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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that my 06 LR3 are notorious gas guzzlers. Is their a way to save some gas mileage? Any equipment I can purchase to make it run better?

Does it save more gas to use the manual shifter vs just regular automatic?
 

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I'll soon have an electronic lift kit, that will lower (or raise) the vehicle while underway. This will save fuel.

Aside from that, proper tire inflation, and proper maintenance are the most critical. Consider a BG Injector service, and Intake service. Although when I did mine, my mileage went down. These vehicles are now known to have gunk at the valve seats, which will have a negative impact on mileage.

Differential Oil Changes every 30k miles
Transfer Case oil change every 60k miles
Transmission Fluid every 60k miles

I hope this helps.
 

· Super Trooper
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The best thing you can do to improve your fuel mileage is to drive conservatively and anticipate stops. Easy on the gas and coast as much as you can when coming to stops will have a significant impact on your mileage.

Most products you purchase to improve fuel mileage aren't worth it. Depending on the money you spend for them, it could take years of driving before you actually start to save money because you have to recoup the cost of the product in fuel savings before you start to save.

Colin
 

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I saw a post on the Australian land rover owners forum that a TCM software update improved fuel economy. But most of them have TDV6 instead of the AJV8.


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There are several TCM updates, to correct various issues, but none that, to my knowledge at least, had any specific impact on mileage. Although, the most notable change in software from stock was to change TCC lockup strategy, which very well might increase fuel economy.

tlt, was your drop in mileage after the BGs based on long term or short term? I have seen several times that in the first couple hundred miles following these services, mileage will drop as the fueling readjusts, but usually ends up being better overall. That is of course assuming that restoring the responsiveness and balance to the engine doesn't also make the right foot a little heavier. Also, did you change your plugs following the injection service?
 

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I just bought the OTC knock-off version of the BG injector cleaner on amazon. I'll probably use the BG 208 cleaner in it though, because I know how well it works.

I'll post my results. I also *think* my hawkeye can reset adaptions, so I may try that right after I use it.

I'm assuming my LR3 has never had the injectors cleaned and few of the software updates too, because when I got it the maintenance reminder had gone like 90,000 miles and over 1000 days past due. :)

As soon as blackbox releases the update to the nanocom I'll update all of the modules, but I'm not expecting much improvement. I'm guessing it's diesel specific updates the aulro guys were talking about.

Currently I get about 14 mpg driving around town, and if I drive exclusively highway I get as much as 19 depending on the terrain.


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Engine adaptions are reset with nothing more then a battery hard reset.

I strongly recommend changing the spark plugs after the injection service, it's a harsh chemical, and can damage the plating on the plugs.

And yeah, any pressurized chamber can do the injection service, I use a snap-on one, and the BG one for the induction services, set it to ~60psi, and you'll be good. The big thing to keep in mind with it, is that all BG chemicals(with the exception of MAFS cleaner) work best when things are hot. I don't recommend disconnecting a fuel line with a hot rail, but you can run a couple tanks of just gas through the injection machine to get things hot before using the BG stuff.

The 208 is 44k, is a great additive, but not more then that, and the engine won't run solely off it. You want to use BG 210 through the rail.
 

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Oh right. It's been a while since I worked at a place that sold the stuff. We always sold the 210 and 208 together. One for the rail, and then also one for the tank for the customers drive home.

I had a land cruiser with an inline six that came in with a dead misfire and it sucked a can through in about 20 seconds. But the miss went away. I think there was an injector stuck open. After that I was sold on the stuff.
 

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I have done about 7000 miles (in two months) since I did the service. I also had changed the spark plugs at that time, on principle. I suspect, more than anything else, the ethanol mix is having more of a negative effect than anything else. I had the chance to fill up on OK with non-E gas, and you could immediately see the performance pickup and improved mileage, despite a headwind.

The injector cleaning would be worthwhile nonetheless, you don't want your valves not seating correctly due to gum, and it's an issue that is turning up on high mileage vehicles. This came from several dealer / master mechanics I talked to.
 

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Good info Todd.

Traveling back and forth from SA to Austin, I can run 21-22 mpg up I-35 to Austin at 70-75mph...but the return trip, always kills my mileage...when running on cruise. After breeching a hill, my rig seems to hold too long before finally shifting to lock-up and the rpm's dropping back down. I find that if I drive by foot, I can get so much better mileage if my trip involves small to steep hills that cause the rig to shift out of lock-up.
 

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Hey Dave,

How do you normally hook up to the fuel rail? First I tried pulling the line loose at the spring lock connector, but when I put the ford adapter from my fuel pressure kit in, it wouldn't snap in, so I'm guessing it's not ford sized.

