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As long as the engine is the same and it will run well with the LR3's ECM you are sorted without probs
 

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Hi @sierrafery, am heading out to the shop tomorrow to do some final testing on the Ranger engine prior to moving the whole Land Rover from my house to the shop. Just verifying the location of sensors, compression, rechecking oil pressure with a proper gauge, those little things that can stop a plan from becoming a project.

I'm also wondering if anyone reading along knows offhand if the CKP (crankshaft position sensor) on the Land Rover 4.0L Cologne is a reluctor (2 wire) type or a Hall effect (3 wire) type? The wiring diagram I have shows a 3 wire but when I attempt to look up the part, it looks like a 2 wire type. I'll find out when we tear out the LR3 engine, but it would be nice to be prepared. Only reason I'm wondering is that it would be nice to be able to use the Ranger CKP because it is on the harmonic balancer (front of engine), whereas the LR3 has it on the transmission bell housing (rear of engine). An interface using an inexpensive microprocessor could be used to change the CKP angle to whatever the LR3 ECM wants to see, just wondering, not planning...
 

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I gave you a link with the official wiring diagrams for LR3 in post #19 and it's certain for me based on it that it's 2 wire crank sensor
 

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It is amazing how a person can confuse a DV6 and a PV6 labelled drawing, thanks for the heads up, you are correct. I see that both the gasoline (Petrol) engines have 2 wire sensors and the diesels are 3 wire, that is good to know, getting ready to head out to the shop (85 miles away) for some final Ranger Cologne engine checks. First have to figure out what happened to my Nest Hello doorbell/camera last night, looks like something shorted out, the 27 VAC at the transformer has dropped to 10.5 VAC at the camera/doorbell, causing the thing to lose wifi and video/audio functions.
 

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Fixed Nest (shorted chime coil), engine oil pressure is 55 lbs/sq in. and compression is appx 190 psi in all cylinders, getting ready for the big move, just trying to figure out how to put an oil temperature sensor into the Ranger engine without using the Land Rover oil pan, thinking of some kind of manifold off the oil pressure gauge fitting (engine block 1/4" NPT), same place we are going to use to fill/drain the Moroso pre-oiler...
 

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Thanks for the link, we'll be thinking hard on our methodology because want the final product to be as close to OEM as possible, likely that means using the stock LR3 ladder frame part of the oil pan, just have to buy another gasket. We are moving the machine out to the shop this weekend, have played with the replacement engine as much as we can, so am satisfied that it is as good as we are ever going to get for a used engine out of a wreck. Will keep everyone posted!
 

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July 17 and new engine mount for Ranger Cologne 4.0L SOHC driver's side fabricated, picture shows homemade plumb bob line coming down to centre hole on new mount which is fabricated from a combination of the Ford Ranger driver's side mount and some 3/16" I beam steel my friend had in his steel supply.

As an aside, does anyone know what thread size the oil temperature sensor that is in the lattice support (upper oil pan) is? We are going to try to drill and tap rather than remove and replace, unless there is no easy other way...
 

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July 18

Photos are the new drivers side engine mount (painted black) and the installed oil temperature sensor, the blue stuff is Permatex silicone. Taking grandchildren to the mountains until next Thursday so will not be posting for nearly a week...
 

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Thursday checked out the flex plate spacer and the LR3 one appears to have some fine cracks? or lines in it, will micrometer the Ford one this Monday and if they are the same will use it, the oil filter aluminum mount from the LR3 will have to be used on the Ford and the passenger side engine mount will have to be modified slightly for the Ford block casting. The oil dipstick and lower oil pan from the LR3 will have to be used on the Ford, and if you couldn't or wouldn't be able to drill and tap a hole in the aluminum engine girdle (upper oil pan) for the 4L3A-12A648-AB engine oil temperature sensor then you would have to change that as well. Ordered a Ford WPT-1231 (3U2Z-14S411-DVAB) pigtail repair assembly from the Ford dealer to replace the destroyed one for the engine oil temperature sensor and that's about it for now. will post some more pictures next week, just figuring out exactly how to reattach the flex plate so the commutator ring (for the CKP crankshaft position sensor) is in the correct position, not planning on removing this engine again soon...

