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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just replaced my thermostat with a oem replacement because my lower rad hose does not get hot. I held the resevoir on the battery cover, opened the bleeder and reinstalled it once coolant started pouring out.

Installed the resevoir back into it's place and installed the cap, turned the fan speed to low and set my mode to blow on the windshield. Let idle for probably an hour. All kinds of heat, every hose is boiling hot except for the lower rad hose and that half of the radiator. This is the reason why I replaced the thermostat. I flushed the rad before I did any of this and did not find any junk or grud at all. Nice and clean. So how does the coolant flow through the thermostat? I get the water bubble sound through the heater core, checked and found no leak at all, the coolant is always at it's proper level and I can run this beast for days and not have it overheat, which I guess is pretty rare after searching around on forums.
 

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disco biscuit
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It flows out the bottom of motor up through the radiator then through the thermostat. So it don't over heat? It usually helps to warm it up good...even though the gauge says norm doesn't mean its hot enough to open the thermo. Drive it around...let it fully cool then refill. You can't fill it with the thermostat open which is what really makes it harder to get the air out of a closed system...its hard to get it all out first time.

I'm not real sure this is your problem. So it never and still won't overheat? What, did you just decide to put your hand on it one day? And if there's no problem, what's the problem? Did it make bubbling sound behind the dash before the new thermostat? Is there any difference at all in it compared to before the thermo..and again why'd you change it. I had air in mine a couple times. I never heard bubbling. My gauge went some over norm but didn't overheat... then after cooling I refilled and everything's good. Are you sure its not a head gasket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cool thanks for the quick info, so looking at the pic, it seems my cooling system in normal. I just need to get the damn air out of it. The lower rad hose does not get super hot or even hot but warm from the pic seems normal.

I'll try bleeding it a few more times. Also anyone have a pic of the cabin filter. I found it under the wiper cowling but it seems I can see straight into the blow motor, I'd like to know what parts I'm missing
 

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certified idiot
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Its straight physics - the hot water rises so you put the hot water in the top of the radiator and as it cools it drops to the bottom and comes out to feed the engine. The top of the radiator should be hot and the bottom cool any vehicle anywhere in the world :)

Try parking your landy pointing uphill and bleed it again to get the air bubbles out.
cheers
Barri
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I guess I'm used to vehicles with internal thermostats. Say any honda, the upper and lower rad hoses are hot, if the bottom one is cold it, it means there is something wrong with your thermostat or a seriously plugged rad.
 

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I wouldn't, Do you have the water fall sound behind the dash, where is you coolant level prior to a cold start and do you have a scanner so you can read the actual temp at idle and while driving?
Also our D2 radiators can not be flushed with any improvement. If you are at 100,000 miles plus and your are having over heat issues, it is time to replace the old radiator which will most likely be about 40% plugged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I do have the water fall sound, I have 132,000miles and the rad has been replaced about 6 months ago with an oem replacement. I check the level every other day cold and it drops maybe 1/4 inch. I've never topped it up before. Also my rover is not over heating at all. I can drive for hours(with enough gas) in traffic on the highway, up hills and still the temp gauge stays at half.

I going to try bleeding it again tonight and hook up the scanner we have here and see what actual temps are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the help guys, downloaded the rave manual and bled the cooling system and read the description and operation of the cooling system, pretty good info. The lower rad hose does not get hot which is normal for this type of cooling system.

I also hooked up a scanner and drove home so I can see the actual temp readings. So it was about -17 outside, in traffic at a stand still the temp got up to 216, t-stat fully opens at 204 degrees. Is this high? It did not get any hotter and once I started slowly driving again it goes between 205 and 210. I drove in traffic on and off for an hour or so.

Either way the previous owner ended up with a new short block due to the oil pump issue, replaced it himself, half the hoses and vacuum pipes are routed wrong, the coil packs are just flopping around, etc. So if his work is as good as this who knows what shitty head gaskets he used or even torqued them down properly. I picked up a complete set of gaskets from Atlantic British that I'm going to install on saturday, just for piece of mind really. I don't want to go on a long trip and have this beast overheat.
 
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