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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I live in Canada and lately we have had some very cold weather (-20). My LR3 is parked outside. In the last few days I have various problems which I would really appreciate some feedback on:

1) when started a few days ago I got the suspension fault error but yet the air bags did not sink to the bumper stops and all suspension modes still work. But the fault code just will not go away. I even tried the 'hard rest' trick (disconnecting the battery), but the fault is still there?

2) ever since the above suspension fault I noticed a lack of power. Still drove smooth but just didn't have the power it had (almost feels like a v6, not a v8).

3) now for the big problem. Yesterday after driving 20 minutes I noticed smoke coming from the engine which smelled like coolant. Looking under the hood there was no obvious leak from the rad, hoses, or anywhere and the coolant level was normal. Left it for a day and looked at it today again now that the weather is above freezing. Today it was VERY hard to start which I have never had since the 9 years I've owned this. Normally engine starts on first turn, but this time the engine had to crank 10+ times to start but within a second would idle to 100rpm, then back to 700rpm, then back down to 100rpm and eventually stall. After trying 5+ times (with the same symptons) it finally was able to keep idle normal. Though I notice when I hit the gas (in neutral), it would sometimes hesitate and I'd hear a pop from the exhaust. Kept it running for 15 minutes while looking under the hood with the plastic engine cover off. Again no signs of leak, but sure enough after running for about 20 minutes I started to see (and smell) coolant smoking from the hose that connects the engine to the thermostat housing. At that point I turned it off. While running I smelled the exhaust which smelled normal. I checked the oil which looked normal. The engine temp gauge was normal and not fluctuating. However the cabin heater is not working - it was blowing 100% cold air even after the truck was running for 10+ minutes. Could this all be due to a failed thermostat? I did replace it last year, but my understanding it that a bad thermostat caused the engine to overheat and the gauge to fluctuate, which I am not getting. Any ideas???


Thanks
 

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Blown Head Gaskets are not common on LR3's. But yes for D2's
Dave
 

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:clap:
 

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You smell coolant and see smoke. Look under waterpump and see if weephole is wet. Normal area for leak. Pressure test system, leave piece of cardboard under vehicle and watch for drops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Found the issue.

1st the rough starting and idling thing just went away after letting it run rough for 5 minutes. My mechanic buddy told me that was due to the weather here going from -25 to +6 within 24 hours, so the tank had condensation and the engine had to burn off this water. It now fires up 1st turn again and has power.

Next the coolant issue was found. Taking a closer look with the engine cover off, I found the T connector (with a bleeder on top) for a 1" diameter hose leaving the thermostat area broke. This now makes sense since it takes about 20 minutes for the thermostat to open at which time is leaks coolant right on the hot engine manifold and smokes. Today off to get a new T and bleed air out of the system.

Thanks for your advice.
 

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I just had my T bleeder replaced they get old brittle and break. Also maybe you need an engine block heater in those temps.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I replaced the t with a straight hose connector (so I no longer have the T). Fired it up and after about 30 minutes of running it started to steam/smoke fro the engine real bad. No actual coolant was leaking - the engine temp was normal - coolant reservoir is full. Let is cool for an hour and it fired up no prob and no issues. Ran it for about 10 minutes and it started to steam/smoke again (same symptoms). Seems like it is steaming from where the rad hose connects to the thermostat housing. Where they connect I see signs of dried pink fluid, and I also see this around the thermostat opening . Any ideas. Could the coolant in my rad perhaps be partially frozen. Though if it was and thus I have no fluid going through the system why would my engine temp show normal. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
After some more reading I think my issue is that I've got air in the system which needs to be bleed out. More reading suggests this is done from the bleeder on the expansion tank. I will attempt this over the weekend. My question is what is this t-bleeder for then (which I replaced with a straight connector)? I assume this is also a bleeder, but the bleeding procedures I've read do not mention this t-bleeder. So can someone please explain the proper procedure to bleed air from the system. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Tried again to bleed today and just couldn't make any progress. After taking a closer look I found a small hole in the thermostat housing, between where the top rad hose connects to the housing and where that section connects to the block.

Any ideas of how that failed, and the likely sequence of what failed first? Did the t bleeder fail first causing the overheating which caused the housing to fail, or do you think the housing failed first causing air to replace fluid and eventually causing the t bleeder to fail?? Just curious, being that I had two failures, and I suspect one lead to the other.

Oh, anyone have an estimate (in hrs) of how long it 'should' take to swap the entire housing? I bought a new one today from the stealership and asked them but they did not have this labour estimate in their book. Doing some reading, it sounds not too bad, but couldn't find an actual number of hours.

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FYI, I had the same issue this past weekend, bleeder broke, replaced it, then found that T-stat housing had also cracked, resulting in a huge coolant steam bath to the engine compartment.
T-stat and housing replaced at an indie British shop to the tune of $400 including a coolant flush/fill.
 

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The 3's (wear and tear) that should be replaced at 80K miles, Thermostat Housing (needs new Thermostat), T -bleeder (gets bridle and breaks), and Expansion Tank (sensor goes bad).
I had them all replaced ;)
Dave
 
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