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Heads up regarding using a non LR purge valve -- make sure it is "genuine" Hyundai
There are a lot of posts out there about using an "equivalent" hyundai spec'ed purge valve in place of the 10x (or more) costly LR genuine part.
Here's my experience once my LR D2 threw a P0441 code (purge valve).
In my haste to get it fixed, I looked up the Hyundai part, found that my local autozone had a one with the same product number in stock for $40 and ran down to the store and bought it (a Dorman as I recall)
After swapping it out, the code came right back and you could hear the valve clicking on and off several times a second occasionally (sort of sounded like a cricket).
So I ordered a "genuine" hyundai part from Amazon (it has the Hyndai logo embossed on it) for $24, swapped out the generic equivalent and no problems so far.
Anyhow just wanted to share that experience and hopefully save someone from having to do the swap out twice.
There are a lot of posts out there about using an "equivalent" hyundai spec'ed purge valve in place of the 10x (or more) costly LR genuine part.
Here's my experience once my LR D2 threw a P0441 code (purge valve).
In my haste to get it fixed, I looked up the Hyundai part, found that my local autozone had a one with the same product number in stock for $40 and ran down to the store and bought it (a Dorman as I recall)
After swapping it out, the code came right back and you could hear the valve clicking on and off several times a second occasionally (sort of sounded like a cricket).
So I ordered a "genuine" hyundai part from Amazon (it has the Hyndai logo embossed on it) for $24, swapped out the generic equivalent and no problems so far.
Anyhow just wanted to share that experience and hopefully save someone from having to do the swap out twice.