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Sorry for you luck
The circumstances of how it failed, how soon you realized it and how many miles are on it are big factors that will indicate the severity of the damage. If it overheated, ran without oil of knocked and rattled, you are probably screwed. Sorry to say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Awesome. I had to drive about a half mile before I was able to pull off. It temp didn't even raise 1 degree. It spewed oil but still had a good bit when I drained it. I'm hoping it is salvageable. I'm ordering pets now.
 

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You must have the oil pan off. I would suggest taking off a main bearing cap and inspecting a bearing.
Correct. We can't tell you anything without pictures of at least the bottom end, I.e. bearing caps removed to view mains and rod journals. Also, that length of time running without oil probably fried the valve train so the valve covers have to be pulled as well. You should prepare for the worst. Only time you get away with oil pump busting is when the engine is immediately shut down. But good luck and more pics for solid answers. Temp gauge doesn't move until 240f when coolant is really overheating so that's the good news. But a pan full of oil doesn't help the cyl heads when the pump is non-existent.

Were there any warning signs before this incident? Low oil-pressure lamp or warning light, especially at startup and idle? Noises? The gears were probably cracked for a while before they let go completely and oil pressure would have been below spec. People usually catch this sort of thing from what I have read so wondering if you noticed anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No warning signs at all. No oil lights or other issues. I use a temp gauge that plugs into the obd2 and it never went above 202. I heard a snap/break while accelerating fast to pull into traffic. I'll pull I planned on replacing crankshaft and rod bearings while I was in there anyway. I'll take some pics tomorrow. Thanks!
 

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So here is the front main. I'm assuming I'll need new main bearings and rod bearings. What else do I need? Thanks.
Any obvious scoring or pits to the crank journals? That's the most important as the crank may have to be machined then obviously bearing sizes change. You should focus your attention here before ordering anything.
You did mark your caps right? They have to go back exactly the same location.
 

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this happened to my sons and he drove about 4 miles. Sounded like a tractor when he got home
replaced front cover and within 1 minute of running it sounds normal again. This happened over a year ago daily driver working fine.
 
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