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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good afternoon,
I purchased a 2003 Land Rover Discovery series 2 v8 about two months ago. For a month I have been driving it around with no problems then the check engine light came on. After about a minute the check engine light flashes.

Where should I start?

This is a list of what I've had done:
*Replaced both ignition coil packs
*replaced ignition wires w/ new auto zone 7mm Silicon recommended for Land Rovers.
*Replaced valve cover gaskets(both side)
*replaced spark plugs
*carbon cleaned throttle body
*carbon cleaned air mass flow sensor
*replaced all 4 O2 sensors
* only use premium fuel
* new battery/ 12v
*New coolant hoses to radiator.

This is what I know:
Cylinder 7 spark plug is oil socked, 0% compression
Cylinder 2 looks like ignition fuel problem.

Please help me figure it out.
 

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My 2001 D2 started doing that. Seemed like a misfire. I drove it home and it only got worse. The check engine light started flashing. Took it to a garage, and they told me that there was metal in the oil and one of the cam lobes had sheared off. Hope that isn't what is going on with yours, but you may want to check the appearance of the oil.
 

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Erase the fault codes then read again after a drive or if it doesnt start after some cranking ... it's possible to find less or maybe only one which then is relevant
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Erased fault codes with OBD2 and went for a 15minute drive. Came back home scanned codes again and all fault codes came back the same. I noticed no O2 sensors are reading so might have to drive it longer. Land Rover drives nice but I do hear a misfire so I pulled cylinder#7 spark plug and it had fresh oil on it. Might pull the rest of spark plugs to see what I find. Need to steel check oil for metal!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok checked oil looks like no metal in it but pretty dark. when I checked the coolest it had little copper dots in the fluid. Could this cause the codes I'm getting. Posted images of #7 spark plug, oil dipstick, coolant Please help :/
 

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Good to hear that there is no metal in the oil. I did a quick google search for copper flakes in coolant. People on nearly every forum that showed up were suggesting that a product such as K-seal may have been added to the coolant. Do you know if anything has been added to the coolant to stop leaks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I talked to my brother because he's been working on the land rover with me. He said he put intake and radiator stop leak but didn't inform me so that explains the copper flakes. Yes zero compression in cylinder #7. I was thinking about putting Lucas stop engine oil leak... Because there is oil all over the engine and fresh drops near the oil pan. Do you think this might help ?
 

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If you have zero compression in a cylinder, that needs to be sorted pronto!

Do you have access to compressed air? Introducing shop air to a cylinder can often indicate if you have a broken piston, busted valve, etc.

Zero compression is cause for immediate concern

In some cases, oil leaks merely mean there is oil in the engine...

I'm very concerned about this truck as it doesn't look good from his perspective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you have zero compression in a cylinder, that needs to be sorted pronto!

Do you have access to compressed air? Introducing shop air to a cylinder can often indicate if you have a broken piston, busted valve, etc.

Zero compression is cause for immediate concern

In some cases, oil leaks merely mean there is oil in the engine...

I'm very concerned about this truck as it doesn't look good from his perspective.
I'm very concerned myself! I will see if I can introduce compressed air in cylinder #7 and see what is going on. Thank you. I'll keep you posted!
 

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Before you just blow compressed air into a hole and see what happens..... Educate yourself.
Not knowing what to do, when to do it and what to look for will be of little to no value.
The cycle position (position of piston in relationship to valves in the 4 stroke cycle) will effect what happens when you introduce pressures
Do some reading on " how to perform a cylinder leakage test"
Chances are low on a hole in the piston and even reliatively low on a burnt or bent valve.
Odds are higher on a valvetrain issue.
Do your homework and know what you need to do, how to do it and what to expect.
Good luck
Let us know what you find
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Before you just blow compressed air into a hole and see what happens..... Educate yourself.
Not knowing what to do, when to do it and what to look for will be of little to no value.
The cycle position (position of piston in relationship to valves in the 4 stroke cycle) will effect what happens when you introduce pressures
Do some reading on " how to perform a cylinder leakage test"
Chances are low on a hole in the piston and even reliatively low on a burnt or bent valve.
Odds are higher on a valvetrain issue.
Do your homework and know what you need to do, how to do it and what to expect.
Good luck
Let us know what you find
K did some homework restrict12. Remove all spark plugs. Fit tool. Turn over engine. Read guage. Normal pressure should be noted.

To diagnose rings... remove tool. Squirt engine oil into cylinder through sparkplug hole. Refit tool. Turn over engine. If pressure goes up, then rings are failing. Same- low pressure, bad valves.

What do you think?
I removed all spark plugs.
Some Spark plugs look oil socked
Compressions are-
#1-140 #2-145 #3-140 #4-140 #5-147 #6-125 and #7-0

https://youtu.be/DgxbPHX-W_M

Great video about leakdown test

Keep you posted.
 

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Assuming #8 is within your normal range roughly 140psi you have again confirmed no compression in #7 . This would be commonly be referred to as a "compression test.
The next thing to figure out is why.
This is where a cylinder leakage test will indicate why the chamber is not sealing and allowing a pressure build.

Applying pressure from an external source (compressed air) into the cylinder while in a stroke position with both valves closed will indicate what is not correctly sealing, normally done at top dead centre of the compression stroke
Air leaking into intake - intake valve
Air leaking into exhaust - exhaust valve
Air into sump ( feel it at the oil fill cap) - piston not sealing
Air into cooling system or externally leaking gasket, head etc.

If everything seems to be sealing for the most part you could also be dealing with a valve not opening(broken rocker, lifter or pushrod)
At that point you would likely be advised to pull the valve cover off and visuall inspect for damage , play, proper rocker action while the engine is rolling over (does not need to be running of course)
 
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