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Putting things back together after replacing the AC Evap. I have one wire with no obvious place to go- the one with the nut on the end. It is bundled in with the pigtails for the clock and the door lock switch. It's black and the nut isn't insulated, so I'm assuming it's a ground.

The wire's curves match those of the others coming from that bundle, but there's no place for it to go in the center instrument panel (that I can see). There's also no place I can locate within the length of the wire for it to connect to.

My helper was on that side and says he recalls having to disconnect it after the dash was unbolted, but I'm not trusting his recollection 100% as he doesn't remember where it was attached.



TIA!
 

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look I don't know if this will help or not but I just Changed the Evap. valve on a 2000 disco 2 which, You May have Known! But I Didn't Have a F*^$#ng CLUE!

SO IN MY IGNORANCE I SAID TO A FAMILY MEMBER I'LL TAKE CARE OF IT! changing a Evap. Valve

BECAUSE I HAD JUST TAKEN ONE OUT OF A Honda Civic and it was Right behind the Glove Box.

took 15 Min. to get out & About 5 Min. to put back in And When I Asked Him To Open the

Hood/Bonnet I Saw the The Heater Core Hoses the Two {_____] 8 And A panel Right next to them

That I thought that's Where Land Rover Would've Put it. I was so F#&KING WRONG!

I Had to take Out the whole Dam dash Even the Steering Wheel left side I'm in NEW JERSEY U.S.

But afterward It Won't Start Oh! it will Crank/ Turn over But no fire in the Cyl.so what's was the

Problem Well the Fuel cut off switch And F*^King Sensor Wasn't 90% thats Up & Down it was

Instead Upside Down so When I used the handy dandy OB11 PORT I GOT CODES P 0560, P1536

I HOPE this Helps Someone.

ON this page it ONLY TOOK Two lines TO FIX it, In the real world six F*^king Days. Havacare.
 
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