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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
oh wise landy people i need your help! i am doing a top end refresh due to a hopefully leaky headgasket (fingers crossed it fixes my problem). I am stuck on a part of i can assume is the egr system. So the massive nut in the picture i assumes just threads off but it seems to want to rotate the pipe along with it. I could just be stuck from sitting that way for the last 160K miles or i might be doing it wrong. any ideas how this gets removed would be helpful.
 

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You are correct. The nut SHOULD turn independently. Probably just seized to the flange of the pipe. Spray some penetrating fluid in there and work the nut back and forth. Also might try some heat.
On the other end of the spectrum, I have seen cryogenic spray to freeze seized items to break them loose. Haven't tried this yet, but sounds interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the reply. used pb and they wont budge so i decided to leave them on. Looks like i can just leave them attached to the head and move forward. this gasket job is kickin my butt. i've done a handful of cars in the past but never a rover. making progress tho!
 

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thanks for the reply. used pb and they wont budge so i decided to leave them on. Looks like i can just leave them attached to the head and move forward. this gasket job is kickin my butt. i've done a handful of cars in the past but never a rover. making progress tho!
I don't have SAI. Can you actually remove the heads with the pipes attached?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
from where im at with the overhaul it doesn't look like they need to come out unless you are replacing the heads. you can either take the combi valve off of them or just pull all the other soft lines from them. if the machine shop needs them off then i will continue to take them off. it should be much easier to remove them on a work stand instead of under the hood. my next hurdle is the a/c bracket. i need to remove that to get the lower intake manifold off. once i get that off im set.
 

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Below is a photo of the junction pipe fitting that connects the head to the SAI pipes you are trying to remove. There is an 18mm square cut out just below the threads that secure your pipe to this junction. With the exhaust manifolds removed, you should be able to get an 18mm wrench up behind the SAI pipe so you can keep the junction in place while unbolting the pipe. If you're still having trouble use a propane torch to heat up the nut on the end of the SAI pipe. It won't take much to get the nut to loosen on the junction. Then removal will be pretty easy.
 

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I just went through this and if you are able get to the exhaust manifold and head bolts and break them free, then leave the canisters on. I ended up cutting mine off and replacing them because the head bolts were monsters to get off. This is very common. If the copper line (which is much thinner than a standard water line) starts to fold, there is little more that can be done. I was able to purchase the whole SAI system on Ebay for $100... that saved my bacon.
 
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