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· Registered
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dear All

Just registered in need of help, will most proberly become a more regular member.

Wondered if anyone could help me with a purchase i am considering. I have found a Land Rover Series II (a).This vehicle is on an A registration plate. Body work has been touched in but generally quite good on the outside. Inside the inner wheel arches at the fromt there appears to be a metal plate that is badly corroded, this looks like a bolt on item, could anyone confirm this.

The chassis from what i could see at the time appears to be like box sectioning and appears very solid
This is my first ever Land Rover purchase and am unsure what to look for, the interior looks very basic but from web sites visted this appears the norm. Could anyone point out any other items which i should be careful of.

Would like to thank everyone in advance for any threads posted.

· Series Moderator
506 Posts
Yes the bit you mention is a bolt on item nown as the mud (or ****) shield cheap and easy to replace.
As for buying your first landrover I would advise you take a local landrover enthusiast with you NOT a mechanic as most know very little about landrovers.landrovers can hide problems to the unknowing eye due to aluminium body work which can take the eye from other problems underneath,in my experience late series vehicles 1980-85 were on the whole poor due to poor quality steel however there are always exceptions as they can vary massively in condition but do take a local "expert" with you go to your local landrover club im sure they will help you choose wisely.I regularly go with people to look at motors and have saved some alot of time and effort

· Registered
222 Posts
Yep- that corroded plate is the mud shield which is not a big job to replace.

Series IIAs are about as good as Series LRs get when it comes to rustproofing (as onslow said, the late-era British Leyland ones were the worst).

The worst bits of the chassis rust-wise are:

1) The front spring hangers
2) Outriggers
3) The 'dumb irons' (where the front bumper bolts on and the front springs attach)
4) Bulkhead (sometimes called 'A-Posts'). The top part of the bulkhead, around the cooling vents, is hard to repair.

If the seller lets you, give everything a good tap with a small hammer. Don't worty too much about light surface rust- these things rust from the inside out.

The rest of the body is aluminium and shouldn't corrode. The odd dent and scrape is all part of the old Landy experience.

Check the condition of the front swivels- the big chrome balls at the ends of the front axle, inboard of the wheels. They should be rust-free and not pitted at all.

Check the leaf springs- they're tough but eventually break up as they rust- check none of the leaves have split. Replacements are cheap and easy to fit.

Engine- you don't say what it has so:

Petrol: Should be nice and smooth, and a good starter. They shouldn't smoke at all.

Diesel: Should start after 10-15 seconds of glow plugs from cold. Blue smoke when cold is OK, but should go when warm. A little black smoke on acceleration is normal, but not huge clouds.

Both: Usual checks- oil, leaks, radiator. Take the oil filler cap off with the engine running and check there isn't any blow-out coming from the engine- if there is, it's worn.

Remember the gearbox doesn't have synchromesh in the bottom gears. It should be quite quiet, with no shrill whining and no clonks and crashes. Chec it doesn't jump out of gear on the over-run.

The interior can't really wear out as its all painted metal. If it is a Station Wagon there should be a rooflining and floor trim.

Those are the main points to look for (quite a lot aren't there?).

As said before- the quality varies immensely between vehicles as they get changed around by various owners over the years. If in doubt, get in someone from a Landy club who knows these things inside out.

Good luck,


· Profesional Hunter
443 Posts
Mostly everything was coverd .

Also check the following:
Brakes - do you have to pump the brakes or do they take on the first press of the paddle, do the truck stay in a straight line when you brake?

Springs, do the truck lean to one side when standing on a flat tarmac?

Rust on the back part of the chassis, the crossmember rigt at the back is the easyest to spot rust in the chassis. If ouy can, remove the tow hitch and see if there is lose pieces of ruat laying in the chassis.

· Profesional Hunter
443 Posts
Kevin said:

Are you on the banks of the grey green greasy Limpopo or in town and just wishful thinking?
Still in town and just wishful thinking- no it is called creative dreaming or even the power of positive thinking, Still trying to win the Rat-Race!!

(Hell I need to get out and relax a bit!!!)
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