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We are losing our minds with a 1995 Range Rover Classic 3.9. There are a few faults that could well be connected.

Firstly the speedo. The speedometer originally worked more often than not, then it worked erratically, then it would claim I was doing 130mph and finally it stopped working. We changed the VSS under the car, no change. We took the dash out and found some dry joints and fixed those, still no change. We tested the dial and put a square wave through it and it worked perfectly. We created a new loom on the back of electrical membrane, still it didn't work. We replaced the wires to the VSS and still it does not work. It would work in the garage at walking pace but as soon as we tested the car it would stop working again. Occasionally we would get a blip when the speedo needle would go up to 40mph but now nothing.

The diagnostics would not show any errors though for the first time today error code 68 came up relating to the speed sensor. Any help would be great!!

The rear electric windows did not work then out of the blue on a test run they started to work. Got back, restarted the car to show the now working rear windows and nothing! Dead, didn't move. Today exactly the same thing happened (both rear windows either work or don't, no middle ground).

The car engine has progressively become lumpier over time, especially at tick over and occasionally the car would cut out when coming to a rest. I would get an error code for the right hand oxygen sensor. Finally one day the car just died as i was driving. We replaced the amplifier and it worked again though all the problems have remained. Parts replaced include the rotor arm, distributor cap, leads, spark plugs, advanced vacuum (it was totally screwed), air mass sensor, air filter, the inlet manifold was cleaned, throttle sensor tested....There is often an excessive level of water from the exhaust though only when cold so not too worried, the water level is fine.

I am getting to the point of buying some matches!!
 

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Thank you sierrafery, the earth did need cleaning. I have not ran the car yet as i have the centre console out.

We did try the rear windows and they are still faulty. It should not effect the speedometer as we put a direct earth to the dash to try and eliminate that as being a potential cause. Our next port of call is to get the car back in the air and try to follow the loom from the VSS up and over the transmission to the bulkhead to see if it has melted or worn somewhere. We have ran two new cables from the VSS (which is new) but that made zero difference other than the fact that car has finally picked up an error 68 code for a road speed sensor problem. Up to that point the speedometer either didn't work or was erratic and not once did an error code occur.

The engine is fine when first started but once it has been moved the idle becomes rough. I can't think what else it can be, we been through the vacuum side as best as we can, checked the compression for each cylinder, changed the the entire ignition system. The list goes on. It is ironic that we have a few V12 Jaguars here and they are a piece of cake compared to the Range Rover! The 1995 soft dash seems to be a bit of bastard child as it has random parts from different Land Rovers!
 

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Good luck, watching the diagrams it's scary how complicated they did everything back in '95, if E200 needed cleaning check E100 too cos that's for the main engine ECU
 

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You possibly need to step back and think about it. You indicate you pumped a square wave in at the instrument and it worked okay, so why not pump the square wave in at the VSS and see it it works, that will check cable and connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
We finally fixed the speedo fault. We replaced the new speed VSS fitted a few months ago (Britpart part) with a genuine Land Rover VSS. The Britpart VSS tested ok but eliminating everything else the sensor was the only logical place to go. So much for saving money on parts, from now on I am sticking to genuine where I can!

The car now has a hesitation when driving and lacks power when going up hills, it has gradually got worse over the last few days. I replaced the fuel pump and filter 2 or 3,000 miles ago with a Britpart pump and now I am ordering a genuine one which 7 times the price. Sometimes you learn an expensive lesson.

I still have issues with the rear windows occasionally working.
 

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I have a Land Rover Discovery 2.

It experienced speedometer fluctuations driving off the shops lot after the shop cleaned the intake manifold.

It was going to 0 MPH and back again. Up down up down.

Eventually it somehow fixed itself. Not sure how.
 

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There is a particular solder joint on the circuit board of the window lift ecu that breaks. When it does, you lose control of the rear windows. I suggest that the solder joint is cracking and you will eventually lose the ability to either raise or lower the windows. If you are handy with a soldering gun, go to YouTube and search for videos on how to repair the circuit board.
 
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