Then I thought about pulling the rubber hose off right before the spring lock, but the clamp seemed difficult to get at.

My current thought is the rubber line up front that connects the two rails. I figure I could cut it and run a T there and put a barbed coupler in when I'm done. I'm a little afraid of creating a leak though.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!


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5/8" quick disconnect tool to get it off, there's a clip that is tethered onto the line that pops off first. I have several sets of disconnect tools, some pretty high dollar, but the one I use for these engines are the cheap white plastic fuel/ac ones that you can get at any parts store, usually come on a rail with 5-6 different sizes.

To hook up, that adapter will do the trick, you'll want to cap the feed size to keep from having raw fuel spill on the exhaust that will get hot, and pull the fuel pump relay. I personally have a SnapOn set up that has a T coupler with a shut off valve, so that I can turn a valve and switch from fuel pump feed to canister feed. This is a great setup, and perfect for my use, however way too much of an investment for any DIYer(all together I have over a grand in that setup) A simple inline T is not going to work as well as it sounds, as when you feed from the canister, you will dump most of the chemical back into the line/tank and not into the rail, which is why it is not recommended to hook up to a pressure test port on the rail(on engines that have them)

Once you get everything hooked up, and start feeding the BG through, you want to use nice slow throttle sweeps, from about 1200-3500 rpm, going too quick will cause it to ping, as the BG stuff is not as stable as real gas.
 

· wags
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Dave had me get the BG #46 a ford part that works on the 4.4 rail. Big change in performance, plugs next. Used BG's engine cleaner just before my oil change and it came out black. Added MOA to the new oil synthetic castrol it will be -20 tonight.
 

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Dave had me get the BG #46 a ford part that works on the 4.4 rail. Big change in performance, plugs next. Used BG's engine cleaner just before my oil change and it came out black. Added MOA to the new oil synthetic castrol it will be -20 tonight.
I've got a ford spring lock fitting in my pressure test kit, but it wouldn't snap onto the 4.4 rail. Either it's crappy quality control, or there are more than one ford size. I ordered the doorman fitting from amazon. Hopefully it fits.

I stopped by a garage where a friend of mine works and he no longer sells the BG fuel cleaner by itself. It comes packaged with the BG44K too. I've not tried their other products, but I might try that engine cleaner you mentioned.


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with Nitto Terra Grapplers tires on highway driving on cruise control at 65miles, I get 22-23 mpg. I fill my front tires to about 35 and rear 42. I get best results on mpg, sometimes 70miles. Once I go 75 my mpg drops fast. City varies.
Dave
 

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Yes, sorry I've been swamped lately... I did increase my MPG by replacing my bad front diff with one of my reman units.. up 1.5mpg around city.. now 15mpg.. Was down to 13.5..

Here is a whistle wetter.. pm or e-mail me w/contact details if interested, still working out the details, and I've got one to install on my car and run through the paces. It has an option to lower slightly on road trips, which will also increase mpg. That's the step -2cm, seems to help in unscientific tests thus far with two identical rovers, except the module.

The Land Rover control suspension module by Mudtech4x4US is an additional module that allows you to have more control over suspension, varying in negative or positive values of the car in addition to the expected values from Land Rover.

The controller is in fact equipped with a command that allows you to adjust the suspension in 4 different positions:

Step -2cm
0 (no change)
Step +2,5 cm
Step +5 cm
Step +7,5 cm

Each value can be added to the adjustment range already available thus obtaining heights which are unreachable with the factory system only and especially not bound by the current speed limits set by the manufacturer . The maximum height reached by adding the corrections to the original system is 12.5 cm or 5 “.

The results that are obtained are:

1) The car structure is raised to 40 cm above the ground

2) Front and rear differentials raised to 36 cm above the ground

3) Best angles of attack, bump and exit

You can also reach a height equal to, or greater than the “extended” whenever you consider it appropriate. The “Lock Suspension” feature will allow you to not have to always go to the LR dealer before retiring to correct the wheel balancing.

The function “Recovery” will allow you to eliminate the limit of 50 Km / h in the case of the car lowering due to a failure of the suspension.

The kit is made by the control unit, wiring Y and the remote controller. It’a easy to install it takes 30-60 minutes and is completely reversible as it is not necessary to cut or solder any wires.

It is compatible with Discovery 3 Discovery 4 and Range Rover Sport.

On Discovery 4 and Range Rover Sport the controller can be installed in the cigarette lighter while on the Discovery 3 installation can also be done in the plastic cover located behind the parking brake button (available already drilled to house the controller).
 
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