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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having trouble with #1 bolt (all the way toward rear) on drivers side.

I don't want to sheer it or round off the bolt but cant get a good "angle" to confidently un torque it.

Any thoughts are appreciated.


-sobieski
 

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if you have the fan off then undo the transmission mount and lift the end of the gearbox. It should improve your angle to get at the rear head bolts. Dont do it with the fan still on as it will crash into the radiator surround. Just remember to drop the transmission again when you want to undo the upper bolts on the transmission to engine if you are separating the units :)
cheers
Barri
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Barri.

I'd like to explore other alternatives first - lifting the gearbox feels a little above my pay grade.

(Even though I'm always game for a promotion).

Any other thoughts?
The Rave implies that I should be able to do this w/o further disassembly.

Thanks much.


-sobieski
 

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Get a "stripped/rounded" bolt removal socket, put it on a 1/2 drive 1 inch extension, lightly tap with a hammer until seated, use a 1/2 breaker bar BUT
make certain you pull STRAIGHT ACROSS the intake area without letting it go off center, it will break loose then you can remove it easily.
This is likely the best reason to go back with a stud kit and not TTY. Good Luck

Doug
 

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Looks fugley! Are they all like that or just those 2?
What were your concerns before it came apart?
Looks a lot like mine dis a month ago (before complete rebuild with flanged liners)
Get the heads checked out including pressure tested. If they pass pressure testing and there is no excessive warp age you could be looking at a block issue (leaking cylinder liner) which spells complete rebuild or replace.
Just went through it on my 2002 (coolant loss and cylinder 4 misfire active thread)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have significant coolant loss off the back passenger side of the engine.

Like 4oz per day, literally running down the back of the passenger side of the engine.

Hoped it was the valley gasket.
Doesn't appear to be.

Now I hope it's the head or head gasket.

All the cylinders look pretty much the same - clean and smooth sides with carbon build up on the cylinder tops and around the ridges.

Just want to get you all's take.

Auto part Metal




-sobieski
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Head bolt replace.

Now knowing how tricky it was to get good leverage to get the rear-most head bolts off...

I am anticipating a similar situation on the replacement.

Any techniques or positive-outcomes from you all's experience is always greatly appreciated.




-sobieski
 

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Black cruddy pistons are exactly what you want to see in these situations, if they were clean it generally means something was cleaning them. ie radiator fluid :eek
 

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Pguerra x 2
if you are getting a coolant leak into a cylinder then it looks steam cleaned because it is :grin

not my picture but a broken head gasket letting coolant into the cylinder is usually very easy to see


Raising the back of the engine will help with the last bolt - its really not difficult - just loosen the tranny mount and away you go. lower and tighten up when finished.
Also remember if you do change to a stud set that if a stud seizes then you have to remove the engine to remove a head as you cannot lift the head over a stuck stud in the disco 2 - thats one reason why they went to TTY bolts. Also remember there are good and bad stud sets and a lot that are not the correct length.
good luck
Barri
 

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im having the exact same issue with the 2 back bolts to remove the head but im really not wanting to loosen the whole tranny mount since im doing all this out of my car port with no heater and no lift. i have tried with a big breaker par and diifent type of socket but i really couldnt find a way to get leverage and make sure the socket doesnt come of the bolt is there any big wrench or special tools because im really worn out from working on just these two bolts for like 3 hours
 
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