The engine oil temperature sensor seems to be M19x1.5 but the only tap and die set we had that big was a 3/4" NPT fine so that's what we used, along with the blue Permatex sealant... :)
 

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Great read and thread topic. I'm trying to research using the Ford 5.0 coyote motor if I need to replace the 5.0 jag in my 2012 supercharged. The retrofit, cheap bastards like me need more info like this floating around.
 

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Great read and thread topic. I'm trying to research using the Ford 5.0 coyote motor if I need to replace the 5.0 jag in my 2012 supercharged. The retrofit, cheap bastards like me need more info like this floating around.
Kind of a crazy thing to do, I helped with several Volvo V8 conversions about 20 years ago using the fuel injected Ford 5.0L and Ford T5 tranny, lots of fun, and good luck to you! In this case (LR3 to Ranger V6) the block on the LR3 is tapped a bit differently, it would drop right into a Ford, but the Ford needs engine mount modifications/adapters to drop into the LR3. Any way, getting set to torque everything down and going to attempt to install on Wednesday, WPT-1231 Ford oil temp sensor pigtail kit fit and is perfect, figured out how to check number 1 cylinder TDC compression stroke for the flex plate install which is required for proper CKP crankshaft position sensor operation, there is only one keyway in this engine and that is on the front of the crankshaft, everything else is torqued into position, so instant destruction if anything is mis-timed. Testing fuel injectors and doing some soldering and shrink wrapping tomorrow, hopefully engine install is Wednesday. The photos are of the rough engine mount with left bank? knock sensor, and the LR3 oil filter mount and engine mount on the Ranger engine. Some modification of the engine mount is required...
 

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Well today we buttoned up the Ranger engine with LR3 outside parts and opened up the LR3 engine. We got a surprise! WE were bemoaning the fact that it looked like we could have repaired it from the front with the engine in, but we see now that although the front cassette had broken, it was the rear cassette that had really done its bit, the exhaust valves were all bent on the passenger side head and had obviously hit the pistons pretty hard.
 

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That big of a job would've been rough with it still in. Definitely not a wasted effort. I lucky my pistons weren't damaged on the d2 when I worked on it
 

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That big of a job would've been rough with it still in. Definitely not a wasted effort. I lucky my pistons weren't damaged on the d2 when I worked on it
Actually would have been impossible, we would have fixed the front cassette only to find that the rear needed fixing, which you cannot do without pulling the engine, so a lot of time wasted when the engine should just have been pulled in the first place. You were definitely lucky, this engine was a bear to pull, lots of unexpected hard to get to bolts and one forgotten electrical connector. Heading out to my friend's shop for the trial install right now...
 

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Mr. Ranger met Mr. LR3 today and the meeting was pretty amicable considering the custom motor mount on the drivers side and the 3/16" shorter thickness of the driver side engine/transmission alignment pin casting, causing us to grind about 1/8" off the attaching bolt. Good thing we had short tempers and had to take a coffee break earlier because the other side alignment pin had stuck in the transmission and was needing a friendly whack to get it on track again. Will post photos tomorrow...
 

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Sorry all, only took 1 photo and posted on another site but not here. Got the torque converter, transmission mount bolts, starter motor and engine mounts all sorted out, now just getting the Moroso accumulator (pre-oiler) pieces arranged, photo of Mr. Ranger sitting in Mr. LR3's engine bay, we'll resume next Monday or Tuesday...
 

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Sorry all, only took 1 photo and posted on another site but not here. Got the torque converter, transmission mount bolts, starter motor and engine mounts all sorted out, now just getting the Moroso accumulator (pre-oiler) pieces arranged, photo of Mr. Ranger sitting in Mr. LR3's engine bay, we'll resume next Monday or Tuesday...

Good Luck! Looking forward to seeing this work out!
Dave
 
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