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Discussion Starter #61
Thanks for the replies.
I am setting my timing at TDC having my rotor point directly at #1 spark plug wire.
All wires are routed correctly.
Timing light set at approx 11BTDC seems to run best.
Not sure how to test mechanical and vacuum advance.
How do I get late valve timing? If you see the video, the point and the dot line up.
I did find a small vacuum leak at the vacuum bulb near the drivers headlight. Didn't change how it ran
I sprayed ether(starting fluid) on all other vacuum lines and saw no change in idle speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I also bought these injectors a couple years ago.
You think I just got cheap crap and they may not be producing properly?
$100 for 8 injectors

 

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You check the mechanical advance by disconnecting the vacuum advance and giving it a rev. The timing light should show it going to the high 20's BTDC. To check the vacuum advance just such on a hose connected to it and see if the timing advances and with you tongue blocking the end of the hose make sure that it stays advanced.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Test results (if I did right)

The BTDC is actually at 9 and not 11. I was wrong there.
When I remove the vacuum hose and rev the engine, the timing mark does not really move. Stays pretty spot on.
When I suck on the hose (while running), it goes to 16BTDC
 

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Discussion Starter #65
For vacuum advance
How high of PRMs should I rev it to?
I just did it again when it warmed up a little more.
When I get to higher revs, it starts to move
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Couple things to add.
When car is not running, I suck on the hose and hold my tongue on the hole and it holds a vacuum.

Don't know if this could be something.
I do not and have not used any sort of plenum gasket or gasket maker.
None of the engines have had one.
Is this a possible problem?
 

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hopefully @p76rangie, @mikieman, etc can chime in, i don't know my elbow from my asshole when it comes to vacuum
 

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It appears that your vacuum advance is working. It seems that your mechanical advance is not. This is a usual problem with Land Rover distributors. The shaft in the distributor is held in place by a plastic clip located under the rotor button. It gets fragile over time. The rotor button is often hard to get off and people pull too hard on it and break the plastic clip. This allows the outer shaft to be lifted up when pulling on the rotor button. This disengages the springs that control the advance down the bottom of the distributor, under the plate in the top of the distributor. You need to strip down the top of the distributor and connect the springs back up. You do not have to remove the distributor to do this.

The plenum has no gasket, but you need to use some sealing compound on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Thank you so much.
I will have a look at it.
It is not an original dist. It is Pertronix version
 

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I have to say p76Rangie is who I would consider one of the most knowledgeable posters on this forum...
And for sure a little crazy... :)...
I’d go with it...
 

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hear hear
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Wanted to share what I found.
Get an opinion before I put all back together.
I pulled it apart. Everything looks good (to me)
Springs are all connected
There was some plastic in the bottom and a little bit of metal flakes. I believe it to be from the cap.
Before I put all back together and replace the cap, is there something I should be checking? 20200320_112303_resized.jpg
20200320_112518_resized.jpg 20200320_112625_resized.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #74
I "think" the mech adv is working.
It springs and moves freely
The dizzy cap had some broken plastic around the terminals, but the terminals are still real tight in the cap.
The plastic pieces were not wedged in anywhere.
I think I may not have revved the engine enough when testing. I was doing it by hand and with the timing light at same time.
How high in RPS should I go to get it to move up to the 20s? Like I said, it kinda started to move as I got in a little higher rpms, but it was not real high to my ear. I will have someone in the car and go to whatever RPS you say I should.
 

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A simple test to check the vacuum
Advance. It is usually the vacuum chamber that fails on the advance.
Take the vacuum hose or a small piece of hose and suck on it connected to the advance chamber ... you will be able to tell if is working..
If working it will pull to vacuum
Or just pull air..
In the old days....all vehicles had a distributor with a vacuum advance...
I’m from those days..,:)
 

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The vacuum advance does very little for power. It is something that only really does anything at cruise and it is for fuel economy rather than power.
The mechanical advance should start moving around 1,000 and reach its maximum advance up around 3,500 rpm. It should add 20 to 25 degrees of further advance at its maximum, so a total of around the mid 30's BTDC including your initial timing setting. The vacuum advance should increase the timing by a further 10 to 15 degrees.
 

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This might help you understand what you should be seeing for the mechanical advance. The differences in the graphs is largely due to the different starting point (static timing).
91864
 

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Discussion Starter #78
UGH
after taking apart and now putting all back together, I get no spark
 

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Discussion Starter #79
False alarm. The magnet under the rotor just had to be spun slightly to drop down a hair more.

With the work that has been done and should be plenty of time and miles for the rings to seat, My compression averages around 90.
I'm at a loss.
I appreciate all the help. Believe me, I cannot tell you guys how much I appreciate it.
Not sure I can do it anymore
 

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Pull the plugs and put a little bit of oil in the cylinder and then do your compression test. It will tell you if it is the rings or not if the compression increases. Did you have the motor rebored or just put in new rings. If it was just new rings with a hone, it could take a long time for the rings to seal properly. The bore will wear in a slight oval shape. Modern rings are made from chrome moly, which is a very hard metal. They last a lot longer but will not wear easily into a non-round bore. That is why I only use the old style rings if I am not reboring the motor. They will wear to shape a lot quicker.
 
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