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Discussion Starter #1
I shipped my D2 to our beach house in the Caribbean in 2018, its been our trusty beach truck there. We fly back and fourth from NYC to the Caribbean every 2 to 2 months and a week or so, and it has started right up without any issues. (parked for 2 months and 10 days).
How long is the longest I can leave the D2 parked before the battery dies? 2 months 1/2 or 3 months?
91713

Thanks,
Dave
 

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If you’re dealing with zero drains and temperate climate, 2-3 mo is probably max before you lose cranking power. This is all dependent upon the quality of the battery though.

a trickle charger (if possible) would be ideal, followed by a quick disconnect for the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have been afraid to disconnect the battery due to when I reconnect the battery back the alarm will lock it up and not let it start. I have heard of this happening.
Dave
 

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I have been afraid to disconnect the battery due to when I reconnect the battery back the alarm will lock it up and not let it start. I have heard of this happening.
Dave
That's not an issue as long as the vehicle was unlocked(alarm disarmed) before the battery was disconnected... it gets immobilised if you disconnect then reconnect the battery while it's locked/alarm armed
 

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A solar maintainer is cheap and just clamps onto the battery connections, like jumper cables. You don't have to disconnect anything and it just barely trickles juice into the battery. It'll keep the battery voltage up.
 

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I am assuming that the vehicle is stored outdoors, and that a trickle charger isn’t viable because it’s unattended. The same mischief is possibly with any external device that has leads directly to the battery.

I do believe that if you disarm the alarm, then disconnect the battery, then manually lock the doors you’d be ok. Or you could keep a jump box handy (-: or you could install a second battery
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The D2 is parked in a indoor car port connected to the house and I put a cover over it so its protected from the rays that hit the tail gate in the morning. Last year I tried a trickle charger when I was away for 3 months. I started it when I returned and I got a check engine light for an alarm code P1668 (Anti Theft Alarm Serial Link). I cleared the code and drove it immediately, it was fine, but it spooked me. I do not want it to get immobilize. So I have not been using the trickle charger, luckily I have been able to fly down every 2 months and 10 days or so. But I need to find a good solution or disconnecting the alarm immobilizer.
 

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Unfortunately the immobilizer isn’t a device that can be disabled or removed per se. the immobilization is the result of several components working in concert to allow (or disallow) starting of the vehicle. That is of course, my understanding of the vehicle, and my assertion may stand to be corrected cough*fery*cough

You may consider a secondary battery with an isolator/regulator?
 

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The D2 is parked in a indoor car port connected to the house and I put a cover over it so its protected from the rays that hit the tail gate in the morning. Last year I tried a trickle charger when I was away for 3 months. I started it when I returned and I got a check engine light for an alarm code P1668 (Anti Theft Alarm Serial Link). I cleared the code and drove it immediately, it was fine, but it spooked me. I do not want it to get immobilize. So I have not been using the trickle charger, luckily I have been able to fly down every 2 months and 10 days or so. But I need to find a good solution or disconnecting the alarm immobilizer.
That fault code was the result of voltage drop while cranking, as he battery was weak the voltage dropped below 10V before it started then the security code sent by the BCU was lost for a second but recovered once the alternator kicked in... the only way you can disable the alarm/immobiliser is with dedicated tester whch has alarm settings functions. Though even if you immobilise it just disconnect the battery, charge it and reconnect it and the vehicle will be remobilised once you unlock with the fob and if the fob fails then wih he EKA code .... as long as you know how it works the immobiliser should not scare you at all as long as here are no faults present.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks guys.
Luckily its indoors and the temps are 85F during the day and 70F at night, so no drains via the sun hitting it or cold nights. The temps help here.

If I want to use the trickle charger again without disconnecting the battery.
What is the best way to use a trickle charger on a D2?
Example, While battery is connected to D2, connect one trickle gator clip on the positive and the other on the negative? Or the negative trickle gator clip on a ground near by a metal screw, etc? Leave hood 1/4 open for trickle cables. Close all doors manually through the inside. Basically leaving one door unlocked. If I use the key from the outside to lock it the alarm will be activated, so close all doors manually via the inside, but one, leaving one door unlocked, shut that door and wait till indoor lights go off, and walk away? Just trying to figure out a simple solution.
Thanks,
Dave
 

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IMO You are overcomplicating a simple thing...as long as your fob is in working order dont be sterssed about the alarm cos all you have to do is to unlock with the fob... and i strongly discourage you to let a trickle charger connected to a vehicle which is left unsupervised for long time... the trickle charger were not conceived o maintain batteries connected to the vehicle cos the vehicle's circuits will mix up the charger's managemet system and it will no shut off when necessary... The simple hing is to disconnect the battery with vehicle unlocked, lock it manually then when you get back to it after a long time put a charger on the battery for few hours before you reconnect it and in the unlikely case that he alarm goes off give an unlock command with the fob
 
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