my own thread..... I need to change my hood release cable.... I didn't see anything on how to do it... Do I have to take out the front grill to access certain parts


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If the people who did your brakes did not follow the procedure EXACTLY as is stated in the manual you will never get correct pressure at all four corners. Print out the procedure in the RAVE and bring it along with you to the shop that did the work and request they rebleed the system.
So you actually agreed with me for once. That is a bit different.
 

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It's not that hard to agree with you when we're on the same track.

Ian, we've had our disagreements going back a number of years and that's a fact. When it comes to repairing these older Range Rovers and Discovery models, I think there is little we disagree on and I would, most often defer to your experience in that regard.

However, because of what I do for a living, it is crucial that I know what parts are on the trucks I deal with. As a result, when I say something like, mid model year '89 starting with a specific VIN, exposed hinges were done away with, that comes from both owning trucks from that model year AND needing to know that type of information for my customers.

The same thing can be said of the spider issue. We narrowed it down to vehicles that would have a 14CUX fuel system and the 10as Lucas alarm box. Now, I can comfortably state that such a system wouldn't appear in an NAS truck. Would five, ten or a hundred DI's destined for the US have a very different wiring system installed to accommodate the 10as, I think not.

It's one thing to talk about oddities like one '93 with a newer VIN having ten splines while an apparently older '93 has 24 splines but that's a matter of pulling something off the shelves. A different wiring harness is something a little more involved for a weird anomaly like a 14CUX/10as DI making it to our shores, especially when you consider how strict our governments regulations are (you even cited them complaining about bolt together frames). OBDII was mandated for '96 and that's precisely why Rover went about installing the unique GEMS system in our trucks. It wasn't the case for the ROW hence the grab bag of various setups in other countries.

I would much prefer that we play nice in this sandbox and respect each other and the particular set of Rover knowledge we bring to the forum rather than have every thread we both are involved in disintegrate into a fight to prove who is right and who is wrong.
Cheers,
Paul
 
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