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The type to cop a Range along with all the feature
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What's a good gear oil? I've read the haynes manual and it says hypoid gear oil, API GL4, MIL-L-2105, or better. I myself have no clue what any of those are, and have LRN-7591 gear oil, says Land Rover on it though. Anybody know if it would be bad?
 

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In the rover I change it so frequently that I just use valvoline in the vehicles it stays in for awhile I use royal purple synthetic
 

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If you are going by the oil rating, GL6 is now the newer, better oil.
If you want to do what is best, go to a synthetic as Rover now recommends, something in the 80W/90 range.
If you are running it hard, have lockers and want the maximum protection go to the newer 85W/140 oil by Mobil 1 or Royal Purple.
Mike
 

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Endangered Appalachian Mountian Squid
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If you are going by the oil rating, GL6 is now the newer, better oil.
If you want to do what is best, go to a synthetic as Rover now recommends, something in the 80W/90 range.
If you are running it hard, have lockers and want the maximum protection go to the newer 85W/140 oil by Mobil 1 or Royal Purple.
Mike
With the diffs totally drained what kind of volume is it going to take to refill to the approiate level?
 

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With the diffs totally drained what kind of volume is it going to take to refill to the approiate level?
The D1 axle capacities are probably not much different than D2s so this should give you a baseline to start from. Looks like 7 pints for both should do it.

From the RAVE CD 1999 to 2004

Front and Rear Axle:

Fill From Dry - 3.6 pt

Refill - 3.4 pt
 

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Endangered Appalachian Mountian Squid
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Thanks for the input... I was guessing on a qt and a half. I want to clean the diffs out and replace the fluids. I feel like I've mucked them up pretty good. It has been a very wet winter in north GA and I have been grille deep in clay soup too many times to count.At this point there's no way they're not full of dirt and water.
 

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1995 NAS Discovery -3.9L14CUX Manual Trans
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The D1 axle capacities are probably not much different than D2s so this should give you a baseline to start from. Looks like 7 pints for both should do it.

From the RAVE CD 1999 to 2004

Front and Rear Axle:

Fill From Dry - 3.6 pt

Refill - 3.4 pt
I know this is an old thread, but I figure it doesn't hurt to drop some accurate info in for those of us still getting these things stuck further in the woods... :)
Here is the page out of the official Discovery Workshop Manual that indicates all the lubricants, fluids and capacities:
Font Material property Parallel Number Document
 

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1995 NAS Discovery -3.9L14CUX Manual Trans
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My questions are:
- Are we still actually putting ATF in the R380? That seems like a recipe for a dry gearbox *unless your seals are less than a year old :-D
- Should I be using a good synthetic 90 EP? <really the key question of this post>
- Should I include friction modifiers/slippery stuff?

Synthetic oils I have used and generally have no complaints about.. for trucks and performance cars have included:
- Schaeffer Manufacturing (7.3 powerstroke motor oil)
- Mobile One
- Red Line
- Amsoil

Does anyone here have experience running proper gear oil in the R380? I have a worn out second gear synchro and am not in a mood to drop the tranny (again) to replace it. I am wondering if anyone has experienced extended or shortened synchro (or gear and bearing) life by using 80/90 EP (or thereabouts). I understand the switch to ATF was 100% to "improve fuel economy"... but I have to say, dropping this wagon from 12.5 miles per gallon down to a miserly 12.375mpg just doesn't seem to be worth the easy leakage, nor the increased wear.

If you have experience on this topic, please let us know:
what is a good gearbox oil, in 2022, to help the R380 [a] last longer, shift smoother, [c] leak less, [d] all the above :)

Also, it seems like a manual gearbox (and transfer case) is made for "slippery additives" due to the relatively low temperatures and pressures. Has anyone got good experience to share in this realm as well?

Here are the factory specs for lubricants / oils specifically for the NAS Disco 1:

Font Parallel Rectangle Pattern Number
 

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1995 NAS Discovery -3.9L14CUX Manual Trans
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No it is not worth the price imo. Just change it out often(which everyone should be doing anyway).
If anyone has the question of "why should I change diff oil often?" ... Just go with Water :p

True story of Rover malpractice (guilty):
I neglected changing out the diff oil after taking our '95 Disco 1 (NAS) well north of the US border for a couple years. While it had very few miles driven actually, less than 5K, it managed to collect a LOT of water (I blame the extreme temperature swings), so much that it caused a rust line on the ring gear. This rust line was...discovered... when I was teaching a newly minted teenager how to drive the stickshift equipped Disco. :p

Learn from my lazyness folks :)
 
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