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Discussion Starter #1
I was Driving my 2003 Disco in town needed a ride was going through withdrawl from being on vacation. The oil light flickered at a red light that was 2 blocks after start up. I went straight home shut her off and let her set for an hour checked the oil she had the proper amount of oil per the dipstick. My thought was/is to get a new oil sending unit new filter and oil as she will soon be ready for an oil change in another 1500 miles anyways and see if this fixes the problem or should I be looking in another direction such as changing out the oil pump straight away. My Buddy who has been a very good auto mechanic has always told me to start with the cheapest item to repair first if I wasn't certain. The theory behind that being you don't want to buy a 500 dollar part only to find out it was a 15 dollar part problem.
 

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That light only comes on when your oil pressure drops below 7 PSI which is a serious danger zone. Sure you can start with the cheap stuff and hope for the best but while you are at it you should drop the oil pan (order the gasket today) and make sure the pickup screen is isn't clogged and that the connection where the pickup line connects to the bottom of the oil pump is nice and snug. These oil pumps are just gears and even when a gear breaks it generally does not lower the oil pressure to that level. How many miles?
 

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Stop driving it till you have someone do an oil pressure test, then get back to us with the 4 numbers, cold at idle and 2000 RPM's and hot at idle and 2000 RPM's.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice. I wasn't planning to drive it anymore until the issue is resolved. I noticed in the very short drive it only did it at idle. I think your right in this case I should just go for the oil pump, drop the pan and ensure nothing is clogged and and everything is good to go.
 

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Disco Mike is there a hard copy of that manual I can purchase? I kinda like hard copy rather than copy on the computer. For example I had downloaded it on my other computer and one of my children decided to see what happens when a cup of liquid gets poured in a computer...not fun to say the least and a lot of info was lost in a quick second. I'll download it to the new computer but that's one reason I like hard copy for those unexpected surprises.
 

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I am mechanically inclined so if a rebuild of the oil pump is just as good as a new one I'll go that route provided no specialty tools are needed.
 

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A lot cheaper to put the information on a flash drive and go to your local copy shop letting them copy it.
 

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True wasn't thinking of that. Ok so is Atlantic British gasket and gear kit the whole rebuild kit? Doesn't seem like that should be everything to rebuild that type of oil pump. I know my neon...I know apples to oranges...you had to replace the whole front part because the oil pump was built into it.
 

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Ok don't have the oil pressure numbers yet but got the parts as suggested along with oil pressure gauge. I have to go to NY for a week with the family and will start working on everything when I get back.
 

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Hey!
I just tackled my oil pump two weeks ago! Its really not a big job, not too time consuming. BP utah has the kit for your oil pump, and has the timing gears and chain all, Theres two types of gear sets and aftermarket/OEM, I thought it would be wise and go with OEM timing gears/chain, also while your down there maybe check out a water pump they have a pretty nice aftermarket one! All said and done, i spent around 400$ for Oil, Oil Filter, Oil Pump gears, Coolant, Redline Water wetter, Timing Chain, timing gears, with formagasket, and copper gasket stuff. I figured i had 120k on my D2 i might as well do it while its all off, it was well worth it now my i have no worries about my truck and just got back from a colorado/utah trip with no hiccups!

Goodluck with your truck, Hope all goes well!
Dane.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Cold Idle 20 PSI
Cold 2000 RPM 40 PSI
running temp idle 7-8 PSI
running temp 2000 RPM 30 PSI
these are the numbers I got. going to replacing the chain and gears, oil pump rebuild, water pump, serp belt. I also found a small piece ring and 1/8' tall 1/8' wide almost looked like a valve stem would fit into it brass/ copperish metal
 

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If your gauge if accurate and the oil light does come on some times, you have a problem.
My money is on a failing oil pump, and while you are in there, replace the timing chain.
When you drop the pan, inspect the pick up tube and pull a couple of crank main caps to see if you have some bearing wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Dropped the pan pickup tube was clean didn't check bearings...but that's not hard to do. I figured to replace everything around the oil pump...timing gears and chain water pump and serp belt I'll have to check prices on crank Bearings.
 

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If you are going to do the water pump also, consider using one of the next German pumps sold by British Parts of Utah and A.B., comes with a 2 year warranty and a solid brass impellor with a very strong bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
On got that one thanks Disco Mike! Parts should be arriving 7-10 days they said. then off to the races :drive:. Thank you for everyone's help. You guys rock!:buttrock:
 

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Ok update on the oil pressure...changed the timing gear and chain, put new gears for oil pump in the timing chain cover new water pump everything is back together drove it from my dads(garage space)house to mine a mile away. It was at 15 psi at first start up got to a stop light pressure dropped down to 3-5 psi. cleaned everything really well didn't see any dirt or gunk on the bottom end when the oil pan was off. Not sure what the heck is going on maybe the lifter rods are clogged or the oil return passages in the head?
 
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