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Okay I figured it out. There are 4 triangular mounting points inside each of the wheel areas. It looks like the body is mounted to the top of them. Mine each had an extra, unused hole pre-drilled into them to fit the stock running board / side step mounting brackets. I was wondering whether the black plastic trim which runs under the doors needed to be removed to fit the boards, but thankfully they didn't. Once I figured out where the brackets mounted it was all very easy. I had to pickup a set of deep sockets. Fr this installation I believe it was 1/2" and 3/8" needed. The top of the bolt where the body mounts to the triangular mounts would spin, so I had to get a wrench up there to hold them, but that was the hardest part of the installation.

First things first: you need to understand how the brackets attach to the vehicle before beginning. The trick here is to lay down a running board on the floor where it will mount on the vehicle. Line up the front and rear. Look under the car. Directly above each protruding running board arm there will be a large triangular steel bracket on the vehicle. There is one bolt on each of these toward the outside of the vehicle which has a big rubber bushing sandwiched in between the bracket and the vehicle frame. The nut for this bolt is at the bottom. Toward the inside of that bracket there (might) be a pre-drilled hole that is empty. If not, you will (somehow) have to mark and drill it. This is the second and final point where the running board bracket mounts onto this existing vehicle bracket. Play with the 4 brackets until you see how it fits. This is hard to explain in text, but when you find it you will know. The key is that the 2 inline holes on the running board bracket are where the running boards mount to them—so these should always be at the bottom of this bracket once mounted.

Here are the steps I took:

1) locate the 4 triangular body mounting brackets - two behind the front wheels and two before the rear wheels, all 4 are immediately at the outside of the body, under the doors.
2) one corner at a time (I don't know if these are the only 4 points where the body is attached to the frame, and I didn't want to find out!), use a deep-socket 3/8" and remove the existing bolt attaching the body to the frame. Use a 3/8" wrench to hold the top of the bolt still - it spun for me. I only had a crescent wrench and that was a big pain in the butt.
3) attach the appropriate bracket to the pre-drilled hole and leave it loose, letting the bracket hang (this is a 1/2" bolt/nut)
4) swing the bracket up so the first nut you just removed goes into the hole on the (only) tab on the bracket
5) tighten both bolts on the bracket down to a finished tightness
6) you should now have a fixed bracket with the two holes inline horizontally at the bottom of the bracket
7) do the same for the opposite end of the vehicle (front and back are the same procedure)
8) you should now have both front & rear brackets on one side of the car installed
9) tilt up the running board so that you can attach the inside-most mounting holes on the running board arms to the inside-most holes on the (now mounted) running board brackets. Note that the running board mounting arms sit INSIDE the mounting brackets, and there is a rubber grommet outside the holes on the running board arms, so it can be tricky to get these holes aligned because these grommets get in the way. I used a flat head screwdriver to pry open the brackets a bit.
10) fit the mounting bolt loosely into the inside-most holes on the mounting brackets at the front & rear.
11) you should now be able to swing the running board up and down as it pivots on the two installed bolts. If not, you've either done them up too tightly or a rubber grommet is getting in the way.
12) fix the remaining two bolts through the bracket and into the running board arm. Tighten all appropriately
13) repeat for side #2


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