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If this has been answered before, just point me in the right direction.
Ive been logging some serious hours re Headgasket procedures for some time now prepping for preventative maintenance on my 04 Disco just turning over 130k

Several questions I believe I'm narrowing down to these final in which id appreciate any input on.

Would you have any problem using valley pan gasket in the AB kit? Ive read that there the carbon gasket may not be the one to use on these trucks?

Wouldn't be any reason not to have heads milled for flatness as they're off? even tho there is no signs of overheating? And with that said - no reason not to simply clean these heads, rather then source new reconditioned heads?

after reading everything I can on ARP studs vs the stretch kit bolts coming with AB gasket kit; Im inclined to not worry about using the ARP.. I just had an earful from an older rover tech explain I'd waste my time with them in this year block.

Looking for Kingsborne 8mm wires, iridium plugs & any other nuisance tips you'd suggest to pay attention to in a case wear I'm not breaking this apart aside for preventative maintenance.
I read Disco Mike mention lubing the four corners of the heads..

Again, thank you for your time fellas - Thanks to this forum & the rover community support, I will forever have a D2 in my driveway. cheers
 

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If you plan on getting the head decked, have the valves lapped too. If you get the head gasket kit from AB, it will some with new valve seals. Use them. Get the arp studs. Just do it. Easier in the long run and probably easier for installing


Mike Russell

Age 20

2003 discovery se

Lover of Rovers
 

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It is better to go with the head-studs for several reasons. But there is a cheaper set designed for a Buick, and another superceded set that cost 2x as much, but they were re-designed for the Rover V8. I have a set and soon as I get these original head bolts out, do what I'm going to do with the heads, and reassemble I can post my thoughts on the reassembly using the studs.

I have a 1/2-drive breaker bar/sockets along with a 3-foot long bar for leverage and I am still having trouble breaking these bolts; like its so tight the socket wants to move up on the head of the bolt. I'm going to remove the hood tonight and stand on top of the engine to find if I get a better angle. I broke the first bolt I attempted on DS against the firewall and then the 2nd I went to nearest the radiator came up on me a little bit and fudged the bolt ever so slightly so I'm paranoid about it now. I don't want to be that guy who rounds off a bolt then spends a whole evening shopping down an extractor socket and trying to get those suckers out. I didn't have any issues getting down to the head-bolts but I have slowed down considerably since reaching this point.

I also have several suggesting use of the "copper-coat" gasket spray which I will most likely apply to most of the gaskets. supposed to do hell of a job sealing, almost permanently so. I bought the gasket set from a import-parts wholesaler with no name brand, only the distributor packaging. Looking at the sales clerk computer, it said Victor Reinz but the name isn't labeled on the gaskets at all, such as I have seen surfing the web. I think its Oreillys website that has the photo of VR head gasket with "V..R.." typed on the face of it, but I don't know if that's Photo-shopped or if I have the old style gasket. I wanted Fel-Pro but you can't beat $130 for a D2 HG-kit picked-up locally. The photo shows whats included here. didn't get most of the upper-intake plenum gasketing like most online retailers provide.
 

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