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Discussion Starter #81
OK
I did a hone and new rings.
I have approx 200 miles on the new rings.
Prob not long enough, but do you think it will improve that many points after averaging 90 per cylinder?
 

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OK
I did a hone and new rings.
I have approx 200 miles on the new rings.
Prob not long enough, but do you think it will improve that many points after averaging 90 per cylinder?
I do not know how out of round your bore was or whether the rings were chrome moly or steel. Putting a little oil down the bore may help you determine whether it is the rings or not and whether the compression may improve over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Update on some info on the tests I just ran and some other info.

Took her for a good drive to heat er up and get everything moving.(30 mins)
Compression test average 100
Went to do a leak down test. Had some issues not having the right air adapters. Finally got the right pieces and did the test. (engine had cooled down considerably but not cold)
All ran about 15-17 cylinder leakage. The leakage was passed the rings as I could hear nothing anywhere but when I pulled the oil filler cap.
Put everything back together and then forgot that I was going to try compression with oil in cylinder. I only pulled 1 plug to do the test as I was just trying to see the difference.
I got a reading of 90. Put some oil in cylinder and then got a reading of 110.

Are my rings not seated?
Are my cylinders too worn?
Could I have honed the cylinders wrong? (I feel I did exactly as told, but...)

Finally, when I drive it and shift from 1 up to D manually, I seem to get a boost of power just after 2000 RMPs in 1st.

There definitely is something wrong still or.... maybe it is what it is.
 

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It appears that you have worked out what you issue is. Not much you can do about it now. You cannot rebore these motors. The do not make oversize pistons for them due to the walls being very thin. As I posted previously, I would have used steel rings instead of chrome moly as they will wear in quicker. Did you make sure that the openings in the rings were all offset and not lined up with each other. There is probably not a lot you can do now without rebuilding the motor.
Did you use break-in oil in the motor after rebuilding it. It is effectively an old with no zinc r other additives in it, so it allows a bit more wear. You should run it for a 1,000 to 1,500 miles.
The other options are pulling the heads off and using something like this Total Seal Quick Seat Powder - Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk or in the older days (my early days) they would use Bon Ami, so you can do a search on that in regards to rings.

Have you determined that your mechanical ignition timing is working correctly yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #86
I jst got the rings I could get. I did not realize there were different types.
I used Rotella T4 15-40
Should I change and put in something more conventional? If so, please help me with the best break in oil
I feel I need to run the crap out of the engine as I believe it will seal eventually.

I had a thought that the transmission or torque converter may be tired as well. I did a Stall Spped test (for approx 2-3 seconds as I don't want to mess something up) and I got 1500 RPMs. What should these numbers be? If you know.
 
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