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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey gang! I’m about to tackle the dreaded head gasket job. What else should I replace while I’m in there?

I’m going to do Elring gaskets with ARP studs through a kit by Lucky 8, and also replace the fuel injectors and coil packs while I’m in there. Anything else?

Lifters, pushrods, etc etc. I want to do this right and do it once, so whatever can be replaced I’d like to do it now!
 

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When I had mine apart I replaced the lifters on top of the stuff you mentioned you are going to do. Lots of people say to do the cam at the same time though - I didn’t, which could be the reason it still ticks a little. If time and budget permits, I’d think about doing that.
In addition, you will have all of the accessories off, so if the alternator or power steering or water pump or tensioners or anything like that seems like it might’ve on it’s way out, replace those while you are in there.
The crank and cam position sensors are also a lot easier to get at while it’s all apart as well, so maybe consider replacing those too. It depends on how much money you want to spend and how much time you can spend working on it. Good luck with the head gaskets - it’s not hard, just very time consuming.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I had mine apart I replaced the lifters on top of the stuff you mentioned you are going to do. Lots of people say to do the cam at the same time though - I didn’t, which could be the reason it still ticks a little. If time and budget permits, I’d think about doing that.
In addition, you will have all of the accessories off, so if the alternator or power steering or water pump or tensioners or anything like that seems like it might’ve on it’s way out, replace those while you are in there.
The crank and cam position sensors are also a lot easier to get at while it’s all apart as well, so maybe consider replacing those too. It depends on how much money you want to spend and how much time you can spend working on it. Good luck with the head gaskets - it’s not hard, just very time consuming.
I’ve got 137k on the odometer right now, people really think the cams get worn out in that time?? Those should be good to go I would think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok lifter and pushrods are now on the list as well. Just did some quick research and it looks like they can wear out/get stuck and cause some noise. Might as well do them now since I’ll be in there. Again, I only want to do this once.
 

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Ok lifter and pushrods are now on the list as well. Just did some quick research and it looks like they can wear out/get stuck and cause some noise.
That’s what happened to mine, which is why I replaced them.
I’ve got 137k on the odometer right now, people really think the cams get worn out in that time?? Those should be good to go I would think.
You would think so, but people say that sometimes the new lifters are harder than the cam and will start to wear through it. I just did lifters on mine though, not the cam, so we’ll see how that pans out. My pushrods were fine (nice and straight) so I reused those.
Since you will have everything apart, it’s a good time to pull the front cover as well and replace the oil pump, water pump, front cover gasket, front main seal, and timing chain - my timing chain was completely worn out and stretched at only 118k miles. While all the accessories are off, it’s probably worth going on there and replacing all that stuff just to be sure.
Atlantic British has a really good video on this whole process that I followed and I haven’t had any problems since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That’s what happened to mine, which is why I replaced them.

You would think so, but people say that sometimes the new lifters are harder than the cam and will start to wear through it. I just did lifters on mine though, not the cam, so we’ll see how that pans out. My pushrods were fine (nice and straight) so I reused those.
Since you will have everything apart, it’s a good time to pull the front cover as well and replace the oil pump, water pump, front cover gasket, front main seal, and timing chain - my timing chain was completely worn out and stretched at only 118k miles. While all the accessories are off, it’s probably worth going on there and replacing all that stuff just to be sure.
Atlantic British has a really good video on this whole process that I followed and I haven’t had any problems since.
Lucky for me I already did that, chasing a leak in the timing cover. So all of that is already replaced!
 

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Agreed, going in is so monstrous a job that it’s worth doing it all, preventative or otherwise. One of my other D2 in the past started ticking at around 116k, and it was embarrassing as hell
 
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Agreed, going in is so monstrous a job that it’s worth doing it all, preventative or otherwise. One of my other D2 in the past started ticking at around 116k, and it was embarrassing as hell
Agreed 100%. It looks like you haven’t been taking care of it even though I spend way too much time, effort, and money making sure it’s working properly and well maintained. And the head gasket job is so huge that you might as well do as much as possible while you are in there.

If you haven’t done a radiator yet, there’s a lot more space to do it now, so maybe consider that as well since the cooling system will be drained. Same goes for radiator hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Agreed, going in is so monstrous a job that it’s worth doing it all, preventative or otherwise. One of my other D2 in the past started ticking at around 116k, and it was embarrassing as hell
Any idea where the ticking was coming from?
 

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I’ll let Rev speak for his own experience, but at least on my truck, the ticking was from a stick/collapsed lifter.
 
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I could never narrow my ticking down past the top end. I didn’t have time to do my own service then, and I dumped about 1800 into forensics and parts at my preferred indie, before embracing the suck
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I could never narrow my ticking down past the top end. I didn’t have time to do my own service then, and I dumped about 1800 into forensics and parts at my preferred indie, before embracing the suck
I’ve been reading the sticky thread on here and reading about how replacing the lifters and pushrods when the cam is already worn can be a dumb idea. I can’t imagine a cam shaft is worn out at 138k though. Any thoughts?
 

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I’ve been reading the sticky thread on here and reading about how replacing the lifters and pushrods when the cam is already worn can be a dumb idea. I can’t imagine a cam shaft is worn out at 138k though. Any thoughts?
It probably has some wear by this point, but nothing that would consider it “worn out” per se. I think the problems supposedly come when you replace the lifters without replacing the cam at the same time, as the new lifters can be made out of a harder metal and start to eat away at the relatively soft factory camshaft. It is worth noting that I replaced just the lifters in mine and got rid of most of my ticking as well as noticeably improved the performance of my engine. I’m just not sure how it will impact long term cam wear set up like that. I can’t really see how that kind of thing could happen, but people say it does, so who knows.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It probably has some wear by this point, but nothing that would consider it “worn out” per se. I think the problems supposedly come when you replace the lifters without replacing the cam at the same time, as the new lifters can be made out of a harder metal and start to eat away at the relatively soft factory camshaft. It is worth noting that I replaced just the lifters in mine and got rid of most of my ticking as well as noticeably improved the performance of my engine. I’m just not sure how it will impact long term cam wear set up like that. I can’t really see how that kind of thing could happen, but people say it does, so who knows.
I would tend to agree. I think there will be some wear, as would be on any engine with this many miles, but nothing worth replacing over. I would think replacing a cam would come around the 200k+ range. Like you said though, who knows.
 

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Also though, you would think a healthy motor wouldn’t develop a gnarly tick at just over 100k

thanks LR!
 

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"Since you will have everything apart, it’s a good time to pull the front cover as well and replace the oil pump, water pump with brass propels , front cover gasket, front main seal, and timing chain and is gears(very important)" I also changed the motor mounts too, very important ! I also did the other two mounts. Put back the lifters in their original holes if you don't change them, I didn't. Don't forget to clean the oil separator.Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
"Since you will have everything apart, it’s a good time to pull the front cover as well and replace the oil pump, water pump with brass propels , front cover gasket, front main seal, and timing chain and is gears(very important)" I also changed the motor mounts too, very important ! I also did the other two mounts. Put back the lifters in their original holes if you don't change them, I didn't. Don't forget to clean the oil separator.Have fun!
Already done in a previous job about a month ago. But thanks!!
 

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If you have SAI system, get rid of the cumbersome large metal SAI tube at the rear of the engine and replace it with some 3/4" flexible heat resistant tubing.
;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you have SAI system, get rid of the cumbersome large metal SAI tube at the rear of the engine and replace it with some 3/4" flexible heat resistant tubing.
;)
Any real reason to do it?
 
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