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There is no assertion here that the timing chain play is adjustable...

the question is “how stretched is too stretched and requires replacement?”

at any rate, it’s not terribly expensive if you’re doing it, and if you’re already in there... get it done lol
 

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There is no assertion here that the timing chain play is adjustable...

the question is “how stretched is too stretched and requires replacement?”

at any rate, it’s not terribly expensive if you’re doing it, and if you’re already in there... get it done lol
I guess I missed that part...
I’m gonna go out on a limb and guess it’s stretched enough then....
And I agree if your at the point your looking at it... change it...
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Here is the video of the play in the chain.
I am replacing it. I guess my question is more about my vacuum reading stating late valve timing and if the chain is too stretched, could that cause that reading?
Thanks all.
 

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Without regard to where any individual may draw the line of “too much play,” that is too much play!!!

A stretched chain can definitely retard the timing leaving the intake valve slightly ajar during the compression phase, reducing your compression and creating the loss of (low end) power you were lamenting when you started this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Well, I think I give up.
After 2 years and still no good runner
As much as I love the looks of these vehicles, I can't stomach it anymore.

Here is what I have done and what is going on
before tear down
Passenger bank compression read 95 91 100 115
Thing I did
replaced timing chain
replaced rings
Honed cylinders
Replaced head gaskets and head bolts
Resurfaced heads
Lapped the valves.
New valley pan

Before tear down, the car started right up.
I now have to pump and pump and pump the pedal to get it to start
It sounds amazing. Better than ever.
Put it into gear and it dies
I was eventually able to take it for a test drive and there is no power whatsoever. Maybe 60 seconds to get to 60 mph(prob longer)
Had to come to a stop sign. It died and took a couple minutes to restart

Finally got it home
Compression on same bank now 95 90 92 110

I am at a total loss
 

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Have you tried fussing with the timing?

I know it’s frustrating and I wish I was better equipped to advise, but you’re so close and when it’s dialed you’ll have a masterpiece!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Would timing change the compression?
I have it timed about 8BTDC
I am going to look it all over tomorrow. Would love any insight or thing to check on.
I know that the new rings need to seat, but I am not sure how long that takes.
I will hook up vacuum gauge and see what it reads.
Check fuel pressure as well.
I have spent hundreds and hundreds of hours on this vehicle. Plus quite a bit of money. Unfortunately its prob worth nothing if it doesn't run
Another crappy part is I don't trust any mechanic near me
 

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I am lucky to have a mechanic I trust (and who’s also willing to trade labor!) for the jobs I don’t want to (or can’t) do.

if your timing is too far advanced or retarded, you can have valves slightly open during compression. The fact that your changes in compression are fairly uniform between 1-2 and 3-4 makes me ask.
 

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Don't give up. If you are at that point, it might be the time to search out a real LR mechanic and let him have a look. Could get you from 95% to 100% there and could even be a timing tweak or something else small.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Thank you guys for the encouragement to keep going on this.
Here's the latest-
I messed with the timing. It now fires up easily and no more hesitation.
The Rover is shifting from 1st to 2nd really early so I don't really get a chance to get up to speed. Almost like I am starting in 2nd. It shifts at 2000 RPMs
Also, if I wanted to pass someone. I would have to manually downshift. When I am 40-60mph or so and I floor it, it does not automatically downshift.
I still feel like I do not have much power, but al least it is driveable.
Funny thing. I put in a different engine a few weeks ago and the EFI light had gone away. Once I put this engine back in, the EFI light immediately came back on. I am using the same parts besides the block. I am confused on that.

Thanks again all
 

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Considering that your compression readings on 1-2 and 3-4 are slightly askew, you may consider a valve alignment. It sounds like you’ve found the sweet spot where your valves are as closed as possible at combustion, but there may be room to tighten that up for more uniform compression and power.

as far as the EFI light, that’s peculiar indeed. Hopefully @sierrafery can chime in with some electrical insight on that.

do you notice any difference in shifting with “sport” mode enabled? Also, are there any adaptations to reset and relearn regarding the transmission?


I messed with the timing. It now fires up easily and no more hesitation.
that’s great news BTW!
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I am going to keep testing things before I pull the heads apart. (most likely car will be gone if I have to rip apart again)
My vacuum reads about 11-12
I don't believe there is a sport mode.
 

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Sorry, my brain sometimes has trouble moving from one thread to another and I was thinking D2..
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Did a little more testing today.
At 10 MPH and approx 2000 RPMs it shifts into 2nd. Shifts into 3rd around 50 (3200 RPMs), and shifts into 4th around 60 0-60 is approx 35 seconds

As far as power is concerned, you may be right that the valves are not closed however I did clean and lap the valves and it really looked they has a good seal.

I feel I need to reiterate that I do have slightly oversized tires and small lift.(pic - Sorry shes dirty) I know that will rob me of power, but I still feel like it should not be that bad.
I have a set of smaller tires on a set of 5 spokes. I may try to install them and see what I find.
20200310_143603_resized.jpg
 

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Do try that, if at least for a frame of reference

I went up 15% in diameter over stock and 20% in width, and both acceleration power and braking loss are significant.

maybe somebody else with a classic can record their shifts, or better yet enlighten us. I for one have no real precise understanding of what input the car uses to decide to shift /-:

did you find anything with fuel delivery? When you said you used the same parts except the block, does that mean that the wiring harness, injectors, sensors etc have been the same with both engines?
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I have not checked fuel pressure yet. I am going to borrow a buddy's tool that he made so that testing it while driving is possible.

Everything is transferred over.
The only things different are the block, heads, intake.
I'm using same sensors, wiring, alt, injectors, transmission, pulley's, hoses, belts, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I also have a Pertronix D175510 Flame thrower distributor.
It gets average reviews.
Also the Flame thrower 40011 Coil

Maybe this is problem??

Sorry, this is such a long thread. I am just trying to let all know what I have and issues I am having.
Working on setting an appointment with an import auto mechanic. He is very good although the last time I spoke with him about the Rover, he said to throw it away
 

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The changing of gears is easy to fix, just adjust the lockdown cable located on the throttle body next to the throttle cable. Just wind it out and make the exposed inner cable cable longer.

The vacuum reading you are getting is way too low. Easiest is to check for vacuum leaks from the various vacuum hoses attached to the plenum. Other than that it would have to be bad valve timing or something internal.

How are you setting your timing. Have you made sure the mechanical advance and vacuum advance are working.
 

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That’s good advice p76rangie. I wish I was better learned about engines to help.
he said to throw it away
For what it’s worth, my mechanic tells me that about every car I bring him (Land Rover or jaguar).
 
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